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Help a Brother Out #2

Jaryd

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Hodges, SC
It was mentioned that we might should start another thread for Stoney. I agree so that it doesn’t get to confusing being mixed in with the other post in that thread. @btfarm is there a way y’all could have a section titled “Help a Brother Out” and then someone can start threads under that section?

The original thread that Stoney started is 24 pages long and I’m sure some stuff has been fixed and others have not. It might help if @Stoney could post a run down of the issues that you are having right now. Maybe the most important issues like the brake problems and the parts that you might need and then go from there? Sorry Stoney, not trying to put you on the spot here. Im not very good at putting something like this together but I know that there are several guys on this forum that are wanting to help out anyway they can.

Forgot to post the original thread.
 
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@Jaryd
I'm not even sure where to start. The main thing I think I screwed up on (before joining TTS) is the brake system.. I bought everything from AutoZone. Mostly dura last parts.. pads, calipers ,rotors , drums, shoes, wheel cylinders. Master cylinder, hydro boost. Brake hoses. And power steering pump. All duralast parts.
Then I bought the temp sensor and the sensor behind the pulley and power steering pump that goes in to block. From the same place. Ignition to.
I have no clue where to start replacing stuff.
The other problem I have right now is somewhere in the dash there is a short. Not sure if it's all one harness or multiple. But if I jiggle the wires behind the heater control the heater will come on and off. It will effect make the ignition quit working till I wiggle the wires again.. not sure if it's all the same harness but the accelerator is touchy.. sometimes it is perfectly responsive.. other times I can be driving down the road let off the accelerator for a second not even touch the brakes or anything, and when I push the accelerator again it goes halfway to the floor before it responds at all. And a little bit down the road I can do the same thing again and when I let off it and then push back on it it's extremely responsive again.
The brake pedal is the same way sometimes it feels like it's got perfect breaks other times the pedal is squishy and doesn't come back up very quick.
I'm more lost than Brandon I mean Biden on where to start trying to fix stuff
 
I don't know if anybody would know this.. I'm assuming the brake light switch is hooked into the same wiring harness as everything else I.e. the accelerator, and all the other stuff under /in the dashboard. Is it in any way possible that a bad wire is causing all this and affecting all this stuff.
 
The problem I run into is I can't have my truck undrivable for more than a few hours at a time.. I can't take stuff apart and say I'll finish this tomorrow. If I take something apart I have to know I have anything and everything I could possibly need to fix whatever I took apart cause once it's apart I have no way to get to a store of any kind ..there's nothing within walking distance except a DG.
 
And it is a real cluster under them dashes too.
Might be best to just remove as much of the dash as possible. The instruments, the front and the top. Then You can get a much better visual of what is going on back there.
I have had the entire dash pulled apart on My truck. Not terrible difficult and I was able to locate grounds and tighten them up.
Removed the jockey box unit and could see back in there some too.
 
all your brake operation other than the ABS should all be mechanical where any wiring issues couldn't effect the spongy operation. with the random spongy pedal, I am wondering if your ABS unit is on the brink. having an air pocket trapped inside plus something in the wiring causing the abs motors to cycle at the wrong time.
 
for starters unless others have different ideas, try disconnecting ALL electrical connectors from the ABS unit and driving. see if you still get the spongy feeling. but if possible do it when your brakes have a good feeling to them. if it stays that way, we might have a starting point. safety first, lets get it to stop when you need to!
 
@Stoney Do you have any tools to read codes and things like the APP (accelerator pedal position sensor)?

@dbrannon79 from his suggestion: Pull the ABS fuse. This will eliminate ABS going off from say a busted tone ring on a wheel cylinder.

Slow pedal return could be a bad hydrobooster OR a restriction of any kind on the return hose from the hydrobooster. Do you have a in-line filter on any return hose?

I would add a ground from the blower motor to the cab. You have cleaned all the grounds and checked battery cables including the ground strap from the engine to the frame? Oh the hell with the GM ground strap: make a new ground from the frame to the engine and one from the cab firewall to the engine. Off the shelf battery cables will do the job. Do not hook the ground straps on any other grounds: use different locations. And not near the alternator. All details of location of the new straps away from things due to "noise" on the electrical system.
 
@WarWagon I don't own any electrical stuff for codes or voltage testing. Except the voltage tester for wiring houses.. that has a couple dc current settings but don't know what they do or mean... remember your talking to someone who has basic antenna TV because I can't understand cable box programming. This phone is the only electronic I use cause I don't understand any of them and people always want to short hand explanations or abbreviat thing things I know what these initials mean..
What is a tone ring?
 
I just unplugged all 3 plugs from the abs. Taking it for a ride...it's 1:09 am here so nothing else to do... Here's the strange thing I started the truck and it has not thrown an ABS code on the dash
 
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