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Clacking noise

(As it was explained to me) it was supposed to heavily lubricate the system.. The guy I spoke with also asked me how many miles were on mine. Told him"no clue" trucks got 250,000 on it..warned me not to use 911in it ..don't remember why..but I don't use it anyway.
like Will said though you are pushing your luck no matter what untill there replaced.
If I remember right Leroy's set is under 400. With no core charge. But DONT quote me on that.
Will..thanks for answering my long time question...been wondering what your saying referenced.
 
So what I gather is that using some sort of injection cleaner/ lube I isn't really going to help. So I guess I just need to suck up and but some injectors. Another thing is that after I changed the oil and filter the other day the oil pressure has been reading low sometimes. It starts out normal and then after a driving awhile it goes down. Don't now if this could be electrical as I have lot of electrical issues.
 
As your oil warms up it will be thinner and your gauge will show less pressure. Hot oil pressure at idle is the number to be concerned about.
 
GM says hot idle 8 psi minimum. Haha -ridiculous sounding I know, but correct. Anywhere 10-50 is happy numbers. Loose tolerances like an ak47! Maybe one of the engineers was planning on using wheel bearing grease in his.
Ive seen a bunch of these in the fleet running at 15 psi from about 125,000 miles and still run great past 250,000 miles.

A plugged filter can actually raise pressure reading because the filter will bypass and allow more volume to flow through the engine. The added volume in same passageway means more pressure. Also a ton of carbon in the old oil makes it thicker raising pressure.
So the new oil and filter can drop pressure but actually be better lube for the engine.

Did the clacking get way different with the oil change?
A video of the sound would help.
Harbor freight sells a low price mechanics stethoscope- or do the screwdriver to ear trick. Try to focus in where the sound is coming from. Use extreme caution while doing it, having thumb sewed back on sux- trust me.

Adding some Stanandyne lube in for fuel lube and cleaner is best choice for ds4. You can the injectors really crave atf for cleaning and lube. I cant say how Much to run through ds4. Anyone here have a ratio the os will put up with?

The 911 and related cleaners cause any water emulsify into the fuel and does damage by going through the ip and injectors. Leaving it and getting caught in the filter/ separator is best.
 
I’ve done 1/2oz to 1 gallon of fuel on the trans fluid and it didn’t skip a beat so I would think you could go a little more if you wanted to. I’ve added 1oz of 2 stroke oil to 1 gallon of fuel and it never missed a beat.
 
The oil have was going all the way down to zero at a hot idle. I also realized that I had overfilled the oil some when I changed it, so I corrected that tonight. Could that have made the oil pressure low? I don't know if you'll be able to here the clacking noise, since I put some Lucus upper cylinder lubricant with injection cleaners an fuel conditioners I haven't seemed to hear it ad much. It's not letting me upload the video. I'll keep working on it to see if I can get it on. Thanks for all your help.
 
That's one thing I worry about is messing up the injection pump. Since a new one cost a fortune. That's what's kept me from using anything but store bought stuff.
 
You can kinda hear the noise a little bit, but it is definitely not as bad as before. I'll see if I have a video of when it was worse and post that too
 
Definitely hear what your talking about. But I'm going to leave the advise to the guys that have dealt with it before. Because I'm looking to do my injectors also.
 
Can’t id the noise. The occasional no oil pressure hot is big concern.

Pull the belt to reduce noise for narrowing it down closer, just dont run for a full minute. Then put it back on and restart to cycle coolant through. Need a mechanics stethoscope on there. My WAG is lifter to rocker arm noise from lifter not pumping up.

I would really want to put a real oil gauge port where turbo is feed from. This is the end of the line of oil circuit, therefore lowest pressure and volume point. If not there then the rear diagonal opposite location.

What filter and oil brand and weight are you running?
 
With the belt removed, check that the belt tensioner moves free through the loose to tight positions.
That fixed a clacking noise on My enjun when I replaced the tensioner.
 
Mine idols hot at about 30 PSI... On the highway usually around 50 55 PSI. .but we all have to remember there's a lot of room for error there because GM gauges are not exactly reliable.
 
Can’t id the noise. The occasional no oil pressure hot is big concern.

Pull the belt to reduce noise for narrowing it down closer, just dont run for a full minute. Then put it back on and restart to cycle coolant through. Need a mechanics stethoscope on there. My WAG is lifter to rocker arm noise from lifter not pumping up.

I would really want to put a real oil gauge port where turbo is feed from. This is the end of the line of oil circuit, therefore lowest pressure and volume point. If not there then the rear diagonal opposite location.

What filter and oil brand and weight are you running?
The filter is wix and the oil is shell rotella t5 synthetic 15w-40.
 
Mine idols hot at about 30 PSI... On the highway usually around 50 55 PSI. .but we all have to remember there's a lot of room for error there because GM gauges are not exactly reliable.
I was wondering if it could be the gauge, because when I fill up the fuel it goes way past the F.
 
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