Brake upgrades using factory parts for GMT-400(88-00 OBS), and 94-99 DODGE 2500/3500

[Big T]

Did you have to trim the bump stop at all in addition to trimming the lower shock tabs? I saw the YT video where a guy did that when doing the LCA swap.

For anybody interested, I pulled up an old web captured version of the FSC thread using the Internet Archive. You should be able to see it here and the pics still work: https://web.archive.org/web/2015110...h/502106-obs-nbs-k2500-hub-swap-possible.html

It sounds like all pathways require a lot of effort, but the 99-00 LCA route does seem the easiest, trading additional required reaming for less invasive trimming, with the added benefit of no tie rod reaming (that year 800 brake lines may also directly fit without an adapter it sounds like?).

There's a few machine shops locally, I bet one of them is familiar with the process and could be more time efficient to pay to have it done if the cost isn't prohibitive.

I'm glad I asked because it looks like there are a few other less-documented tricks, including the driver's side LCA bolt behind the differential. I also mentally spaced that the torsion bars will need to be loosened. Good thing I'm not in the rust belt.

No bump stop trimming here.

I have a set of ‘98-‘99 forged LCA’s, but the shipping cost is prohibitive. I’m keeping them as back-ups.

What is the trick for removing the Driver’s side LCA bolt? I’ve always had to undo and lower the front differential.

 

[DieselAmateur]

@drag sgt Here's a link to a thread specifically for the GMT800 conversion, worth reading all the way through. The page I'm linking to has a video which covers the swap where the fellow has the rare knuckles that don't need tie rod reaming and he uses the 800 series LCAs

GMT 800 Brake Conversion > Silverado HD 2500

Changing out the lower control arms from stamped/welded steel to forged is on my to do list. I anticipate have to cut off the stamped steel LCAs from the torsion because nothing would remove them the last time I was in there doing ball joints. The forged LCA go on and off easily. any update...

www.thetruckstop.us

To those who have done the swap, do you have to release the torsion bars or does jacking up the front end relieve enough of the tension? I have a line on a set of the unicorn knuckles and will be doing this swap to my 1 ton dump truck around the same time the engine goes in. It's a '93 with the stamped arms so I'm envisioning cutting wheel and/ or torch may be necessary

 

[Big T]

@drag sgt Here's a link to a thread specifically for the GMT800 conversion, worth reading all the way through. The page I'm linking to has a video which covers the swap where the fellow has the rare knuckles that don't need tie rod reaming and he uses the 800 series LCAs

GMT 800 Brake Conversion > Silverado HD 2500

Changing out the lower control arms from stamped/welded steel to forged is on my to do list. I anticipate have to cut off the stamped steel LCAs from the torsion because nothing would remove them the last time I was in there doing ball joints. The forged LCA go on and off easily. any update...

www.thetruckstop.us

To those who have done the swap, do you have to release the torsion bars or does jacking up the front end relieve enough of the tension? I have a line on a set of the unicorn knuckles and will be doing this swap to my 1 ton dump truck around the same time the engine goes in. It's a '93 with the stamped arms so I'm envisioning cutting wheel and/ or torch may be necessary

Jacking up the front end relieves the tension. I had a set of stamped steel LCAs on the ‘94 that I had to cut off the torsion bars because they were welded on from rust. That does not happen with the forged LCAs. The forged LCAs look so much better too.