Stupid question, but I assume the Puff Limiter (the picture of the instructions referred to 6.9/7.3 IP's) will bolt on and function with our 6.5 DB2 pumps and that you already checked with Hypermax about that?
Another stupid question. Couldn't they have installed it when you bought the Moose from them? Does your installing the Puff Limiter affect the Moose's warranty?
He would probably install it if you asked when ordering a pump.
He definitely stands behind his work.
Hypermax doesn't list it as working on the 6.2/6.5, but it should be the same.
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So interestingly, while I was talking to Joel about some other stuff he said, "Something else I just remembered that I wanted to mention. The puff limiter is designed for the Ford DB2. We have used them on GM applications with one note. The cold start solenoid terminal connector will foul your throttle shaft. This will leave you with two options: Delete the cold start solenoid and just use a nut and bolt with the supplied insulator to block it off. With the extra fuel provided I think you will warm up sufficiently without the extra advance. If you go this route be sure to use lock tite on the hardware to prevent it vibrating loose. The other option would be to cut the end off of the cold start solenoid terminal and shorten your attachments accordingly and perhaps clearance the throttle shaft slightly to make room."
I'm glad he mentioned that because I definitely had clearance issues between the cold advance solenoid and the throttle arm. It would be super tough to make it clear the throttle arm so I went with the deletion route. I installed a Phillips head screw with the head facing out to try to gain as much clearance as possible. I also installed Red Loctite on the threads so that nut will NOT come off. During test fit I found that the arm was still rubbing the screw head so I used a dremel to grind some clearance into the head. Even then I had to bend the throttle arm away from the pump to get final clearance! Getting that taken care of took a bit of time. Then I started looking at the clearance of the aneroid to the intake and the barb was pretty tight to the plenum. It's a super small thread on that (1/16" NPT?) so there was no way I was finding an elbow last night. So I trimmed the end of the fitting just past the barb. Unfortunately I only got a "before" pic and not an "after" pic, but I think you can picture what I did. That gained me about 1/8". It's a tight fit but it doesn't kink and since the hose is under pressure and not vacuum that will help keep the hose open.
I had to take the intercooler, AC compressor, coolant crossover and fast idle solenoid off to get access to the pump, so in all the job took about 2.5 hours to complete. I neglected to do the initial setup that Hypermax recommends which is: turn the aneroid in until it starts lowering idle, then back it out 1 turn.
So despite that, here are my initial impressions: I can still make a pretty good cloud if I tromp on it before boost comes on. However just going up hills in a high gear it is much more civilized. Also, it has turned the throttle into a much more linear progression. Before, not much off idle I could really pull strong, now I have to give it more throttle to feel that. That makes sense to me since the puff limiter holds back the fuel valve until boost is up. I did another 0-70-ish run just going around the block. This time I had my brother and a more or less full tank of fuel in the truck, so about 400 pounds more? My butt dyno said it was slower, but that's just my butt dyno. I'll do some actual testing to see how it really compares once I have it fully set. If it operates how designed, it should not affect overall performance, in fact if anything it should improve it because it doesn't flood the engine with fuel at the initial hit of the throttle. I am going to email Joel and get his thoughts on the travel of the aneroid versus how much the governor arm travels and make sure that it couldn't actually restrict overall travel. That's just a side note, I have no verification at all that it actually is slower, it was one hit with more weight based on a butt dyno!
The other thing I might try is adding a mechanical, click-type wastegate actuator to the supply line. It seems that if it limited fuel until about 8-10 psi instead of the 5-ish psi that it limits it to right now that maybe I'd puff less. They're cheap enough (like $20) that it would probably be a worthwhile experiment.
Yes, Conestoga absolutely would have installed the Puff Limiter. In fact, that is typically their preference, but he didn't object to me installing it myself since I showed I had some mechanical capability. I wanted to install it myself for the purposes of testing and to save some money up front. I wasn't 100% sure that I would need it when I conceived this project, so I didn't want to spend the extra money. But if I did need it, I wanted to see a before and after comparison of how it reacted and share that. That's why I didn't have them install it. Once I get it tweaked I will do a full comparison for you guys. If I don't lose any full output power, yet it reduces light throttle smoke like it has so far, then I would call it a success, but it by no means appears to kill all smoke. However, in talking with Joel yesterday about some other stuff he mentioned this: The Stanadyne starting fuel spec for a DB2 is 35cc/1000 strokes. Most of their Street level pumps make 50-70cc/1000 strokes. The standard Omega makes 80-100cc/1000 strokes of starting fuel. MY PUMP makes 130cc/1000 strokes at 150 (yes, 1 5 0) rpm! So even if the aneroid is limiting the fueling some, this pump is still making a lot of fuel.
The reason that topic came up is that I'm getting some misfiring and gray smoke at start up, sometimes worse than others. I thought I had some air intrusion into my fuel system, but he's wondering if it's just the engine trying to clean up the extra fuel from cranking. I'm playing around with glow plug time to see if I can affect it. I also installed some good clear tubing on the return last night so I can start keeping track of any air bubbles.
I will continue to fine tune and document this week. It will be a long process because I want to change just one thing at a time, but I will do it since it will be the most meaningful and helpful. BUT, it's killing me to not mess with the trans tuning - I REALLY want to start raising my shift points!!
More soon.
