• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Lift Pump Not Working, Where to Start

Yeah, gears aren’t an option. But just new chain might be worth it.
Other while you are there stuff if what you have is old - so you don’t have to get back innit for a long time:
Front main seal, waterpump, cps.
 
Will L. said:
Yeah, gears aren’t an option. But just new chain might be worth it.
Other while you are there stuff if what you have is old - so you don’t have to get back innit for a long time:
Front main seal, waterpump, cps.
Click to expand...

Water pump is relatively new, 60K. CPS is new. Have front main seal. Not sure how to install. It’s been awhile. Do I need to to pull the radiator or just the fan shroud to do all this?
 
I pull the radiator for ease and no damage. The extra hour doing it saves more time than that being able to zip everything fast and easy with impact and not trying to be cautious or fight for space.

but it has been near 20 years, maybe others have good trick to leave it?

With cover off, seal remover pops it out. If you dont have the harbor freight seal driver kit (hint) then do block of wood trick to drive it in even on all sides and flush.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
Will L. said:
I pull the radiator for ease and no damage. The extra hour doing it saves more time than that being able to zip everything fast and easy with impact and not trying to be cautious or fight for space.

but it has been near 20 years, maybe others have good trick to leave it?

With cover off, seal remover pops it out. If you dont have the harbor freight seal driver kit (hint) then do block of wood trick to drive it in even on all sides and flush.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
Click to expand...

I got one of those tools for pressing bearings and seals into trailer hubs. It has various sized conical sided plates go to handle various sizes.

Do you simply pry out the old seal?
 
might be worth doing the water pump while you are there if the engine has been sitting without antifreeze in it for a while. I let mine sit about 2 or 3 months dry and the water pump leaked after I filled it back up. That’s happened to me a couple times on different vehicles
 
If doing the timing chain/sprockets, cover will be off, just knock out old seal and drive in new one. Be sure to coat the seals outer surface and the seal bore in the cover with some no 1 or no2 Permatex. Thats how I doooit anyhow.
Be sure to coat the coolant pump gaskets too. I think maybe a couple or so of the coolant pump bolts might benefit from sealing the threads too. IIRC.
 
If not doing the timing chain/sprockets and replacing the front cranking shaft seal with the front cover in place, also be sure to fill the seals spring side cavity with grease to keep the spring from bouncing out.
 
Jaryd said:
might be worth doing the water pump while you are there if the engine has been sitting without antifreeze in it for a while. I let mine sit about 2 or 3 months dry and the water pump leaked after I filled it back up. That’s happened to me a couple times on different vehicles
Click to expand...

It has been sitting with antifreeze. I checked and less than 40K on the water pump. It’s a Bosch spin on. He has the single t-stat cross over. If I were to go new it would be AC Delco.
 
For removing the crank bolt holding the HB, IIRC I used a demo bar bolted to the pulley and braced against the frame to fix the crank, then I used my floor jack handle over a breaker bar to get it loosened. To put it back, I reversed that.
 
Last AC Delco water pump, for a 454, I got was made in Communist China. :vomit:

I wonder how far the bolt actually fell? Maybe it got trapped by the IP gear? Do you have one of those snake USB cameras? GM bolted every dammed thing they could think of to the water pump...
 
WarWagon said:
Last AC Delco water pump, for a 454, I got was made in Communist China. :vomit:

I wonder how far the bolt actually fell? Maybe it got trapped by the IP gear? Do you have one of those snake USB cameras? GM bolted every dammed thing they could think of to the water pump...
Click to expand...

It sounded like it did not fall very far. No on the camera. Did try and run a magnet down there, but nothing. I needed to open it up and change the timing gear and chain anyways, so I was fooling myself.
 
Yeah, unfortunately.
Leroy rents the puller/installer iirc local parts store have them, but not normally the thread we use.
Hink sells a simple installer on ebay or something- can’t remember where he does or if he still does.
 
Will L. said:
Yeah, unfortunately.
Leroy rents the puller/installer iirc local parts store have them, but not normally the thread we use.
Hink sells a simple installer on ebay or something- can’t remember where he does or if he still does.
Click to expand...

My 3-prong puller is up at the Montana home. Thought I was going to be replacing the timing chain and gears on the ‘99, but ended up just replacing the water pump.
 
Used my Rigid cordless 1/2” impact which made things go fast. Had my wife sticking bolts into cardboard in the pattern they came off to make the reinstall easy. All cleaned up and it goes back together tomorrow.
 
Use some no2 permatex sealer on the water port gaskets and on the coolant pump gaskets or else they will leak. Found that out years ago, the hard way. It also might be possible that some of the bolts extend into water jackets, be sure to use sealer on the threads of those bolts only, not on any that goes onto capped over holes. I usually feel inside of the opening to see if the bolt hole is open.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top