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Banks sidewinder exhaust manifold group buy.

You would find if you have the heavies that stuck to the wall of the centrifuge tested at a lab, most of it is silicone (fine dirt), with heterocyclic hydrocarbon (soot). Been down that road before. When used on gas engines instead of diesel, more dirt less soot.

Any of the heavy additives that could spin out are not bonded at a molecular level, and therefore would remix with the oil when the engine shuts off and the oil drains down out of the centrifuge.
Thanks Will. This is what I think is going on too. Just no experience from me to say for sure. Thanks
Worth every penny of the 5 bills it cost. Starting an engine at 40psi of oil pressure is good.
Can only be a good thing.
 
You would find if you have the heavies that stuck to the wall of the centrifuge tested at a lab, most of it is silicone (fine dirt), with heterocyclic hydrocarbon (soot). Been down that road before. When used on gas engines instead of diesel, more dirt less soot.

Any of the heavy additives that could spin out are not bonded at a molecular level, and therefore would remix with the oil when the engine shuts off and the oil drains down out of the centrifuge.
Will, how does all that silicone 'fine dirt' enter the oil through the intake and not so good air filter then forced into crankcase via compression stroke, or?
 
After a few more UOA test with soot readings, I will probably switch over to centrifuge. I don't know what I'll do with my FS2500. I also need to take my pre/post oil pump and put it back on the 6.5. That will remove most metal on UOA, the before and after UOA on the gasser its on now proved that. Worth every penny of the 5 bills it cost. Starting an engine at 40psi of oil pressure is good.
An oil accumulator is an item that should be on the top of the list on any rebuild or new engine but it is the most overlooked device too. What pre-lube pump you using on your 6.5?
 
Will, how does all that silicone 'fine dirt' enter the oil through the intake and not so good air filter then forced into crankcase via compression stroke, or?

Yes through air filter,past rings.

Also there is dirt in crude oil, a certian amount in your engine oil, grease, fuel,etc. it is a small amount, but readable.

Refineries do not centrifuge the oil. The crude basically gets cooked and sent through thermal crackers then up a distallation column. Depending on the type of ubble caps used in the column it might get refined a bit more through a splitter just to meet spec. The only way the different weights of oil are "filtered" is by pushing one weight through another with the lighter fuel in vapor form and the heavier liquid. So your diesel fuel absorbed the particulate junk from the kerosene up through the propane. Thats a big part of why shorter chain molecular hydrocarbon oils are cleaner burning. (The other is simply less carbon in the burning fuel puts out less carbon when burnt).

If you really want to make everything perfect, you could centrifuge all your oil and fuel before use and it would be better for it, its just the gains are not worth the effort. Unless you want to run used engine oil as your fuel, then its magic.
 
Will, How much filtering does does diesel get? I know there is a filter at the pump, but I figure that get changed very rarely. The reason I ask is because I changed out my whole fuel system and got rid of sock and have pre-filter. I am lucky to get 3 months max on the pre filter before I lose fuel pressure that is enough to cause fishbite. I guess the positive is the FFM filter is not seeing all this dirt. I don't have fuel bugs and follow WW biocide program since I got bugs clogging the sock.
 
FT, I have a 12V pump that was from ESP which was Eastern Superior Products I believe, or Pre-luber.com. That business is now gone. The same pump unit is sold by cpperformance.com. They are expensive but eliminate dry starting, which you already know. Have you any experience with the accumulator style oilers? The only drawback is you can't to my knowledge continue to pump oil through the turbo before shutdown for the turbo. I don't see these(pumps) on many vehicles, but always on aircraft and marine applications.
 
FT, I have a 12V pump that was from ESP which was Eastern Superior Products I believe, or Pre-luber.com. That business is now gone. The same pump unit is sold by cpperformance.com. They are expensive but eliminate dry starting, which you already know. Have you any experience with the accumulator style oilers? The only drawback is you can't to my knowledge continue to pump oil through the turbo before shutdown for the turbo. I don't see these(pumps) on many vehicles, but always on aircraft and marine applications.
Accusump makes a turbo accumulator, IMHO a wast of $$$ simply because it's good too allow the diesel to get under 300 deg. f. EGT coking happens higher EGT's when the diesel is shut down w/o an idle down.

Accumulators are great as they offer continuous operation w/o shut off valve in off position any loss of oil pressure automatically allows accumulator to force oil back into engine like when off road or at an angle where the oil maybe not covering the oil pump pickup. W/shutoff valve you close the valve just before shutting down diesel the accumulator will hold the oil until you open valve and prime system.
 
There are a number of tests on larger diesels both bypass filtration and centrifuge are tested @ around 100 hours the bypass filters start to show reduction in performance as filters become clogged the centrifuge stays at its max level of performance until such time as it needs servicing/cleaning.
 
Your truck fuel filter does more actual filtering than the filters at the pumps. When I worked for the largest fuel supplier for southern Nevada with around 300 stations in just Vegas, our pump filters were more like screens. There are just to meet requirements, only changed every 5 years, after thousands and thousands of gallons. If they were a 10 micron or 100 micron filter, think how often it would have to be changed.

Refineries don't use filters.
 
Your truck fuel filter does more actual filtering than the filters at the pumps. When I worked for the largest fuel supplier for southern Nevada with around 300 stations in just Vegas, our pump filters were more like screens. There are just to meet requirements, only changed every 5 years, after thousands and thousands of gallons. If they were a 10 micron or 100 micron filter, think how often it would have to be changed.

Refineries don't use filters.
Too bad they filter after the lift pump but I suspect they do good job filtering anyway. As lift pumps (Gm & carter) go I would go through one every 3 to 4 months now have this last pump (Airtex E3158) in about 6.5 years now w/o issue.
 
I plumbed Leroy's prefilter kit so the fuel goes through the filter before it gets to the LP. I figured the Walbro would live longer. Now I wish there was a water separator back there. Racor doesn't sell one that fits and space is tight back there. Another reason to go centrifuge. That FS2500 takes lots of space.
 
I will call you tomorrow Leroy. I wasn't complaining, I was cross referencing to see if there was a racor type with clear bottom. Clear isn't necessary either. I know the factory ffm is not good at removing water from this forum. My next question is, does a filter that does both jobs do both well? Or should I get a 2 filter setup?
 
Well I just remembered the water sep filter I have is like 6 micron so not good as a pre LP filter. I'd suggest running pre and post filters in your case.
 
So Leroy . . . Now that we finally got full-circle after a looooooonnnnngggg detour on an engine build . . .

What is the deal with that Sidewinder exhaust setup? Any plans for a kit? :D
 
Well! not really a kit. I can get the manifolds, turbo ect, but the detail work would be up to the customer. Such as crossover pipe, Turbo plumbing..ect.
 
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