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Long, slow build of my truck

As soon as I can get a clutch and non-shitty-4th gear tranny in, she is going to go back to the dyno to see where I am. I would easily reckon I am somewhere in the 450-500ft lbs range. Might have the clutch soon enough, and the tranny I might even be able to live with to dyno. just cause it grinds a little doesn't slow me down any
 
Honestly I wouldn't bother with the hx40 till you get a new tune to fuel that turbo.

Wouldn't have been a bad idea to upgrade the wheel on the hx35 and run it. It's more then enough for stock for fuel. Just my oppinion.
 
I noticed slightly more torque band going from a stock HX35 wheel to a Wicked Wheel 2. It was a nice upgrade for not brutally expensive.
 
I think I am going to play around with the waste gate actuator some tomorrow. I am finding that the 3-bar MAP with the WG wired shut works pretty good for around town driving, but sucks on the highway. OD, TCC locked, I cruise 65 at 2000rpm (3.73s) and make 6psi on flat ground. Give the truck any throttle, and the response is sluggish and boost climbs to 12psi, but the truck goes nowhere. With the GM-4 gated to 8psi, I could stop on it and the truck would at least move a bit. Perhaps that is because the GM is much smaller than the HX, I am not to say. Either way, I think I might try my old 2-bar MAP and set the WG to 15psi to help avoid defueling. Sooner or later I am just going to need more fuel, plain and simple.
 
pacificdrumma said:
I think I am going to play around with the waste gate actuator some tomorrow. I am finding that the 3-bar MAP with the WG wired shut works pretty good for around town driving, but sucks on the highway. OD, TCC locked, I cruise 65 at 2000rpm (3.73s) and make 6psi on flat ground. Give the truck any throttle, and the response is sluggish and boost climbs to 12psi, but the truck goes nowhere. With the GM-4 gated to 8psi, I could stop on it and the truck would at least move a bit. Perhaps that is because the GM is much smaller than the HX, I am not to say. Either way, I think I might try my old 2-bar MAP and set the WG to 15psi to help avoid defueling. Sooner or later I am just going to need more fuel, plain and simple.
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You definitely need more fuel. I don't know if you read threw my turbo install thread, but I had some very similar problems. Read post #52 (the problem), and post #59 (the fix) of this thread. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/just-ordered-an-hx40wii.43343/page-3

I know you have a DS4, so you can't just go turn your fuel screw, but the problem is very similar, and I believe more fuel is the answer.

Matt
 
I find it very odd that you can't get it to boost over 12 psi with the waste gate shut. Perhaps you should check for pre turbo exhaust leaks and post turbo boost leaks.

Another thing you should look into is fuel pressure. If your not getting good fuel pressure, your not gonna make boost. Be sure your lift pump is in good working order and check for any clogged filters. Wouldn't be a bad idea to remove and flush out the FFM. Lots of crap can get built up in there.
 
With the stock ECM and 2 bar map,you won't be able to boost more then 10 psi for a few seconds before you defuel.
 
Jorge6.5 said:
I find it very odd that you can't get it to boost over 12 psi with the waste gate shut. Perhaps you should check for pre turbo exhaust leaks and post turbo boost leaks.

Another thing you should look into is fuel pressure. If your not getting good fuel pressure, your not gonna make boost. Be sure your lift pump is in good working order and check for any clogged filters. Wouldn't be a bad idea to remove and flush out the FFM. Lots of crap can get built up in there.
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The truck will hit 18psi all day long with the 3-bar, I don't think I have any boost leaks. The issue is that with highway driving, if I give the truck throttle when cruising, boost rises from 5psi to 12psi, but the truck doesn't accelerate.

Jorge6.5 said:
With the stock ECM and 2 bar map,you won't be able to boost more then 10 psi for a few seconds before you defuel.
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With the 2-bar I was able to hit 12-15psi and hold it there for 5-10 seconds, it would defuel after 15psi
 
bowtiebutler956 said:
You definitely need more fuel. I don't know if you read threw my turbo install thread, but I had some very similar problems. Read post #52 (the problem), and post #59 (the fix) of this thread. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/just-ordered-an-hx40wii.43343/page-3

I know you have a DS4, so you can't just go turn your fuel screw, but the problem is very similar, and I believe more fuel is the answer.

Matt
Click to expand...

Yeah I think you are right Matt. I did read your install, great thread. I guess I will have to look into a chip seeing as a DB2 swap isn't in the cards right now.
 
I just sent HeathDiesel an email asking about their Max E Tork program. I think that if/when the truck does a tune, it will be at the same time as the NV4500 goes in. I assume I will need to use a 5 speed ECU not a 4L80E ECU, so that seems like a good time to get a tuned ECU in. As I have no need for a turbo master, I hope Bill will cut me a deal. Told them I am looking for a hot street tune but one that wont sacrifice towing or highway driving. We will see what they say. I think their ECU prices have gone down in recent years.. I don't remember it being in the 400's.
 
Perhaps I should get a tune that would work with my auto then.. hmm..

Can someone explain why I see little to no smoke from 0-15psi but 15-18psi I see smoke? Is there such thing as a "lean burn" causing smoke like a gasser? Or is it due to the timing and fuel curves?

Oh also, my new 58/83 wheel came in for the HX40. Based on how the 35 behaves, the 40 will probably suck on stock fuel, but it will be kept for down the road, or as a spare in the event that something happens to the 35.

IMG_4979 copy.jpeg
 
You need to identify if the smoke is fuel or oil. Higher boost pressure can push oil past a seal that is not perfect easier than it can at lower pressure. Oil past the seal burns up partially in the exhaust causing smoke. Just saw this in a friends furd 7.3 that once the turbo rebuild was done he is somewhere in Wa. currently headed for Ak. without any smoke now.

If it is not oil, then I would think fuel curves after that. Keep in mind I know jack squat on program capacity, So I always look for what I understand first, then come to the pros to teach me...
 
My HX40w CKO lites up right away w/Heath's Maxi Torque tune, bellows a good amount of black smoke when I nail it (way more than w/GM8) which soons dissipates and my Burb hauls a__ and mean really hauls. I'll be getting the HX40 specific tune Bill recently did for someone for their 6.5td w/4L80. My driving style has changed by not having the need for lots of pedal input as before.

I suspect the later smoke on your 6.5 is bypass under boost!

The easier spooling w/auto is because of tq multiplication of converter the more "X" built in the quicker the spool however a manual with a deep 1st gear should spool fast too with more pedal input IMHO.
 
Even with my 5 speed and 4.10's, my HX35 is still relatively slow to spool in my opinion. I would never dream of going any bigger than my 12cm housing. It would be pathetic at best if I did. At 5200ft driving around and ranging up to 9-10K ft in the mountains, I couldn't imagine some of the larger turbos coming up here to play
 
6.5L said:
Even with my 5 speed and 4.10's, my HX35 is still relatively slow to spool in my opinion. I would never dream of going any bigger than my 12cm housing. It would be pathetic at best if I did. At 5200ft driving around and ranging up to 9-10K ft in the mountains, I couldn't imagine some of the larger turbos coming up here to play
Click to expand...

It's definitely no GM-x turbo, but I don't mind sacrificing a little spool time for better top end performance. The real thing to do would be go with an HE351V with VGT technology
 
Jorge6.5 said:
Honestly I wouldn't bother with the hx40 till you get a new tune to fuel that turbo.

Wouldn't have been a bad idea to upgrade the wheel on the hx35 and run it. It's more then enough for stock for fuel. Just my oppinion.
Click to expand...

Great advice, I suspect the fueling is most important followed by cooling air charge my old Maxi Tq from heath is IMHO great however I'm going for more fuel soon in a program upgrade.
 
Here's a video of what the HX does under full throttle acceleration. Mods are K47 box w/o top cover, Diamond Eye exhaust, #9 resistor and 3 bar map.... aka stock fuel with an intake an exhaust. HX35 is a 54mm compressor, 60mm exhaust, 12cm housing.

 
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