MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I’ll get a pic of them and post it up.
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Help a Brother Out #2
- Thread starter Jaryd
- Start date
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
They all are marked 10.5 volts so I am sure that they are 60Gs.
I didnt know the history on this truck so I installed new injectors and GPs. These looked too good to toss. Poked them into the boxes and have had them setting in the tool box ever since.
A couple of pics.
I didnt know the history on this truck so I installed new injectors and GPs. These looked too good to toss. Poked them into the boxes and have had them setting in the tool box ever since.
A couple of pics.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If You want them, I will wire brush the threads and apply a good coating of antiseize to the threads. I have got plenty of that here.
Not a problem getting them mailed. PO is about a 1/2 a mile from the house.
Not a problem getting them mailed. PO is about a 1/2 a mile from the house.
@MrMarty51 I appreciate it . I can't believe all the help I'm getting from you guys..
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
PM me Your addy, I’ll ship it out tomorrow morning.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I used a brass wire brush and brushed off the diesel soot from them GPs. I think the PO must not have tightened them to spec.
Probably be a good idea to check the torque on them after a couple or three cool down cycles, with the engine cold, at ambient air temp.
Remove the left side inner fender and they all can be got to. Leave it off until You are satisfied that the GPs are not leaking combustion.
Best to have a thread chaser on hand. I had a couple that when I went to screw in the new GPs, it got so tjat they wuz difficult to turn. Got a thread chaser, cleaned the threads and they then screwed right in. Carbon from combustion leaks was plugging the threads.
Do jot get a thread tap. The tap will cut material away from the threads. You want only to clean and press any deformed material back into position.
Call the parts stores for a chaser, specify to them You do not want a tap. If the parts stores cant get one then call the local Mac tool sales person or possibly the Matco truck too.
The one I have is from NAPA but it is an adjustable unit. It took a little bit of adjusting to get it right but once I got the size set it worked great.
It was a bit expensive though, I thought, about $25.00.
Probably be a good idea to check the torque on them after a couple or three cool down cycles, with the engine cold, at ambient air temp.
Remove the left side inner fender and they all can be got to. Leave it off until You are satisfied that the GPs are not leaking combustion.
Best to have a thread chaser on hand. I had a couple that when I went to screw in the new GPs, it got so tjat they wuz difficult to turn. Got a thread chaser, cleaned the threads and they then screwed right in. Carbon from combustion leaks was plugging the threads.
Do jot get a thread tap. The tap will cut material away from the threads. You want only to clean and press any deformed material back into position.
Call the parts stores for a chaser, specify to them You do not want a tap. If the parts stores cant get one then call the local Mac tool sales person or possibly the Matco truck too.
The one I have is from NAPA but it is an adjustable unit. It took a little bit of adjusting to get it right but once I got the size set it worked great.
It was a bit expensive though, I thought, about $25.00.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Thread dia. Is 10mm and pitch is 1.0
Thinking about it. You might be able to soak a firearms bore brush in some solvent, poke that in the hole and give it a few turns. That might clean the carbon from the threads.
10mm is about 3/8ths of an inch, what caliber to use ? Like about a 0.380 ? I dont rightly know. Math aint my favorite subject. Somebody in here most likely might know.
If it were Me, I would avoid spraying solvent of any kind directly into tje GP hole, that might cause a run away condition.
Thinking about it. You might be able to soak a firearms bore brush in some solvent, poke that in the hole and give it a few turns. That might clean the carbon from the threads.
10mm is about 3/8ths of an inch, what caliber to use ? Like about a 0.380 ? I dont rightly know. Math aint my favorite subject. Somebody in here most likely might know.
If it were Me, I would avoid spraying solvent of any kind directly into tje GP hole, that might cause a run away condition.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Harbor Freight sells these round brushes. might these work with some solvent? or even the old fashioned battery terminal round wire brush.
just crank here over a couple times before installing the GP's just to blow any solvent and suck out of the cylinders!
just crank here over a couple times before installing the GP's just to blow any solvent and suck out of the cylinders!
jrsavoie
Recruit
I would not spray any kind of solvent in there. I would use Any kind of lubricating oil.
A couple of cranks with the glow plugs out after cleaning should empty the cylinders out enough to avoid unwanted firing of cylinders..
M10x1 thread chaser is good to know. I often chase threads of things that need to be torqued.
Does anybody have a link to a M10x1 thread chaser or set that containes one? I found thread chasing dies, but no taps
I never really thought about using thread chasers instead of taps and dies. I don't have many thread chasers here.
I never believed you could get proper torque with dirty threads.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
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MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Yup. The GPs is a sparking plug size and thread pitch.
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dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I wonder if one of those sizes match the threads for the injectors ! that might be a nice to have set for our tool boxes.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I can see where there might be times when that hex bolster and a socket could get in your way..I've had times where a tap socket would not fit and I had to use a square, 8 point or 12 point socket to run a tap.
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- Staff
- #534
In a pinch I have taken a bolt of the correct thread and cut long ways slots in the thread to just below the root diameter with a thin cutoff wheel in the die grinder leaving a sharp edge at the slot sides. 2 at 180° or 3 at 120° works as a pretty good chaser.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Ok... we all get to chasing a rabbit hole and often the info/ tool/ part isn’t needed. So:
NEVER TRY CLEANING A GLOW OR SPARK PLUG HOLE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO. the odds are WAY against you. Statistically you are going to do more damage than good. This is a repair only done when needed.
This is probably the case here. If after you break the glow plug free and use the socket to go 2 full revolutions you can remove the plug by hand- you don’t need to do anything else.
If the threads are rusty enough you have to use the ratchet the whole way out- then you do need to clean up the threads.
Always start with the bottle brush technique first. Don’t spray anything down the hole. Spray wd40 or whatever you are using as a penetrating oil onto the brush which hopefully you have a little cordless drill that can hold it, otherwise your forearms will be tired when done. You want the outside diameter of the brush same size as the glow plug ir slightly smaller if possible. Push the brush in and try running it in reverse the whole time if possible. That will have the brush pushing the garbage out the threads instead of into the block. Don’t think the drill needs 2,000 rpm That just flings wd40 everywhere, slow speed is fine. 20 seconds and pull it out, spray more wd40 on the brush and do it again.
With a non-rusty glowplug, try hand threading it in. When it goes in all the way by hand, you are done. A trick to hand threading in or starting a glowplug or spark plug and not cross threading or just simply getting it to start in hard to reach angles: slip a 6” to 12” piece of vacuum hose on the end where the socket goes. I can’t believe how many of these Mac Tools spark plug starters I sold when I was the tool guy. Ift guilty and told everyone “you know you can just use a piece of vacuum hose, right?” 90% still bought the thing for $14.99 instead of $2 worth of hose. (See pic)
Back to the rabbit hole- lets go deeper and this time take a left at Albuquerque in honor of buggs bunny..
What if yours are so rusty you had to use a propane torch to heat the glow plug enoung to remove it? The bottle brush (brass is best) didn’t get the job done after 5 minutes of drill spinning. Then you still should not use a regular thread chaser and NEVER A NORMAL TAP!!! This is where this tool comes into play. It’s pricey and you use it once, then it sits forever in the bottom of the tool box, Then 20 years later you sell it later for $5 at a yard sale. Look close at the threads. They collapse and expand. You spray wd40 on it, collapse them, slip in the hole, expand them and unscrew it from the hole. Rinse with wd40 and do it again. Then go back to the brush 1 time only for a couple seconds. Then try the glow plug by hand, preferably with you $18,000 mac tools chunk of rubber hose. Haha
How often this tool is actually needed? Almost never. If it is zombie day and I could not get this tool, but really needed to- can you use a normal thread chaser- yup. But I would supply shop air into the intake manifold so it is blowing out the glow plug hole non stop while i used it.
Remember you are removing metal/ rust and whatever you don’t get out that hole- is going straight down the cylinder walls scratching it up and throwing your compression out the window. Think how picky you would be if a new engine had a single scratch going vertically in the cylinder wall. And you are about to add maybe 40 scratches before that part gets ejected. Remember how ai started.
NEVER TRY CLEANING A GLOW OR SPARK PLUG HOLE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO.
NEVER TRY CLEANING A GLOW OR SPARK PLUG HOLE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO. the odds are WAY against you. Statistically you are going to do more damage than good. This is a repair only done when needed.
This is probably the case here. If after you break the glow plug free and use the socket to go 2 full revolutions you can remove the plug by hand- you don’t need to do anything else.
If the threads are rusty enough you have to use the ratchet the whole way out- then you do need to clean up the threads.
Always start with the bottle brush technique first. Don’t spray anything down the hole. Spray wd40 or whatever you are using as a penetrating oil onto the brush which hopefully you have a little cordless drill that can hold it, otherwise your forearms will be tired when done. You want the outside diameter of the brush same size as the glow plug ir slightly smaller if possible. Push the brush in and try running it in reverse the whole time if possible. That will have the brush pushing the garbage out the threads instead of into the block. Don’t think the drill needs 2,000 rpm That just flings wd40 everywhere, slow speed is fine. 20 seconds and pull it out, spray more wd40 on the brush and do it again.
With a non-rusty glowplug, try hand threading it in. When it goes in all the way by hand, you are done. A trick to hand threading in or starting a glowplug or spark plug and not cross threading or just simply getting it to start in hard to reach angles: slip a 6” to 12” piece of vacuum hose on the end where the socket goes. I can’t believe how many of these Mac Tools spark plug starters I sold when I was the tool guy. Ift guilty and told everyone “you know you can just use a piece of vacuum hose, right?” 90% still bought the thing for $14.99 instead of $2 worth of hose. (See pic)
Back to the rabbit hole- lets go deeper and this time take a left at Albuquerque in honor of buggs bunny..
What if yours are so rusty you had to use a propane torch to heat the glow plug enoung to remove it? The bottle brush (brass is best) didn’t get the job done after 5 minutes of drill spinning. Then you still should not use a regular thread chaser and NEVER A NORMAL TAP!!! This is where this tool comes into play. It’s pricey and you use it once, then it sits forever in the bottom of the tool box, Then 20 years later you sell it later for $5 at a yard sale. Look close at the threads. They collapse and expand. You spray wd40 on it, collapse them, slip in the hole, expand them and unscrew it from the hole. Rinse with wd40 and do it again. Then go back to the brush 1 time only for a couple seconds. Then try the glow plug by hand, preferably with you $18,000 mac tools chunk of rubber hose. Haha
How often this tool is actually needed? Almost never. If it is zombie day and I could not get this tool, but really needed to- can you use a normal thread chaser- yup. But I would supply shop air into the intake manifold so it is blowing out the glow plug hole non stop while i used it.
Remember you are removing metal/ rust and whatever you don’t get out that hole- is going straight down the cylinder walls scratching it up and throwing your compression out the window. Think how picky you would be if a new engine had a single scratch going vertically in the cylinder wall. And you are about to add maybe 40 scratches before that part gets ejected. Remember how ai started.
NEVER TRY CLEANING A GLOW OR SPARK PLUG HOLE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO.
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dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Yipes!! I have only seen this on some of the equipment at work. the last one had an exhaust leak where soot got into the air cleaner and choked it off. you's doesn't look that dirty to cause that. maybe cheap quality filter looking at the end cap had torn also.
I hope it didn't dust your engine.
I hope it didn't dust your engine.
jrsavoie
Recruit
What brand of filter?