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Blow by

Ok got them. I’m questioning the schrader though because the ones in the adapters have weaker springs and the one I used from the tire stem which didn’t blow the spring out has a heavier spring in it. I’ll do some googling on that but here’s what I got. Plus I retested the drivers side since I had gotten 400 on them

#1 375
#2 325
#3 350
#4 350
#5 350
#6 325
#7 360
#8 325
 
Ok. Gonna side track a minute about unbalanced waterpump for a moment- how did this pattern get here?

Anyone notice the low flow side of the engine is all lower compression and the high flow side is higher? I promise you, when this engine gets disassembled all four on the passenger side will have cracked up precups and steam pockets that are worse. Thank goodness that cylinder 8 had rings on the loose side of things when it was built, or it would have seized on one of the several times this engine was driven for miles at 220-225f. 100% this is rings that lost temper from heated cylinders shrunk inwards and transferring the heat. Dollar to a donut says #2 got scratched from debris or has a stuck ring.

I would totally do the atf wash down cylinders followed by seafoam, then decarbon with water on this engine. Then after that go ahead with the engine restore can. It might not all help a lot but if it doesn’t, you know when it is done there is no answer other than tear down.

As to helping the hard starts- speed of engine cranking is gonna help, so is fuel quality.
On the speed- powermaster starter, big cables- like 1/0. And run a ground cable to the starter. TOP POST optima or odyssey agm batteries. Get Leroy’s solenoid on the relay with a dash switch, otherwise one of the electronics folks here maybe walk you through what resistors to max out glow time. I wouldn’t do a tune just to add the time imo, and you have no business trying for more pwer with this engine until it is rebuilt or replaced. And since your cylinders are now egg shaped, this block needs sleeves, so replacement is cheaper unless you horse trade with the machinist later.

As to the fuel part of things- don’t use starting fluid until you are within a month of replacement-that will be the death of this engine. But when the compression gets worse and the faster crank speed and extra glow time isn’t enough anymore- you can cut in 5% gasoline to the fuel. It will have less power and less mpg, but will start a little easier. If you live where “winter blend” fuel is used, this is your trick to correct that- but understand you need to find non methonal/ethonal fuel for doing it and gelling could be an issue- so prepare for those possibilities in the future. This is a bit on the ‘chicken little’ side of things, but I prefer folks know ahead of time what to expect.

Remember colder mornings means harder starting so get this dialed in now, and plan on using your block heater come winter might be needed.

bench test those glow plugs snd remember the anti seize on the threads before installing.
 
I guess a question would be where could I find an engine and what kind of price are they going for these days

I did stumble upon one in a truck at my local wrench-a-part the other day
 
IF you decide to ditch this engine, it would be best to find an Optimizer or p400 (Navistar block) imo. And then still do a full teardown to make sure everything is right. I didn't, but I feel that I have been very lucky and I should have.
 
I bought a complete and running 94 C3500 dually box truck with the odd IP and 64,000 miles for 600$ last year. I bought a running 95 K3500 dually with a wrecked left front corner and something like 150,000 miles for 1200$ about 4 years ago. My point is if you look around and ask around you can still find these trucks for cheap here and there. Both of the trucks I bought were less than 30 minutes from my house.
 
Ok starting reassembly, bench tested all glows work fine. I’m not sure on the atf wash but reading online looks like all three are done with the engine running. I may just do the water thing and the bottle of restore in the oil till I begin searching for a engine or a donor truck. If I find another truck this one could become a parts donor lol.
 
If you guys wanna see the damaged block that I found shortly after I bought the truck. All because if the starter bracket! And the new bracket I installed is actually bent!

another reason to ditch this engine
 

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If You buy a used enjun and plan on doing a rebuild on it, If they wont let You remove the pan and do a partial teardown on it so You can check the mains for cracks, then dont buy that enjun. Keep shopping.
I’m sure there are other reasons to not pay for an enjun in advance, like number 8 cylinder, but I would not know how to check that unless a total tear down is performed.
There is a 6.5 for sale over here. I am not sure of how many miles is on it, they want $800.00 for that, comes complete with turbo and I think he said the wire harness, ECM, PMD and the works.
I have thought about buying it but, I too would not want to pay for it until I could do a complete inspection on it, including a comp test and tear down.
 
Thank guys. I just got things back together enough to start it up. Cranked her up and gaw dog! It sounded horrible sounded like I used ether or something. No smoke though. Let her run a minute and tried again. Cranked up just fine
 
And it way over due for a flush!! Look at what drained out of the coolant tank!!
 

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Well guys just ran to Wally World and grabbed some green antifreeze, engine restore, and some CLR. Gonna soak the coolant bottle in the clr while I flush out the truck and change the oil

let’s see how much krap I get flushed out
 
@Will L. Yes, saw that too and was thinking the same thing just now as I caught up on the thread, #'s 6&8 overheated and the rings are shot, as most likely #2 did, too. When my '94 C2500 HD C&C overheated and barfed both heads, there were cracks between the seats on the passenger head on #'s 2,6&8 from the same cause, as well as #7 on the driver head.

@dbrannon79 have you experienced any of the symptoms of cooling system over pressurization or unexplained coolant loss prior to this? Be on the lookout for those after you do your flush and coolant refill, from your pictures it looks like a lot of that "crud" you flushed/drained is leakstop and/or sludged up DexCool. Just my two cents worth.
 
I’m sure there was leak stop in there at one time. When I bought the truck the radiator was cracked around where the top hose went. It was patched with all kinds of cement. I pulled it and had the tank replaced and rad cleaned out. Since I have never had any overheating issues. Haven’t noticed any mysterious coolant disappearing but then again I’ve never paid any attention!
I will however pay close attention to the coolant levels going forward.
 
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