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Ive got my Kojo tune.. Whats next?

So I put a vaccuum gauge on the line leading to the wastegate actuator. It was pulling about 5" of vaccuum. I feel like it should be a good bit more than that. I couldnt find any leaks in the vac line. Does this tell me my pump is going bad? The truck seems to build boost until about half throttle than I get smoke. I have gauges on order!
 
You should have close to 20" at the waste gate. If the lines are good measure the vac at the pump, if it's around 20" at the pump the sensor is bad.
 
The boost sensor monitors and registers the amount of boost to the computer. The computer tells the silenoid valve to open or close depending on the boost pressure. When the silenoid opens it allows vacuum to go from the vacuum pump to the wastgate actuator and when the silenoid closes it doesnt allow vacuum to the wastgate and the wastegate closes. Sensor to watch the pressure, silenoid to do something about it.
 
Cali6.5 said:
What injectors do you run with the att? Stock our high performance? Heath says the hp injectors make high egt for towing. I wonder if that would be the case with the att and hp injectors?
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ATT with Heath/Bosch HO Marine injectors and Heath tune for ATT. Tow all the time. This is the coolest running 6.5 I've had.
 
Cali6.5 said:
The boost sensor monitors and registers the amount of boost to the computer. The computer tells the silenoid valve to open or close depending on the boost pressure. When the silenoid opens it allows vacuum to go from the vacuum pump to the wastgate actuator and when the silenoid closes it doesnt allow vacuum to the wastgate and the wastegate closes. Sensor to watch the pressure, silenoid to do something about it.
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Is there a way to diagnos which one has gone bad? sensor or solenoid? I would really like to keep my vacuum setup and my pump was replaced 40k ago. I may just go for a turbomaster. Do I need to delete the pump in order to run the turbomaster? As of now I dont have enough $ to put a new belt on yet. I will soon but I would like to get it running right asap. I couldnt tell I wasnt getting vacuum until I installed my tune but it explains pretty crappy around town MPG
 
Vacuums should be 20" at the vac pump at idle. Measure between the vac pump and the boat solenoid. Vacuum should be 16" between the boost solenoid and the vacuum canister (on the turbo) at idle.

If you have less vacuum, we need to know where and how much.

Solenoids are cheap. So are MAP sensors. So are turbomasters.

look in the 6.5 technical reference library (link in my signature)
 
If you have good vac to the sensor and little or none at the solenoid(actuator) on the turbo. Then the sensor is either bad or it's electrical or the hose between the sensor and actuator is leaking. It's just a process of elimination.
Ratchetnator said:
Is there a way to diagnos which one has gone bad? sensor or solenoid? I would really like to keep my vacuum setup and my pump was replaced 40k ago. I may just go for a turbomaster. Do I need to delete the pump in order to run the turbomaster? As of now I dont have enough $ to put a new belt on yet. I will soon but I would like to get it running right asap. I couldnt tell I wasnt getting vacuum until I installed my tune but it explains pretty crappy around town MPG
Click to expand...
 
NVW said:
If you have good vac to the sensor and little or none at the solenoid(actuator) on the turbo. Then the sensor is either bad or it's electrical or the hose between the sensor and actuator is leaking. It's just a process of elimination.
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So is the can with diagphram the solenoid? I have very little vacuum getting to the actuator 5". So does this bring it down to the sensor, pump, or a leaking line. I did an inspection earlier and couldnt find any leaks in the line
 
One other ? I am getting a slight amount of vaccuum to the actuator. Would this indicate a definite leak in the line somewhere? If the sensor was bad would it give any vacuum at all?
 
Ratchetnator said:
So is the can with diagphram the solenoid? I have very little vacuum getting to the actuator 5". So does this bring it down to the sensor, pump, or a leaking line. I did an inspection earlier and couldnt find any leaks in the line
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Yes, the can is the solenoid or actuator. Connect the vac gauge at the pump, before and after the sensor and at the actuator to eliminate the lines. There is a volt reference for the sensor wires, someone should know what the value is. I can't recall what it is.

If you go TM you can leave the pump in place.
 
Ratchetnator said:
One other ? I am getting a slight amount of vaccuum to the actuator. Would this indicate a definite leak in the line somewhere? If the sensor was bad would it give any vacuum at all?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if the sensor either works or doesn't.

One thing I remember reading was spraying WD-40 in the sensor. There is a check ball that can stick IIRC
 
The can on the turbo is the actuator. The solenoid is the black cylinder on the drivers side head with wires and hoses on it. Like I said, look in the 6.5 technical reference library... There are pictures and everything
 
So today I installed my gauges. Turned out I was spiking 2.5psi from the start. I made a turbomaster that allows me to spike 13psi and hold 11psi. Holy crap this is how its supposed to be! Thanks again!
 
Ratchetnator said:
So today I installed my gauges. Turned out I was spiking 2.5psi from the start. I made a turbomaster that allows me to spike 13psi and hold 11psi. Holy crap this is how its supposed to be! Thanks again!
Click to expand...

I'd be careful and keep an eye on it if you load the truck up or tow with it. I made a t/m once and it was all good unloaded but had to back the spring off when I had the trailer hooked up.
 
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