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Installing an EGR Blocking Plate, Finger Stick, PCV Reroute.

CtChevy427 said:
Mike, do you think you can get in there with a torch to get the nuts hot?
Click to expand...
That would kinda be a last ditch thing. It's awful crowded back there. I'm gonna have to get the right tools on it first. I think once I can get some real torque on 'em I can get a couple of turns out of 'em. I just don't want to do anything to risk rounding the nuts off.
 
btfarm said:
So I did my PCV reroute today. I also tried to install the EGR blocker (NO GO!) and did install the "finger stick" circuit.

PCV reroute wasn't all too tough except getting to the driver side fitting. That's buried in a mass of connectors and cables.

Couple of pics of the PCV deal:
The EGR thing is a different story...:mad2:
I could NOT loosen the nuts to spread the flange with any of several different 12mm tools. All the assortment I had was a waste of time... I decided the blocker plate will not be going in. I did, however install the 'finger stick' circuit first (assuming the plate would be installed) so as I understand it, the EGR is no longer functioning, but I could be wrong...

Couple-a pics of that:
This duct cover is a ROYAL PITA to remove!

I thought I should leave the EGR motor unplugged. Guess not because that threw a code right away. So I plugged it back in. Here's a question for you... Is the EGR motor now non functional? If so, then the blocker plate isn't really needed is it?
Click to expand...

It doesn't disable the EGR motor, it only modifies the signal from the MAF into fooling it into thinking that the airflow going past the MAF has been reduced when the EGR valve opens. The ECM calculates EGR flow based on the MAF sensor.

This is JMO, but I don't think exhaust pressure is enough to force the valve open if it isn't gunked up. It's held shut by a pretty stout spring... I removed the motor and pressed on the valve with a screwdriver. It moved smoothly, but did take a lot of force to open.
 
The valve will open partially under load and is well documented on this and other forums. Guys with the Edge Evo Race particularly have had hunting problems and have needed the blocker to completely shut off the EGR circuit. The Blocker is not a cosmetic item. It does have a function.
 
Marauderer said:
The valve will open partially under load and is well documented on this and other forums. Guys with the Edge Evo Race particularly have had hunting problems and have needed the blocker to completely shut off the EGR circuit. The Blocker is not a cosmetic item. It does have a function.
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Yea, some of the EFILive guys have run into this problem themselves. Tuners actually suggest either blocking it or not even disabling it via the tune as when it does blow open, strange boost things happen.
 
Grady, the exhaust pressure get high enough when you start to hit the mid 20's and low 30's for boost pressures. I am not sure what boost pressure the evo gives you but thats what it takes to over come spring pressure. Ymmv based on mileage and soot build up ect. The blocker plate is indeed a great device.

For Mike, ultimately me and Bammer ended up 2 manning the job with most of the torque coming from the drivers side. The lbz motors were tighter then any lly that I ever did. Lube the hell out of them for days before with a good penatrating grease.
 
Hey Stacks how goes it. Yes I will be going to EFI live within the next year (remember that thread and your recommendation).

Mike, I used a foam pool float lounge to lay across the motor and then i could lay across the motor and not be impaled on anything. I also used a small cheater bar over the end of my ratchet to help with the mechanical advantage.

I wish i was closer I would offer to come over and help
 
Nah...
We've had a stretch of good weather (FINALLY!) lately so I've been working outside. I need to find a Sears and get the tools I need 1st though.
 
Good for you Mike, getting outside to work. We will be going home from Maryland the first of April and the first priority is to get the garden in.

Bammer, I see in your sig you are in SW CT. I will be coming through your area on 3/29 and 4/2 any chance we can have a cup of coffee and kick some tires?
 
Don't worry Mike the nuts will be there waiting for you.....:hihi:

I think I may try and break mine free this week. If I figure something out I will let you know.
 
Marauderer said:
Good for you Mike, getting outside to work. We will be going home from Maryland the first of April and the first priority is to get the garden in.

Bammer, I see in your sig you are in SW CT. I will be coming through your area on 3/29 and 4/2 any chance we can have a cup of coffee and kick some tires?
Click to expand...


SURE! Just give me some details on where you'll be and what time and we'll make something work one of those days!
 
I responded but am driving to upstate NY and back so I'll be off line the rest of the day.
 
CtChevy427 said:
Don't worry Mike the nuts will be there waiting for you.....:hihi:

I think I may try and break mine free this week. If I figure something out I will let you know.
Click to expand...


I am about a week late here but I did get to try today. Success.....:arms:

I only have a small bit of skin missing from under my right forearm.

I think the penetrating oil is what made it possible. Keep in mind I tried in the past and failed. With the same tools.

I made up a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and power steering fluid. Applied it to both nuts with a Q-Tip and waited about an hour. Read about the mixture on another site.

Using a 1/4" drive 6 Pt. 12mm socket I was able to break both nuts loose. Yes 1/4" drive.

I am right handed so I reached over the turbo and behind the resonator. With my left hand I reached around and put finger pressure on the back of the ratchet and more or less used my fingers to pull the ratchet. I did this to both nuts.

Now all I need is a blocker plate and something to turn the codes off.
 
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CtChevy427 said:
I am about a week late here but I did get to try today. Success.....:arms:

I only have a small bit of skin missing from under my right forearm.

I think the penetrating oil is what made it possible. Keep in mind I tried in the past and failed. With the same tools.

I made up a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and power steering fluid. Applied it to both nuts with a Q-Tip and waited about an hour. Read about the mixture on another site.

Using a 1/4" drive 12mm socket I was able to break both nuts loose. Yes 1/4" drive. I could swear it's 14mm- I had the 1/4" on there but I pictured the ratchet breaking and lots of blood spilled/swearwords hollered. I'll try that.
I am right handed so I reached over the turbo and behind the resonator. With my left hand I reached around and put finger pressure on the back of the ratchet and more or less used my fingers to pull the ratchet. I did this to both nuts.

Now all I need is a blocker plate and something to turn the codes off.
Click to expand...
If I didn't already have the Predator tune I would do EFI Live and no code.
 
btfarm said:
If I didn't already have the Predator tune I would do EFI Live and no code.
Click to expand...


I also have the Predator for now.

I also had my doubts about the 1/4" drive, but I though it's SK so lets see how it holds up.

I will be actively pursing a stubby 3/8 drive ratchet for the next time I'm in there.
 
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