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My new truck

With drilled/ slotted rotors: if you are on road all the time they can help with brake fade yes. But if you are in the dirt and mud- it gets trapped in the holes and slots getting wiped around the rotor by the pad and can ruin a set in a day. Care to ask how I learned? Haha- oh wait- nope still not funny yet, those were expensive.

On the gmt400 in the fleet we found factory rotors were the best back then. Has there been aftermarket brands to surpass them since?
 
jrsavoie said:
I have been wanting to do the GMT800 conversion for many years
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Get it done! Not just the benefit of the improved brakes, but also the better bearing arrangement. Rotors just lay on over the bearings. Don't need to pull off the bearings and pound out wheel studs to get the rotors off. Oh and the vehicles stop as they should and the pads last way longer.
 
Big T said:
Get it done! Not just the benefit of the improved brakes, but also the better bearing arrangement. Rotors just lay on over the bearings. Don't need to pull off the bearings and pound out wheel studs to get the rotors off. Oh and the vehicles stop as they should and the pads last way longer.
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Is there a detailed list of all that is needed for this somewhere?
 
jrsavoie said:
I didn't find anything yet.

Needs to be a sticky

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/search/329509/?q=GMT800&o=date&c[user][0]=3243
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Start with this thread:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/gmt-800-brake-conversion-silverado-hd-2500.45047/

Then this one covers the options for the tie rod ends:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...n-tie-rod-discussion.45012/page-2#post-514348

I have done this conversion on the two trucks in my signature and tried each option for the tie rod ends. The option using the threaded rod to adapt the GMT 800 tie rod end allows you to avoid reaming the steering knuckle. However, this option really needs a lock nut on the tie rod connecting side to cinch it down, else you could end up with some play there. The option that requires reaming the knuckle for the tie rod end is not that hard and works well. I would go that route if I did it again.

Reaming the knuckles for ball joint is sort of a PITA. The angle of attack for the lower is from inside the span of the knuckle. I used an angle drill to get that done. The top one is attacked from the outside and I used a drill press.

Use a ball joint to measure how much to ream. Despite what was written, the clearance for the lower is not determined by how much you ream. It's the lower control arm that limits it and stops it from hitting the CV axle hub. So don't over ream. When you get the bottom of the threads to show, stop there. I ended up over reaming them and had to use washers to suck up space. It works, but could be cleaner.
 
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Big T said:
Start with this thread:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/gmt-800-brake-conversion-silverado-hd-2500.45047/

Then this one covers the options for the tie rod ends:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...n-tie-rod-discussion.45012/page-2#post-514348

I have done this conversion on the two trucks in my signature and tried each option for the tie rod ends. The option using the threaded rod to adapt the GMT 800 tie rod end allows you to avoid reaming the steering knuckle. However, this option really needs a lock nut on the tie rod connecting side to cinch it down, else you could end up with some play there. The option that requires reaming the knuckle for the tie rod end is not that hard and works well. I would go that route if I did it again.

Reaming the knuckles for ball joint is sort of a PITA. The angle of attack for the lower is from inside the span of the knuckle. I used an angle drill to get that done. The top one is attacked from the outside and I used a drill press.

Use a ball joint to measure how much to ream. Despite what was written, the clearance for the lower is not determined by how much you ream. It's the lower control arm that limits it and stops it from hitting the CV axle hub. So don't over ream. When you get the bottom of the threads to show, stop there. I ended up over reaming them and had to use washers to suck up space. It works, but could be cleaner.
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Sweet! Thanks Big T!
 
Big T said:
Please feel free to PM me as you progress on this. I have a pretty good memory.
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I appreciate that. Even more, I appreciate and envy your memory. : )>
I won't likely be able to get to it any time soon, unfortunately, but it is a major project that I really want to get done at some time.
It'll have to wait till I get my shop built. : )>
 
So I had to replace the glow plugs relay today. I plugged it in f ok r an hour or so and tried to start it but it didn't even sputter. It had been getting incrementally harder to start I was leaning towards glow plugs themselves but after checking continuously on a couple I decided to check for power and nada so I got a new relay and it fired right up even with the batteries a bit low.
 
NVW said:
I thought Bilstein was the way to go, I have never used them myself.
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Hmmm.. Me too. I've had mine on for a couple years and they've been great.
Bad batch?

Do you know the part numbers ak? If I can dig them up, I'd like to compare them to mine.
 
I thought they were too proud of them and opted for good off road Gabriels. They work just fine. But the GMT800 may be a different breed than 400s for suspension
 
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The only shock I have actually seen fail as it happened was on a vehicle that was overloaded and hit a bump hard and it was too much for the shock to absorb and blew out the seal. It was an air shock and it puked the oil with a burst action.

I wonder if the cold has any worsening effect on oil flow in the shock that most wouldn't see. I wonder if you would do better with an offroad shock meant to absorb big impacts. I haven't seen any bleeding on my shocks.
 
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