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Brake upgrades using factory parts for GMT-400(88-00 OBS), and 94-99 DODGE 2500/3500

staatsof

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So I've finished my braking system refurbishment. It was a pretty big repair. I haven't added up all the parts but a good guesstimate is $500 in parts for:

New rotor, pads and SS hoses up front.

All new SS brakelines.

A SS drop hose in the rear.

New backing plates, drums, hardware kit, upgraded cylinders, bearings and seals and the tech bulletin specified brake shoes.

The tech bulletin prop vale was also installed.

Labor, additional supplies, the inner bearings in the rear and a new PS pump to hydroboost because it was leaking came to almost $2K.

The change was immediate but I'm going to make sure the rears are adjusted as they can be so I'm in for one more NC trip as well as their repairing an aluminum step the snapped with the lift. Argh :punch:

To me it's a whole lot better. I'm not done checking it out and I want the step on the driver's door fixed fixed first.

What surprised me were the rotors taken off. They're 3 years old, premium Raybestos with the wiggly slots and two sets of pads have been replaced in way too quickly a time frame or mileage IMHO. I don't know the caliber of that last set of pads because they were an emergency replacement but that's when the system really went down hill. The rotors look burnished a shinny black so I can imagine that the coefficient of friction was just awful. This explains the very poor performance. I'm not sure why they got this way.

I went with smooth Raybestos rotors of the same caliber (coated) this time because I needed them in a hurry. The wavy slots didn't seem to do much for my situation anyway. I wasn't expecting to have to replace the rotors which is more time consuming than standard slip over rotors and one of the ABS sensors had to be replaced as it was stuck in, so they said ... ? So this added a fair amount to the job.

Doing all of the brake lines was also a while you're command decision and that took time. The rear, cross axle, spring wrapped ones were the only horrible ones. But I had to order the entire set to get those. The reports are they went in just fine. A+ for Inline on that.

I'll post some before and after photos including the specs for the hoses I could find any other way. I went with rectangular banjos up front from Earl's but they sent me extended nipple round ones in the part number correct boxes. So I had to wait another week to fix that, very weird.

More later.
 

staatsof

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Here are some photos of the front hoses in place.
0114190800[1].jpg0114190801a[1].jpg0114190802[1].jpg



I used a 2.5" long piece of .25" ID fuel hose sliced down one side and slipped over the brake hose as an insulator with this as center clamp bolted with a single SS bolt.

https://www.mcmaster.com/8863T35

1547473938487.png

https://www.mcmaster.com/97646A253
1547474451784.png


I wanted a very sturdy clamp that was wide enough. I wish it were stainless but I have enough clamps to do another 24 replacements or trucks ... :jawdrop:

At each end I secured the split hose with a small wire tie.

These are the bolts I used which also work for securing the wheel cylinders to the backing plates.
Photos of that a bit later it's like 11 F here this morning. Brhhhhhh.

Parts from Inline:

inline tubing order.jpg

I used two of these Earls 9977031ERL Banjo Adapter

More later.
 
Last edited:

staatsof

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Here's what some of what got replaced looked like. The cooling fins on those drums were like layers of baked filo pastry.
It's so brutal with the salt here and then the roads beat the crap out of suspension parts.

Those rotors are really polished. The grooves in the one happend on the previous set of pads.
I think the imbalance was just so bad that no pads or rotors could have done well. The last pads were of an unknown type or quality but the previous ones were very good stuff.

I went with Performance Friction 045920 this time. For $25 including shipping this deal was hard to beat and these pads get very good reviews.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Friction-045920-FRONT-Brake-Pads-1988-2002-Chevy-GMC-2500-3500/183552616707?fits=Model:C3500|Make:Chevrolet&epid=110236141&hash=item2abc96a903:g:jAgAAOSw0~pb-aV1

So far I'm quite impressed with the bite and stopping power.
The Suburban feels like a proper functioning vehicle again and not an exercise machine for my right leg.
 

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jln2688

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Now on to the front brakes. 6 lug trucks used a 2.94" diameter piston in the front calipers, 8 lug single rear wheeled trucks used a 3.15" diamter piston, and dual rear wheeled trucks used a 3.285" diamter piston. For those with 6 lug wheels, you DO have an easy to swap in factory brake upgrade in the 8 lug single rear wheeled pads and calipers. GM offerred these from the factory on TAHOES sold for police and fire department use, and will work with your stock rotors. Also of note is that the 8600 GVWR 8 lug calipers actually provide more clamping force than the SSBC dual piston calipers at a fraction of the cost. And since it was a factory option, it all just bolts on, and is available at most any auto parts store for cheap.

I am not that up to speed on what years this is good for, and I'm not a mechanic. What year Tahoe am I looking at getting these calipers and pads for my 6 lug? I have an 89 K1500 6 lug. Is this the right 6 lug to do this conversion you are talking about? I do not know the measurements of these calipers that are on there now. Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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THEFERMANATOR

FRANKENBURBAN
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Now on to the front brakes. 6 lug trucks used a 2.94" diameter piston in the front calipers, 8 lug single rear wheeled trucks used a 3.15" diamter piston, and dual rear wheeled trucks used a 3.285" diamter piston. For those with 6 lug wheels, you DO have an easy to swap in factory brake upgrade in the 8 lug single rear wheeled pads and calipers. GM offerred these from the factory on TAHOES sold for police and fire department use, and will work with your stock rotors. Also of note is that the 8600 GVWR 8 lug calipers actually provide more clamping force than the SSBC dual piston calipers at a fraction of the cost. And since it was a factory option, it all just bolts on, and is available at most any auto parts store for cheap.

I am not that up to speed on what years this is good for, and I'm not a mechanic. What year Tahoe am I looking at getting these calipers and pads for my 6 lug? I have an 89 K1500 6 lug. Is this the right 6 lug to do this conversion you are talking about? I do not know the measurements of these calipers that are on there now. Thanks for your help in advance.
You can use the calipers from any of the 2500 8 lug trucks. As to pads, you can use the 8 lug truck pads, but you have to do some grinding on the outboard pad to clear the rotor. Otherwise you can use the stock pads to fit your truck, and bend the retainers on them some to go onto the larger calipers.
 

Guss327

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OK good info thanks to all. If I understand for may 1993 k1500 suburban 6 lug
For improved braking I need to source the 6 lug same year 2500 calipers rotors n pads. the caliper has a piston of 3.15 diameter n have improved clamping with a Quality rotor and pad. This will work with the sst flex lines and my all new sst hard lines. did I miss anything for my veh.? Or am I not understanding all the info clear for my 1993 6lug 4x4 1500 suburban.


55845
 

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FRANKENBURBAN
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OK good info thanks to all. If I understand for may 1993 k1500 suburban 6 lug
For improved braking I need to source the 6 lug same year 2500 calipers rotors n pads. the caliper has a piston of 3.15 diameter n have improved clamping with a Quality rotor and pad. This will work with the sst flex lines and my all new sst hard lines. did I miss anything for my veh.? Or am I not understanding all the info clear for my 1993 6lug 4x4 1500 suburban.


View attachment 55845
No, 6 lug is all the same size calipers. The bigger calipers came on 8 lug single rear wheel trucks.
 
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