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Huge problems :( Engine maybe

I would still have the head magnafluxed. That's alot of work to do and find out it was cracked but that's me. As far as one piston i have done it on gassers and diesels. It woks. I't's not optimum repair but it should work. If your motor only has 120k on it the rest of the cylinders "shouldn't" be that off from one new one. Buy North Maines short block if you can get ahold of him. I haven't heard fom him in a few weeks . He might be at sea.
 
BTW what's the deal with new head bolts. Just asking cause that's a new one on me. I have done a few head jobs on 6.2 and just reused. No issues. Just curious.
 
Acesneights1 said:
BTW what's the deal with new head bolts. Just asking cause that's a new one on me. I have done a few head jobs on 6.2 and just reused. No issues. Just curious.
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From my experience, most engines that use torque to yield bolt can be used twice. After that you won't get the stretch needed and the bolt usually bottoms out in the hole. I did the head on my turbo daytona and reused those and they were TtY bolts.

I'm not telling you to re-use them, just a thought.
 
Considering Felpro head bolts are like $40, I don't see a problem just getting new head bolts anyways.
 
Matt Bachand said:
NAPA's computer said it takes almost 28 quarts! 7 Gallons worth. I'll have a guy a know get me a case of the green, and get that going at the same time. I think that Dex-Cool is from factory with 120k on it. Not too shabby.
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Mine took 6 gallons and I used the 50/50 pre-mix because they can get it perfect at the factory and they use distilled water so no worries. Some might say the stuff is to exensive but I say 6 gallons of prevention versus 800 pounds of new engine cure.
 
Best to use lifetime antifreeze. If there is any dexcool left in the block lifetime can mix with it, green cannot.
No issue with 40$ for head bolts. I just never heard of it before except on my Rabbit diesel.
 
Been talked about before Kenny multiple forums, & GM service manual about the 1 time use on head bolts, never a bad idea to revisit it just in case a member missed it. I opted for studs on the project engine, as when & if I ever get time to install it (been finished since June) I may be swpping heads on & off doing some pre-cup R&D, and studs were way to go with that, TTYs are lkess expensive than studs so if economics are an issue go with TTY bolts.

As far as reuse, some have done it, I wouldn't but that is me.
 
Matt Bachand, I dont mean to change the subject but how well does your truck move snow? Ive only moved snow with a 1979 chevy 350 gasser or a tractor. Ive wondered how good the 6.5 is for pushing snow.
 
My K3500 pushes an 8 1/2 Diamond(Fisher knock off) effortlessly. Diesel=low end torque. Good for pushing. Auto Trannys hold up better too due to the lower rpm torque curve.
 
Acesneights1 said:
My K3500 pushes an 8 1/2 Diamond(Fisher knock off) effortlessly. Diesel=low end torque. Good for pushing. Auto Trannys hold up better too due to the lower rpm torque curve.
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Thats why diesel tractors became so popular. The 350 will move snow but it doesnt impress me. Alot of times you need a running start. :nonod:
 
Michaeljp86 said:
Matt Bachand, I dont mean to change the subject but how well does your truck move snow? Ive only moved snow with a 1979 chevy 350 gasser or a tractor. Ive wondered how good the 6.5 is for pushing snow.
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I'm extremely proud of its pushing power.

It all depends on weight. more weight, more snow. Tires will always spin as a weak point. Pushing piles, RPM's never really go above 1000-1400, let the trucks weight do the work, and it pushes awesome at low rpms. Super steep hills/rough roads I drop to 4-low, and then need the foot on the brake instead of the gas :).

Last year I had a loaded 2.5 yrd sander, (never weighed in, but truck w/plow and no sander weights 10,500). I was widening streets and the snowbanks, snow was coming up half my hood and up my windshield, the ol' 6.5 was basically just tunneling its way through snowbanks as wide as my truck, and pushin that weight with little effort.

Was slow up massively steep hills loaded, but made it no problem everytime. I'm not afraid to use 4-low if I think it will be less beat on my truck, and I'm not in a race ever, and always try to let the weight of the truck do the work.
 
Exactly!! Another area where gassers cannot compete!!
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Probably not the best place to mention this - But - SB vs BB? You want TORQUE = 500 CUI Caddy Motor = 550 @ 3000 rpm.
I love GM engines!!!
 
Some day Id like to make my truck into a straight axle 4wd with a V plow.

Anything new going on with your piston problem?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
Any news Matt?
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Yes.

Found a really nice Machine/Speed shop in Mendon MA,

Mikes Machine Shop.

Very clean in there, a few engines, a drag car and a cam laying on the bench. I felt great dropping the head there.

He cleaned her up, checked straight, no warp, a small chip on the cyl 7 precup, and a few cracked corners on the other precups. (could barely pick it up), Said head was in great shape, and he was re-doing the other valves and whatnots and checking them up.

I couldn't feel better about my head being there, and not on a shelf with 9 other heads/blocks waiting to be 'banged out' . I came by with all new hardware for cyl 7, and I could have waiting for him to finish today, but I didnt'w ant him to do a rush job so told him i'll come by first thing in the morning and grab it.

Fel Pro Head Gasket, lower intake, upper intake,

Red RTV high temp for manifold/head
Black for valve cover gasket.

Might have right x/over flange and bolts, may not

had to get new manifold/head bolts as with most plow trucks, the Driver's side head/manifold get rusted together and look one piece.

Going to give her 4 new glows on that side while re-assembly.

Flushing old, old Dexcool outta there, replacing with fresh new green, completely flushed system.

Draining Oil, went with Mobil-1 10-40 High Mileage again.

Tomorrow will be a busy day, and hopefully all goes well.

Wouldn't you know it, its goning to snow 6+ inches Wednesday....

Fingers are crossed that she fires and purrs once again.

Double Crossed she does it tomorrow :)
 
RadioMan said:
Probably not the best place to mention this - But - SB vs BB? You want TORQUE = 500 CUI Caddy Motor = 550 @ 3000 rpm.
I love GM engines!!!
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Thats all fine and dandy, but who wants their rig working hard around the 3k range? Not me, I'd rather do all the work around 1500rpm instead. Long live the diesel!
 
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