• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

HE351VE with functional VGT on 1997 6.5L

Chewy1576

Well-Known Member
Messages
139
Reaction score
272
Hey y'all!

I've been browsing around the forum a bit lately so I figured I would introduce myself and share what I have been working on...

With some help from Quadstar Tuning, I have installed an HE351VE turbo from a 6.7L Cummins on my 6.5L. Quadstar built the exhaust manifold adapter, downpipe elbow to fit a Diamond Eye downpipe, high flow upper intake, oil drain tube, and a few other small parts to bolt the turbo to the engine. This turbo also has coolant flow to cool the actuator, so I drilled and tapped the side coolant ports to accept hose barbs so I could tie in to the heater core coolant circuit.

I have seen other HE351VE installs, but none that utilized the electronic VGT actuator. To make it functional, I used a Banshee VGT Controller from Steed Tech. Using drive and boost pressure sensor readings, it drives the actuator to use the VGT vanes to maintain a specified drive to boost pressure ratio. I can set a high ratio at low boost to help spoil up the turbo, the lower the ratio at higher boost pressures for increased efficiency. The two 150 psi sensors were mounted on to a small sensor manifold block on the firewall by the hydroboost unit and 1/4" copper tube was ran from the exhaust and intake manifolds to feed the sensors.

The combination runs very well. The controller is very good at maintaining the specified ratio (I'm still experimenting. I have ran aggressive high to low variable ratio, straight 1:1 ratio, and even 0.8:1 ratio configurations with great results. It's crazy to see more boost pressure than drive pressure).

Now that the install is complete and stable, I'm looking for ways to improve. I'm focusing on the air intake side of things, namely air intake to the turbo, and a charge air cooler, both with goals of maximizing air flow and minimizing air temperatures. I'm planning to relocate both batteries to the bed of the truck and using that space to build a CAI on the passenger side. Second, I have an intercooler from a 2003 duramax truck on the way. Ive read that this CAC will fit in the front cooling stack with the least amount of modifications to the core support. The AC in my truck is already inoperable because the dryer had to be removed for turbo downpipe clearance, so the condenser can come out as well. I will figure out aftermarket solutions to get the AC working again at another time. Once I have the intercooler set, I will figure out how to route the 3" tubes from the turbo, to the IC, then to the intake. The compressor housing was modified for side exit into the high flow upper intake, but I have another stock forward exit housing available as well.

What do you guys think? Am I nuts? Any tips for getting the IC to fit as best as possible?
 

jrsavoie

Recruit
Messages
6,081
Reaction score
1,294
Location
Rural Clifton, Illinois
Hey y'all!

I've been browsing around the forum a bit lately so I figured I would introduce myself and share what I have been working on...

With some help from Quadstar Tuning, I have installed an HE351VE turbo from a 6.7L Cummins on my 6.5L. Quadstar built the exhaust manifold adapter, downpipe elbow to fit a Diamond Eye downpipe, high flow upper intake, oil drain tube, and a few other small parts to bolt the turbo to the engine. This turbo also has coolant flow to cool the actuator, so I drilled and tapped the side coolant ports to accept hose barbs so I could tie in to the heater core coolant circuit.

I have seen other HE351VE installs, but none that utilized the electronic VGT actuator. To make it functional, I used a Banshee VGT Controller from Steed Tech. Using drive and boost pressure sensor readings, it drives the actuator to use the VGT vanes to maintain a specified drive to boost pressure ratio. I can set a high ratio at low boost to help spoil up the turbo, the lower the ratio at higher boost pressures for increased efficiency. The two 150 psi sensors were mounted on to a small sensor manifold block on the firewall by the hydroboost unit and 1/4" copper tube was ran from the exhaust and intake manifolds to feed the sensors.

The combination runs very well. The controller is very good at maintaining the specified ratio (I'm still experimenting. I have ran aggressive high to low variable ratio, straight 1:1 ratio, and even 0.8:1 ratio configurations with great results. It's crazy to see more boost pressure than drive pressure).

Now that the install is complete and stable, I'm looking for ways to improve. I'm focusing on the air intake side of things, namely air intake to the turbo, and a charge air cooler, both with goals of maximizing air flow and minimizing air temperatures. I'm planning to relocate both batteries to the bed of the truck and using that space to build a CAI on the passenger side. Second, I have an intercooler from a 2003 duramax truck on the way. Ive read that this CAC will fit in the front cooling stack with the least amount of modifications to the core support. The AC in my truck is already inoperable because the dryer had to be removed for turbo downpipe clearance, so the condenser can come out as well. I will figure out aftermarket solutions to get the AC working again at anothwondered if thereer time. Owas a way to stretch the front end4nce I have the intercooler set, I will figure out how to route the 3" tubes from the turbo, to the IC, then to the intake. The compressor housing was modified for side exit into the high flow upper intake, but I have another stock forward exit housing available as well.

What do you guys think? Am I nuts? Any tips for getting the IC to fit as best as possible?
I have always wondered if there was a good way to add 4" or so to the front end. And have it look good
 

Chewy1576

Well-Known Member
Messages
139
Reaction score
272
Well bummer.....

Turns out the intercooler I bought from eBay was damaged, so the order was cancelled. I guess this could be a blessing in disguise. Is the 01-05 intercooler the best one to go with, or is another one a better fit? I will be removing the AC condenser before install so all that should be needed is trimming the core support and whatever needs to be done to route piping to the turbo and intake.
 

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Vendor
Messages
2,718
Reaction score
3,765
Location
Pauline, SC
Good to see ya here Shawn, as you may know I have had this planed for some time now, my P400 is going together now, ( keep watching for the build thread soon ) maybe this spring I will have mine going as well. I will need to pick your brain on the censor's you used, I already have my controller updated so I'm good there..

I'm using a old no longer available banks mannie so I will be able to keep my AC, couldn't do without it here in the humid south.. the mannie moves the turbo forward so the exhaust flange is at the cdr, so their is plenty of room for a down pipe..

007.JPG

I hate to chop up the front radiator support so I go the skid plate way for charge coolers...

And I offer a bolt in cooler kit as well...

002.JPG
 

Chewy1576

Well-Known Member
Messages
139
Reaction score
272
Good to see its coming together! It sounds like it is going to be a beast of an engine when it's all done.

My controller came with two 150 psi Honeywell transducers, I can get a part number off of them later if you want. The controller allows for many different sensor configurations as well, so you could run 50, 75, 100, etc psi rated sensors if you want. You specify what you are using in the configuration and it sets up the 0-5v scaling accordingly.

I originally had that same manifold adapter for my turbo, but John was afraid of interference so he had me return it and built the taller pedestal adapter that put the turbo further up and out from the engine. Now that it is all installed, I see the original adapter would have worked fine. Not saying what I have doesn't work, it works very well, and gave me somewhere to drill and tap ports for the EGT probe and drive pressure tube, but could have given more wiggle room for other things.

I noticed you had an intercooler kit available, but I see things the opposite, I would rather hack up the core support than hang an intercooler below the bumper. Ditching the condenser should help a lot with clearance as well so I won't have to do as much hacking. I will eventually get the AC system functioning again, as summers here in UT get pretty brutal, but I can live without it for now. I have explored A2W intercoolers as well. I originally wanted to put the heat exchanger back below the bed, but if I'm removing the condenser I could put a heat exchanger in its place also. I already have a workable intercooler, it was just the water side I wasn't sure about.
1573601102823.png
 

n8in8or

I never met a project I didn’t like
Messages
3,311
Reaction score
5,004
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
I came across a 2nd gen Cummins IC as well. Which one would work best in front of the radiator?
@FellowTraveler was always a fan of using a Cummins IC (not sure which generation) in the GMT400. I’m not sure if he ended up using it in his Suburban or not. Hopefully he’ll chime in.

Thanks for sharing your setup with us, that’s pretty slick!
 

Chewy1576

Well-Known Member
Messages
139
Reaction score
272
@FellowTraveler was always a fan of using a Cummins IC (not sure which generation) in the GMT400. I’m not sure if he ended up using it in his Suburban or not. Hopefully he’ll chime in.

Thanks for sharing your setup with us, that’s pretty slick!
Thanks! I have had a lot of fun with it so far. I know of a few more 6.5L owners that are gearing up for a VGT turbo as well. I noticed that Diesel Power Source (also here in UT) is marketing an S300/S400 based VGT exhaust housing, with either mechanical (drive pressure) or electronic actuation. This could make VGT on a 6.5L even easier, as they come with a T3 flange. It would bolt right to the manifold, no adapters needed.

I found a post where @FellowTraveler said he used a 2nd gen Cummins radiator and intercooler. I'm not opposed to swapping the radiator as well, but if the IC will fit around the existing radiator, why mess with it? I'm going to switch to LED park lights in the grill to gain clearance instead of trimming the existing ones. They look like they are more shallow without the plug sticking out the back.

Next step is going to be relocating the batteries to the bed. This will make a ton of room behind the core support for CAC pipes, as well as a legitimate CAI. I already have 2 awg cable, just need a box and terminals.
 

n8in8or

I never met a project I didn’t like
Messages
3,311
Reaction score
5,004
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thanks! I have had a lot of fun with it so far. I know of a few more 6.5L owners that are gearing up for a VGT turbo as well. I noticed that Diesel Power Source (also here in UT) is marketing an S300/S400 based VGT exhaust housing, with either mechanical (drive pressure) or electronic actuation. This could make VGT on a 6.5L even easier, as they come with a T3 flange. It would bolt right to the manifold, no adapters needed.

I found a post where @FellowTraveler said he used a 2nd gen Cummins radiator and intercooler. I'm not opposed to swapping the radiator as well, but if the IC will fit around the existing radiator, why mess with it? I'm going to switch to LED park lights in the grill to gain clearance instead of trimming the existing ones. They look like they are more shallow without the plug sticking out the back.

Next step is going to be relocating the batteries to the bed. This will make a ton of room behind the core support for CAC pipes, as well as a legitimate CAI. I already have 2 awg cable, just need a box and terminals.
I’m going to be relocating my batteries as well for my dually build - it will be nice to have all that real estate freed up in the engine compartment. I also want to do something about the factory coolant tank and then move the AC accumulator over further.

Yeah if you can fit the Cummins IC around a factory radiator that sounds like a good move. I’m still a fan of the WTA so I’m going to keep that setup, but I am interested in seeing ATA options that aren’t below the bumper.
 

FellowTraveler

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,536
Reaction score
3,681
Location
Nature Coast
Thanks! I have had a lot of fun with it so far. I know of a few more 6.5L owners that are gearing up for a VGT turbo as well. I noticed that Diesel Power Source (also here in UT) is marketing an S300/S400 based VGT exhaust housing, with either mechanical (drive pressure) or electronic actuation. This could make VGT on a 6.5L even easier, as they come with a T3 flange. It would bolt right to the manifold, no adapters needed.

I found a post where @FellowTraveler said he used a 2nd gen Cummins radiator and intercooler. I'm not opposed to swapping the radiator as well, but if the IC will fit around the existing radiator, why mess with it? I'm going to switch to LED park lights in the grill to gain clearance instead of trimming the existing ones. They look like they are more shallow without the plug sticking out the back.

Next step is going to be relocating the batteries to the bed. This will make a ton of room behind the core support for CAC pipes, as well as a legitimate CAI. I already have 2 awg cable, just need a box and terminals.
Actually the 2nd Gen Ram Cummins CAC hoses are under the battery boxes so the box mounts need to be relieved that is all the passenger Ram Cummins IC pipes couplers and trubo elbow all fit within the GMT400 series.

The Ram Cummins 2nd Gen radiator and CAC fit with minor modifications to the radiator support.

As the grill goes the GM or CHEVY sealed beam mil/commercial grills w/their trun signals etc. work just fine.
 
Top