My reasoning for going with the cummins CAC was because it will fit in the location the existing AC condenser is in and not relocating the oil or transmission coolers at all. The only modifications needed are to remove material from the core support for the CAC inlet and outlet and figure out how to secure it. Seems pretty straightforward in my mind.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
HE351VE with functional VGT on 1997 6.5L
- Thread starter Chewy1576
- Start date
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I my adventure I had changed out the grille and all front lights so the 2nd Gen Ram Cummins CAC would fit w/o much cutting. This CAC occupies the area where the AC condenser was and it does not protrude past the leading edge of the radiator support meaning you coolers will bolt right up as they did from factory.
I am getting to the HVAC soon and have figured that the GMT425 condenser will need little space created by re-leaving the back of the grill grate with a drimel however; worst case would be extending the grill grate a few inches forward by fabricating a composite spacer.
Front bumper can start as an old WARN Classic modified to your taste.
I am getting to the HVAC soon and have figured that the GMT425 condenser will need little space created by re-leaving the back of the grill grate with a drimel however; worst case would be extending the grill grate a few inches forward by fabricating a composite spacer.
Front bumper can start as an old WARN Classic modified to your taste.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
So much info on adding the inner cooler, maybe should be it’s own thread. I’m sure many people want to see how to do it but would never find it under this thread title.
On the dodge inner cooler, years back I got a new one that came out of a truck because the guy was putting in a better flowing aftermarket one. It was bolt in, so depending on cost wouldn’t it make sense to get one like he did instead of the factory unit? Of course if yours was priced like mine, that’s hard to beat.
On the dodge inner cooler, years back I got a new one that came out of a truck because the guy was putting in a better flowing aftermarket one. It was bolt in, so depending on cost wouldn’t it make sense to get one like he did instead of the factory unit? Of course if yours was priced like mine, that’s hard to beat.
I got this one for $90 out of a parts truck. Any universal intercoolers not near this size were $150 or more, so I'm happy with it. No leaks, just some oil residue on the intake side I will flush out before installing. I also plan on taking pictures and measurements along the way for anyone wanting to do this as well.
@FellowTraveler did you have any issues with the core support rod bolts? The seem to stick out quite a bit
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I'm confused what do you mean by core support rod bolts? Diagonal radiator support rods maybe, or?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
OK, just trim them that's and paint the cut edge to prevent rust.
I still have some fitting to do, but it's mostly there. The big issue now is the inlet tube interferes with the lower radiator hose. Any ideas on how to get the radiator to sit lower to clear it without more cutting of the core support?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Umm, use a spacer and raise the CAC an inch or so?
It's tight against the top of the core support.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
I seem to recall somewhere back in the the deep, fuzzy recesses of my mind that someone else on here had done the 2nd Gen Dodge CAC and had cut and then heliarc welded a "bump" into the aluminum inlet to clear the lower hose. That small of an intrusion would barely affect the flow through that monster.
I'm more inclined to have the inlet tube modified than cutting into the core support more and dropping the radiator down to clear the tube.
Earlier today I was working with a fabricator to modify a 2.5" crossover pipe to clear the front driveshaft of a lifted truck. He said he deals mainly with aluminum, I bet he wouldn't have an issue handling that.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
It would be easy-peasy. Either cut the section out to provide the clearance then flip it over (so the convex section is now concave) and heliarc it back in place OR cut the inlet off at a slight angle (5°-10°) before the point where the interference begins (like cutting a straight pipe at a 45° angle, rotating it and welding it so that you now have a 90° elbow, but obviously this isn't as drastic, it will be a 10°-20° total bend), rotate it 180° and reweld it so that the inlet now angles slightly up and away from the lower radiator hose. Voilà! No more interference with the lower radiator hose, no reduction in inlet cross section and the joys of silicone flex pressure hose - alignment with the inlet duct from the turbo!
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
This is why you need a 2nd gen Cummins radiator I seem to remember I mentioned this. The lower hose on the 2nd gen rad is higher to clear CAC.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Does a 2nd Gen Dodge radiator fit into the Chevy radiator support without any major modifications to either one?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Last edited:
Yes you did mention you used the 2nd gen radiator with your intercooler, but I want to use the stock radiator. There are two coolant ports on my radiator not on the cummins one, and the transmission cooler, and I'm not sure how much the cooling system would like having two caps.
Last edited: