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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles
- Thread starter nycxjeremyy
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 6.2 maintenance
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The two wires making the connection at the terminal is correct and stock.
You need to start recording that video on the clear line before the engine starts in the morning.
Fyi proper starting technique is push throttle pedal all the way to the floor once and then release before turning the key on.
You need to start recording that video on the clear line before the engine starts in the morning.
Fyi proper starting technique is push throttle pedal all the way to the floor once and then release before turning the key on.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
I was going off this for proper starting technique
Also. Youre referring to the two green wires on the IP, correct?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes the two green wires in your video.
The start procedure GM forgot to add from Stanandyne who made the ip…
Pedal to floor then release resets the external solenoid how it can sit at different positions on the stepping arm, and for the cruise on ones equipped. It also ensure throttle return to idle via springs- one of those exciting moments should it fail with the engine running moments to avoid.
The start procedure GM forgot to add from Stanandyne who made the ip…
Pedal to floor then release resets the external solenoid how it can sit at different positions on the stepping arm, and for the cruise on ones equipped. It also ensure throttle return to idle via springs- one of those exciting moments should it fail with the engine running moments to avoid.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Ah I see
Well, ill do that from now on.
Also, ill start it up cold tomorrow with the clear line on, see how it acts
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Put a camera there so you can record while actually turning the key. Alot of times there's an initial rush of bubbles that can be missed by the time you get back to the IP
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Clear line test, cold start:
No bubbles or anything
No bubbles or anything
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
What do you all think? Heck how does the start up sound like to yall, i didnt see alot of smoke this time
Will L.
Well-Known Member
It’s still shaking way too much.
The timing marks lining up is correct IF the timing chain is brand new.
But the timing chain stretches dramatically in these. That causes the camshaft, the valves and the injection to become retarded. Gm never followed it enough to come up with specified intervals. But general consensus became about every 20k-30k miles to put on a timing tool and readjust the timing.
Some folks just do it by ear or by feel.
I don’t think retarded timing alone is enough to cause the shake seen in yours.
Without spending a tremendous amount of time/ money on why- it becomes a question of how much is worth it to correct it.
Something I would caution is the motor mounts suffer tremendously from it and when the driver side fails, the fan shreads the fan gaurd and a few other parts get damaged on occasion.
So I would buy a replacement one (or both preferably) and swap in sometime in the next 6 months.
If you want to dive into it, The shake itself could be unequal compression,
Do a dry compression test only not a wet test on diesels. A cylinder leak down test at same time as compression testing is always smart and these two could reveal the smoking cause.
unbalanced injectors we already discussed. This can be the result as well as smoking, poor power performance, poor mpg, even overheating in extreme cases.
The ip putting out unequal amount of fuel to the cylinders also can be an issue.
Testing this is something done while doing compression test.
A normal compression test is done by first removing all 8 glow plugs. Unplug the glow plug controller harness so they don’t operate.
NORMALLY you unplug the fuel shut off solenoid wire so the ip will have no fuel output. Hook up a battery charger to keep full electrical power for all the cranking that follows.
Using a diesel compression tester, one cylinder at a time you screw in the adapter with hose/gauge assy, crank engine over say 5 or 6 revolutions and write down the reading on the gauge. Move to next cylinder until all 8 are recorded.
If you are trying to check for equal fuel output, you would next undo the hard line from the injectors. Attach 8 identical clean empty bottles (plastic drinking water bottles dried out is a good option) to each hard line and crank the engine over until you have a descent measurable amount. Now remove all 8 and compare volumes. You have to use something at your disposal for as accurate measuring to get the comparison. Some guy use kitchen measuring tools some use a small accurate weight scale. When I had to do this frequently in the shop, I bought the thick glass 100ml measuring beakers that are tall & skinny. Then just used electrical tape to hold each one in place onto the hard lines.
Understand the equal fuel delivery from ip and injectors is this: if one cylinder puts out 10% more fuel, that cylinder will make 10% more power. But the cylinder opposite it in the firing order has to work 10% harder to operate against it so it looses 10% power. Thats how the engine runs unbalanced and looses power& mpg. Different pop pressures in the injectors alters amount of fuel delivered and how well the fuel is vaporized.
Difference in compression works same way in unequal power developed. Remember the compression is how the fuel is ignited. So a couple weak cylinders can have the unburned fuel making the smoke. There is a “fix in a can” that can sometimes help. https://www.amazon.com/Restore-0001...ore+8+cylinder,aps,137&sr=8-1&tag=jhdiesel-20
It won’t fix a ton but all the independent testing shows it does help. I’ve added it to a few high mileage engines and had no negative effects, slight improvements in a couple, no noticeable changes in a couple.
Your smoking- you said it smells of fuel- but if there is also a smell of oil, that can be engine oil getting past the valve guides and leaving a bit of oil to burn the next day when you start it. But from your smell description, we are chasing the fueling issues.
The timing marks lining up is correct IF the timing chain is brand new.
But the timing chain stretches dramatically in these. That causes the camshaft, the valves and the injection to become retarded. Gm never followed it enough to come up with specified intervals. But general consensus became about every 20k-30k miles to put on a timing tool and readjust the timing.
Some folks just do it by ear or by feel.
I don’t think retarded timing alone is enough to cause the shake seen in yours.
Without spending a tremendous amount of time/ money on why- it becomes a question of how much is worth it to correct it.
Something I would caution is the motor mounts suffer tremendously from it and when the driver side fails, the fan shreads the fan gaurd and a few other parts get damaged on occasion.
So I would buy a replacement one (or both preferably) and swap in sometime in the next 6 months.
If you want to dive into it, The shake itself could be unequal compression,
Do a dry compression test only not a wet test on diesels. A cylinder leak down test at same time as compression testing is always smart and these two could reveal the smoking cause.
unbalanced injectors we already discussed. This can be the result as well as smoking, poor power performance, poor mpg, even overheating in extreme cases.
The ip putting out unequal amount of fuel to the cylinders also can be an issue.
Testing this is something done while doing compression test.
A normal compression test is done by first removing all 8 glow plugs. Unplug the glow plug controller harness so they don’t operate.
NORMALLY you unplug the fuel shut off solenoid wire so the ip will have no fuel output. Hook up a battery charger to keep full electrical power for all the cranking that follows.
Using a diesel compression tester, one cylinder at a time you screw in the adapter with hose/gauge assy, crank engine over say 5 or 6 revolutions and write down the reading on the gauge. Move to next cylinder until all 8 are recorded.
If you are trying to check for equal fuel output, you would next undo the hard line from the injectors. Attach 8 identical clean empty bottles (plastic drinking water bottles dried out is a good option) to each hard line and crank the engine over until you have a descent measurable amount. Now remove all 8 and compare volumes. You have to use something at your disposal for as accurate measuring to get the comparison. Some guy use kitchen measuring tools some use a small accurate weight scale. When I had to do this frequently in the shop, I bought the thick glass 100ml measuring beakers that are tall & skinny. Then just used electrical tape to hold each one in place onto the hard lines.
Understand the equal fuel delivery from ip and injectors is this: if one cylinder puts out 10% more fuel, that cylinder will make 10% more power. But the cylinder opposite it in the firing order has to work 10% harder to operate against it so it looses 10% power. Thats how the engine runs unbalanced and looses power& mpg. Different pop pressures in the injectors alters amount of fuel delivered and how well the fuel is vaporized.
Difference in compression works same way in unequal power developed. Remember the compression is how the fuel is ignited. So a couple weak cylinders can have the unburned fuel making the smoke. There is a “fix in a can” that can sometimes help. https://www.amazon.com/Restore-0001...ore+8+cylinder,aps,137&sr=8-1&tag=jhdiesel-20
It won’t fix a ton but all the independent testing shows it does help. I’ve added it to a few high mileage engines and had no negative effects, slight improvements in a couple, no noticeable changes in a couple.
Your smoking- you said it smells of fuel- but if there is also a smell of oil, that can be engine oil getting past the valve guides and leaving a bit of oil to burn the next day when you start it. But from your smell description, we are chasing the fueling issues.
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nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Oh boy
As long as she runs for as long i can, thats my end goal
Ill gladly make any necessary maintenance on it, that being said, I know myself, I am an E4, as much as id love to tear it all down to the ground and rebuilt it up, i know I cant do that.
Ill do anything MX necessary, QoL stuff that isnt needed but is nice though, takes the back seat for now, if that makes sense
As long as she runs for as long i can, thats my end goal
Ill gladly make any necessary maintenance on it, that being said, I know myself, I am an E4, as much as id love to tear it all down to the ground and rebuilt it up, i know I cant do that.
Ill do anything MX necessary, QoL stuff that isnt needed but is nice though, takes the back seat for now, if that makes sense
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
I am keeping this vehicle for the long run.
Im aware of how much new vehicles cost (not including insurance, etc). Therefore ill do anything MX wise to ensure it keeps on going.
Ideally, I would love to teardown and rebuild, but that won't happen for a very long time.
Until then, ill do the required MX stuff that I know I must do to ensure it keeps running, the longer this lasts the better. Even if I get out the Military, I plan on keeping it, ill gladly take it with me back to NYC
Im aware of how much new vehicles cost (not including insurance, etc). Therefore ill do anything MX wise to ensure it keeps on going.
Ideally, I would love to teardown and rebuild, but that won't happen for a very long time.
Until then, ill do the required MX stuff that I know I must do to ensure it keeps running, the longer this lasts the better. Even if I get out the Military, I plan on keeping it, ill gladly take it with me back to NYC
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Harbor freight has a real nice diesel engine compression test kit for not a lot of money. It comes in a case with a
load of GP hole adapters.If it was My wehicle, thats one of the tools I would have setting and ready.
Get one of those sets then run the compression test. Our curious minds is wanting to know them numbers.
Next up for a fairly inexpensive upgrade is that timing chain/sprocket set.
Not knowing the history on my old engine I pulled the timing cover, near a shock mode condition after seeing how much the chain had stretched, could nearly wrap it back onto itself around the Crank sprocket.
Also while it is removed, would cost some bucks but a Fluid Dampener from one of the sponsor sources would create a lot more longevity to Your crank shaft and engine.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
My friend has a diesel compression tester (454 burban bro) Ill see if he's down for said tests.Harbor freight has a real nice diesel engine compression test kit for not a lot of money. It comes in a case with a
If it was My wehicle, thats one of the tools I would have setting and ready.
Get one of those sets then run the compression test. Our curious minds is wanting to know them numbers.
Next up for a fairly inexpensive upgrade is that timing chain/sprocket set.
Not knowing the history on my old engine I pulled the timing cover, near a shock mode condition after seeing how much the chain had stretched, could nearly wrap it back onto itself around the Crank sprocket.
Also while it is removed, would cost some bucks but a Fluid Dampener from one of the sponsor sources would create a lot more longevity to Your crank shaft and engine.
Dear Lord id hate to even do a timing on that, he's good, but he's not that good, even then, he's a gasser tech, not a diesel one. Only reason he even knows my motor like that is due to the fact that its similar to his old 350sb
Also, ive been running a fluidampr for 2 years now
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Going to the Badlands to watch the sunrise
How it started; https://photos.app.goo.gl/jEThaXg8fAJPsfZ27
How it ran (got it close to 100MPH)
Lmk
How it started; https://photos.app.goo.gl/jEThaXg8fAJPsfZ27
How it ran (got it close to 100MPH)
Lmk
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Appears the smoke has diminished considerably.
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Tbf, it was also night time, not alot to see in general
nycxjeremyy
Well-Known Member
Personally, I think you might need to except you have a 30+ year old motor, weak rings, slick cylinder walls, IP wore, among other things, until you go through the inside of the motor not much is going to change... Such is life...
jrsavoie
Recruit
I'd get it close and run it until it pukes. Might go another 200,000 miles .
I'd slap a bypass filter on & run synthetic oil it to slow future wear.
I'd slap a bypass filter on & run synthetic oil it to slow future wear.