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Banks sidewinder exhaust manifold group buy.

Not a good thing in case this one breaks or not a good thing because more people should be able to use them?
 
My parents had a 96 suburban that orginally had that single t-stat housing. Not sure what I did with it after I swapped the parts for the cooling "upgrades". Probably tossed it, guess I should of kept it. Course I do remember the truck cooling better with the full upgrades.
 
That is a neat crossover, need a few shots from different angles of that when it's all together plz. I like the different colors of dull grey then the bright one. Makes it look more detailed to me. Fancy Harland sharp sticker, but I think those valve covers could still use a window to really show case them.;)
 
Not a good thing in case this one breaks or not a good thing because more people should be able to use them?
Just because there hard to find it seems.

Maybe I should start a classified add for them. I always recommend the guys with 92-95 doing water pump, clutcy and Duramax fan keep their single tstat. For the 96-2000 this early 96 single tstat crossover is the only reasonable option to go with if wanting a single.
 
My parents had a 96 suburban that orginally had that single t-stat housing. Not sure what I did with it after I swapped the parts for the cooling "upgrades". Probably tossed it, guess I should of kept it. Course I do remember the truck cooling better with the full upgrades.
Definitely a need for them. I bet alot of them get trashed over the years.
 
That is a neat crossover, need a few shots from different angles of that when it's all together plz. I like the different colors of dull grey then the bright one. Makes it look more detailed to me. Fancy Harland sharp sticker, but I think those valve covers could still use a window to really show case them.;)
Will do. ( I don't mean you should do something, just that I'll get pics :smuggrin: ) I like the contrasting colors to. Yeah I agree a lead crystal valve cover would be nice.
 
Just because there hard to find it seems.

Maybe I should start a classified add for them. I always recommend the guys with 92-95 doing water pump, clutcy and Duramax fan keep their single tstat. For the 96-2000 this early 96 single tstat crossover is the only reasonable option to go with if wanting a single.

I have pretty new AC Delco t-stats in my dual crossover. Do I just need to restrict the bypass in mine and I'll be in ok shape? I don't understand what functional difference this single housing would have over the dual housing other than additional clearance around it.
 
Single has bypass blocker built into it.
Dual's will let hot water bypass the radiator right back to engine.
If you restrict yours you'll be good to go. I just like not having any hot water going back to engine.

Along these lines it seems the heater core will also allow a bypass condition? Do you guys think a ball valve would be a good idea especially for summer driving. Other valves could also be used like an old cable style, electric and maybe even a vacuum style could be used.
Seems to me the heater core is going to take water from radiator on the hot side and since the outlet is in the lower water pump inlet hose (on 94 & ^) all that hot water shoots right into the engine as well.
What you think?
 
I read that the heater cores help dissipate heat but can't remember the article, on the 1999 Burb it dumps hot coolant to the cold side of radiator too. I might just install a shutoff valve in to see if there is a difference, as my cooling system no longer steam's with waterless coolant. I saw good cooling gains with increasing airflow through radiator core and venting fenders.
 
I have pretty new AC Delco t-stats in my dual crossover. Do I just need to restrict the bypass in mine and I'll be in ok shape? I don't understand what functional difference this single housing would have over the dual housing other than additional clearance around it.

Dual flows more however many claim the newer single is better. The restrictor goes in the 1" bypass hose between the t-stat housing and pump a 3/8" hole drilled in the restrictor will suffice.
 
I don't know about cooling efficiency, but I sure like the idea of keeping the coolant out of the heater core in the summer so the air conditioning doesn't have to overcome that extra heat while trying to cool down the interior of the truck. I think I'll do some kind of a valve while I have everything apart.
 
I have a perfect ball valve in mind. I used them on my WVO systems too. I'll get a pic of it later. Basically just has the "barbs" built into the valve. I think its designed for Pex style tubing.
 
I read that the heater cores help dissipate heat but can't remember the article, on the 1999 Burb it dumps hot coolant to the cold side of radiator too. I might just install a shutoff valve in to see if there is a difference, as my cooling system no longer steam's with waterless coolant. I saw good cooling gains with increasing airflow through radiator core and venting fenders.
Unless the fan is on blowing across it I think the heat dissipation is minimal. Obviously you don't want this in summer months when it would actually be the most help. I have in my younger days had to drive across country with heater on full blast, in summer, in the desert heat just to keep ECTs down. That sucked.
I'm going to go with Evans also. I looked into becoming a distributor for them but the cost of shipping is the killer, that and demand for it in the 6.5 crowd.
 
Engine looks great. :D

Why won't the single stat work with a serpentine belt setup?

What balancer are you using?
 
Yeah you can still go serp belt just have to find the crossover that will work. You probably want the serp drive stuff from a 92-95 if your thinking of a truck donor??
 
I bought a 99 Savanah donor for all the parts. Blown motor but new IP, sold that to a customer so the van owes me nothing. :p:penguin::cat::wtf::hungover::android:

Sorry for the extra smilies, my daughter did that, :cool:
 
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