waiting on parts for the plow truck and I needed to work on my burb and escort so it went out and they went in. now I have my truck in the shop. Doing a complete front end rebuild, so far I have the ball joints done.
So just finished up the front end on my truck. Still needs an alignment but it's close enough to get me there. So now I have newer wheel bearings and all new ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm. Idler arm came with a grease line so you can grease it without having to remove the skid shield, cool ,I was actually considering doing that. Next up is the crossover. Then IP
Ya know, something I do different than most when changing the ip is DONT remove the lines from the ip.
Pop the intake off.
Undo the nuts from injectors and wiggle free. Undo the 2 nuts (each side) on the valve covers that the lines mount to.
Then oil fill and 3 bolts inside, 3 adjuster nuts that are fun to reach, and wiggle the ip free of the gasket. Pull the ip with the 8 legs so your holding a big metal spider. Then you can reach all line nuts so easily.
If you put it on cardboard box, sharpie exactly where the injector nuts are. it goes back together beautifully. Obviously the bottom 2 are the hardest, so mark them the most accurate and pay most attention when assembling to the new ip.
One guy in the shop copied my method, but added sandwiching the lines innthe valley on each side with paint stir sticks and safety wire to ensure nothing could move.
I probably done 30-35 ips that way and only once had to loosen and adjust a couple lines- but never the hard ones.
I wouldn’t have thought mentioning this if not having just put my “spider” on a shelf last night pulling my engine apart.