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A military rebuilt 6.5

n8in8or said:
Yeah Evans is definitely in the plan but I think I'll put it together with regular coolant first to make sure I don't have any problems. I'd hate to leak or burn such expensive coolant.
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Yep, make sure no leaks, IMHO the extra protection of waterless coolant is well worth the investment.
 
Glad the deal worked out! :)

Impressed that you got the valve covers off without bending them as I was told by a 'reputable' (not one of our supporting) vendors that removal frequently lead to replacement.

Regarding the coolant, understand the desire to not waste money in case there is a leak when the motor initially goes in. Just realize that using glycol and then converting to Evans will lead to extra work to purge the glycol.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Glad the deal worked out! :)

Impressed that you got the valve covers off without bending them as I was told by a 'reputable' (not one of our supporting) vendors that removal frequently lead to replacement.

Regarding the coolant, understand the desire to not waste money in case there is a leak when the motor initially goes in. Just realize that using glycol and then converting to Evans will lead to extra work to purge the glycol.
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Well I can't say they came out unscathed.... :rolleyes: I think I can straighten them out enough to make them work again. Actually all I need to use is the driver's side cover since the passenger side doesn't have the grommet for the CDR. Plus the driver's side is the one with the GEP sticker...which I intend to display proudly:D
 
JayTheCPA said:
Regarding the coolant, understand the desire to not waste money in case there is a leak when the motor initially goes in. Just realize that using glycol and then converting to Evans will lead to extra work to purge the glycol.
Click to expand...

And oh yeah, I know it will be a bit of a pain to flush it later, but if it all works out I think it will be worth it enough to do it the harder but more frugal way. I'll probably do a new radiator at that time too rather than spend that extra cash now.
 
I got the block stripped the rest of the way tonight. All of the cam bearings are showing hints of copper!!:eek: Tomorrow it's going to the machine shop for a good bath, new cam bearings and a fresh hone to cuddle Leroy's gapless rings:D:D I'm mildly stoked right now. I wonder if they used straight water to cool this thing? The water that came out was brown and the coolant passages sure were crusty. I also found a couple fine scratches in the journals so I'm going to see if they think those should be polished or not. I can't wait until this bullet is sitting in the correct end of the Tahoe!image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpg
 
I'm thinking it had water only for those coolant passages to be that crusty!:eek: But its nothing a good cleaning, and some new freeze plugs won't take care of. ;) I'm really quite green with envy. :D

Matt
 
n8in8or said:
And oh yeah, I know it will be a bit of a pain to flush it later, but if it all works out I think it will be worth it enough to do it the harder but more frugal way. I'll probably do a new radiator at that time too rather than spend that extra cash now.
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Just a note here, flush w/lots of water, I inquired about boiling off water contamination in the EVANS waterless coolant and yes it can be boiled off.
 
ak diesel driver said:
maybe it's just the pic but that crank looks like it needs attention
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AK, yeah, that's just a bad pic. I uploaded those from my phone and didn't really take a look at them. Here are a couple better pics. I have never seen crank journals this pretty before...it almost looks like they have a random orbit surface to them. However, there are a couple, like the #1 rod main that have some circumferential scratches that I want them to look at. You can just barely feel the scratch with your finger nail, so I'm interested to see what they think.main 5.jpg rod 1.jpg
 
FellowTraveler said:
Just a note here, flush w/lots of water, I inquired about boiling off water contamination in the EVANS waterless coolant and yes it can be boiled off.
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Thanks FT. Yeah, I'll use lots of water, and I also see that they offer a flush fluid of some kind, so I'm sure I'll be using some of that as well when the time comes.
 
SS FORCE said:
This is looking like way too much fun for one person to have. To bad your states away I am itching to get my hands dirty.
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Thanks SS, I am having fun. Yeah it sounds like there are a few of you in that part of the country that would be fun to hang with....I may have to drive the fat girl down that direction sometime :D
 
A little more fun tonight....I got one intake and one exhaust port ported tonight. Just with burrs. I'm gonna see how much some stones from Summit are tomorrow. image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpg
 
n8in8or said:
A little more fun tonight....I got one intake and one exhaust port ported tonight. Just with burrs. I'm gonna see how much some stones from Summit are tomorrow. View attachment 44079View attachment 44080 View attachment 44081View attachment 44082 View attachment 44083
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Nice work Nate. Personally, I like using the carbide cutters like your using there I think. Then I have a set of all different sizes, lengths, and grits of drum sanding rolls. They work amazing for smoothing, and polishing. I guess I never thought about spending much time porting on a 6.5, but maybe I should, especially if I want to try keeping your Tahoe!:D
That exaust valve seat you have pictured must have been in the open postion while that engine was sitting, as it looks a bit ruff, but I'm sure nothing a good valve lap wouldn't take care of. Loving the updates.:)

Matt
 
Hmmm ok I'll have to look for sanding rolls. Yeah just looking for aomething to maybe smooth it a little. I like the carbides for material removal and shaping but i would like these to be just a little smoother. Even as they are I'm happy with them...just wouldn't mind them to be a little smoother if I can. I've only ever used carbide burrs so it's exploratory from here...which is fun!:D
 
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