Centermount turbo setup on a k3500

[3500_6.5]

Heat the manifolds to 250-300 F, it opens the pores up and the paint sticks better. They dry almost instantly too.

Good idea, didn't think about doing that. Anything that will help it last is worth doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[3500_6.5]

What about having them ceramic coated? It would help with the heat a lot and i would think the corrosion as well.

I hadn't considered doing that. But now that you mentioned it...why not spend more cash!!! Any ideas what kind of money that would be. I've never had anything ceramic coated before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NVW]

I hadn't considered doing that. But now that you mentioned it...why not spend more cash!!! Any ideas what kind of money that would be. I've never had anything ceramic coated before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sctrailrider can likely give you an idea

 

[NVW]

Good idea, didn't think about doing that. Anything that will help it last is worth doing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A commercial sandblaster and painter put me on to this, the paint really sticks.

 

[Will L.]

Last ones i did were shorty headers. $220. Did not pay extra for polishing.

 

[3500_6.5]

Last ones i did were shorty headers. $220. Did not pay extra for polishing.

Not as terrible as I thought it might be. But then again, it might be double that for the added pipes I have. Might have to check into it just to see. Might be surprised I suppose. Good surprised or bad surprised....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Will L.]

Its worth looking into imo. Estimates are usually free...

 

[3500_6.5]

So I was debating on whether or not to paint the aluminum parts on my engine. I like the way the aluminum looks when it's clean and "new", but I don't like the way it looks once it gets the crappy looking coating on the outside of it. So I had decided to paint it all. But then I was reading a thread where someone had painted their aluminum something or another on a ford and people were telling him it was a bad idea bc it holds the heat in then. But on the flip side, I had it mentioned to me that I should paint my intercooler black bc it helps pull the heat out when you are not in motion and the air can't do the job.

So I surfed the web really quick and it seems that the general opinion was pretty much some for it and some against it. As far as the physics of heat, it seems to make sense that painting anything black will help pull the heat out of said painted material. So I decided I am painting the aluminum parts. The front cover is already painted to match the engine. The valve covers, oil filter adapter and intake manifolds will be black to maximize heat extraction from those areas. Plus I think it will look cool[emoji51]

Now onto my actual question. Since the black paint will pull the heat out of the engine, would it be a better idea to paint my pre turbo exhaust white? I realize the ceramic coating would be the best, but I haven't managed to check on a price on that yet. But if I were to just paint it, white would be better than black wouldn't it? I realize exhaust is generally black, and white will be somewhat ugly, but it would all be heat wrapped anyway. But I figure if white is better at reflecting heat, then a high temp white paint would be the ideal color choice. The only question then would be do they even make a high temp white?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Will L.]

The paint material you use will be way more important to heat dispersment than the color.
People get into theoretical arguments all the time. I got sucked into this back in my teenage years. 1 thing will show you.

Take 2 pieces of scrap metal, paint 1 black & 1 white. Heat them up in the oven to the 250. Then pull them out and do temp readings with an infared thermometer every 5 minutes.
The aluminum pieces will cool off quicker if you didnt paint them. Test that also to see.

There is a caviat. For near the same price as diy cearmic, there is a thermal conductive paint.

 

[SmithvilleD]

I also like the appearance of freshly blasted cast aluminum on engines - but over the years I've tired of building an engine & making it look sharp, then the Al oxidizes & also absorbs/stains from oil, etc. For cast aluminum where I'm not concerned about heat transfer properties, I powder coat the parts with a color called "silver sparkle" - turbo comp housing in pic has this color coating. It flows out/cures smooth & doesn't absorb oil or stain. After 10 years, the first parts I did are slightly oxidized compared to freshly coated parts in the same color, but little appearance degradation compared to what blasted clean bare cast Al looks like after 10 years use.

In the second pic, the alternator is relatively new cast aluminum. The Peninsular upper intake is powder coated silver, & the intake manifold was just blasted clean a decade ago & then rattle can cleared (it's got some stains as one would expect). This powder coating is the best solution I've found to keep cast Al engine parts looking close to cast Al for a good ways into the future.

On any cast engine parts, heating/baking the part helps drive out absorbed oils, etc., that are otherwise gonna try volatize out when the engine heats up thru whatever paint/coating you cover the part with. So multiple benefits to heating those parts before coating application.

Like Will's suggestion as a simple, valid way to test heat transfer properties. I sprayed my DMax intercooler with black radiator paint as it's advertised to not interfere with heat transfer (and I wanted the IC black as portions of it show thru the grill). I should try this test on the rad paint to confirm whether or not it impacts heat dissipation.

If Techline coatings still sells their Black Satin header coating to the public, that might be a good compromise for the headers. It's a decent thermal barrier, easy to apply, & very cost effective. IMHO - the marketing statement "doesn't require oven baking" while accurate, did that product a disservice. The idea was that exhaust heat would cure it. The problem was it wasn't any more scratch resistant than common spray paint until cured. So often parts got scratched etc., during install. Oven bake it before install & it toughened up considerably & held up well.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Got any updates here ?

 

[3500_6.5]

Not really. I have all my parts together to get cleaned up and painted. I've had little time to do much on the engine, but the little time I have had I've been buttoning up the actual engine and neglecting the exhaust for the moment. Just got the o rings yesterday to bolt on the oil filter adapter and hopefully will be getting the water pump on as well this weekend. If I get time, hopefully next week I will get back to finishing up the exhaust and get some pictures of the completed set up.

I did come across a van exhaust manifold that I bought for future plans of possibly making an easier setup for others rather than making everything from scratch. Looks like the van manifolds are smaller diameter, looks like maybe 2"? I haven't put a tape measure to it, just compared it to my piping. Might end up being another random 6.5 part that I'll never use, but it was cheap enough I figured I might as well get it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turbonator]

That was an issue I ran into too building my first crossover pipe on my setup. I ended up changing a lot of it and welding in a flexible expansion I grabbed from Orielly's. Works great so far. Maybe a thought 3500? But also, 7.3L Powerstroke pipes aren't bellowed and run a lot hotter and seem to be ok.

newer diesels do not use bellows, because they use slip joints to allow for expansion, from experience, the first time a rigid system sees egts over 1000 degrees, it will cause cracking somewhere in the system guaranteed...

 

[turbonator]

heres a couple pics of the system we built 2 years ago, no problems up til now with it, we used stainless flexis for the up pipes...

 

[n8in8or]

heres a couple pics of the system we built 2 years ago, no problems up til now with it, we used stainless flexis for the up pipes...

No problems up til now.....what problem did you have?

 

[Husker6.5]

I think they mean no problems so far to this point in time; not they had no problems in the past, then they had a problem just now.

 

[n8in8or]

I think they mean no problems so far to this point in time; not they had no problems in the past, then they had a problem just now.

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks

 

[Husker6.5]

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks

Such as, "We fixed the leak in the boat two years ago and we have had no leaks so far up until now." As opposed to, "We fixed the leak in the boat two years ago and we had no leaks so far up until it just started leaking now."

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

newer diesels do not use bellows, because they use slip joints to allow for expansion, from experience, the first time a rigid system sees egts over 1000 degrees, it will cause cracking somewhere in the system guaranteed...

Not entirely true. Some may have switched to slip joints, but even the DURAMAX being sold for the 2016 MY is STILL using bellows for the up pipes for both the up pipes and the EGR tube.

 

[deejaaa]

silly question: why are you running the turbo on top? didn't see it explained.