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Long, slow build of my truck

Nate, the flat plate will not interfere with the wastegate operation. The HX downpipe I got from raceday uses a flat plate with no notch in it, and my wastegate works perfectly.

Matt
 

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More progress tonight. With the help of my much-more-skilled-than-me friend Kyle we managed to cut the 90 down into an elbow, and tacked it to the blank flange. This was the tightest elbow available to us at the local heavy equipment/tractor trailer parts shop, and is not as tight as the elbow that raceday uses in his kit. This elbow, when cut as we cut it, results in an oval opening, whereas the flange is a 3" I.D. circle. To fix this, we cut several small slices in the bottom of the opening, and bent them in to effectively "close" the bottom of the oval, bringing it a bit closer to round. Next, we ground the lower 3rd portion of the opening down about a 1/4". This allowed the top of the pipe to sit inside the flange, and the bottom of the pipe to rest on top of it. The only negative side effect of this is that it will not allow access to one of the 5 bolts that holds the flange onto the exhaust housing. Based off of pictures, we eyeballed the clocking and tacked it into position to see how everything looked. So far, so good.

Next step is to actually get the turbo in the truck, do the final clocking, and determine how short to cut the piece of the pipe that actually meets the down pipe. Once this is done, we will weld on the 3" v-band, and this part of the project should be in the books.

IMG_0525.JPG IMG_0526.JPG IMG_0527.JPG IMG_6940.jpg IMG_6158.jpg
 
Remember the cobrahead downpipe link I had posted if you review the images, you can too enhance flow of that pipe by welding sections to its sides to make it a cobrahead while leaving space for fasteners.
 
For raceday's kits he doesn't use a 90 degree elbow but something tighter. Can't remember now but i think he starts off with maybe 120 degree bend?
 
We are working off of measurements of another home made adapter currently in a truck. His measures approximately 3.5" from the back of the flange plate to the back most point of the adapter pipe. Ours is 3.75". I'm sure we can come up with a quarter inch.
 
Love this build, can't wait to see how you like it.

n8in8or said:
Cool. I don't think I saw that one. I found this one few weeks ago. It's thicker and it has a pocket machined supposedly for wastegate operation. Does that one you have interfere with wastegate operation at all?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=141328566709
Click to expand...

The wastegate doesn't open enough to worry about it. I've never ran anything but a flat plate on any HX turbo. Also, IMHO, anything over $25 for a blank plate is a rip off. I paid $15 for mine but shortly after that, they skhyrocketed in price.
 
Changing gears (pun intended) tonight we opened up the NV4500. When I got the trans, it would shift into gears 1,2,3,5 and reverse, but not 4. Additionally, when in neutral it would not spin over. Removing the top cover revealed that the 3rd gear synchro is toast, and that the trans got hot at some point. Gears themselves look fine, but it wreaked of burnt oil and there was some slight discoloration. So next is to contact a couple of good local shops to get estimates for rebuild/repair. Not money I had anticipated spending, but I suppose its not bad because it will be one less thing to worry about down the road.
 
There a few different aftermarket coolers that attach to the PTO ports on that box and even some remote cooling using a pump and aux cooler then some good quality synthetic fluid that will not break down under excessive heat load!

Depending on which box you have the older granny box or the newer type will dictate your final gearing.
 
Alright, well the HX is on, doesn't leak, and makes boost. Initial impressions are that it definitely whistles more than the GM-4 did. It also builds boost about as quickly as the GM-4 did. We ran out of time today, and in the interest of making the truck drivable, we wired the waste gate shut. As previously shown, I made a manual waste gate actuator, but still need to come up with a bracket. Cruising around in 3rd with TCC locked, it seems to run in a 3-8psi range depending on flat ground, hill, etc. Punch the throttle (3/4 or so) and it climbs up to 12-14psi pretty quickly. To the boards, it will hit an easy 15, and I think I saw as high as 18. However, I cannot go past 3/4 throttle, or the truck begins to defuel, and buck. I tried unplugging the 2 sensors in the upper intake just for ha-ha's, but that resulted in a CEL and limp mode. So, until the waste gate bracket is made up, I will just have to drive the truck more conservatively.
 
Good news. Now to make it better, throw a 3 bar map sensor on the manifold in place of the stock 2 bar map. Your defueling will be gone and no more limp mode. Check around the site for a waste gate actuator braket. Not long ago another member put on an hx35 like yours and had to make a custom braket that was held on by one of the bolts that connect turbo flange to exhaust manifold.

Keep up the work and keep us posted and oh yeah, pics or it didn't happen lol. Good luck!
 
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