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My new truck

Big T

Well-Known Member
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Fullerton, CA
Ya know, something I do different than most when changing the ip is DONT remove the lines from the ip.

Pop the intake off.
Undo the nuts from injectors and wiggle free. Undo the 2 nuts (each side) on the valve covers that the lines mount to.
Then oil fill and 3 bolts inside, 3 adjuster nuts that are fun to reach, and wiggle the ip free of the gasket. Pull the ip with the 8 legs so your holding a big metal spider. Then you can reach all line nuts so easily.

If you put it on cardboard box, sharpie exactly where the injector nuts are. it goes back together beautifully. Obviously the bottom 2 are the hardest, so mark them the most accurate and pay most attention when assembling to the new ip.

One guy in the shop copied my method, but added sandwiching the lines innthe valley on each side with paint stir sticks and safety wire to ensure nothing could move.

I probably done 30-35 ips that way and only once had to loosen and adjust a couple lines- but never the hard ones.

I wouldn’t have thought mentioning this if not having just put my “spider” on a shelf last night pulling my engine apart.
I like this. Will use it on our upcoming IP replacement.

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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So pretty much got it back together. Drilled a hole in the core support for the drain tube to go into. The champion radiator is a good looking rad albeit a little too universal. There wasn't really much going into the rubber brackets on the bottom but the bottom is better than the top. I ended up bending the top brackets down a bit to get some tension on things. Other than that the only other thing is the metal tube going to the reservoir was one size too small. I ended up taking a piece of clear tubing that fit the tube snugly and sliding it on first then cutting it off flush with the tube then the rubber hose fit pretty snugly over that.
So as you can see now the fan is mostly covered but not totally, so I think I'm going to call that good.IMG_20190109_180102.jpgIMG_20190109_200808.jpg