n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Oh and he also put a valve body with all the Sonnax updates in it plus the upgraded Sonnax valve in the pump. Should give me many trouble-free miles now.
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A military rebuilt 6.5
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I don't think you'll see or feel much difference unless at upper boost levels @ wot and VE climbs to say x 2.3
Rule of thumb: HP_____ x 2.3 for 4 stroke diesel w/turbo & aftercooled/or not = _________CFM requirement.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Great build, I'm on edge of my seat waiting to hear it and see it pound some pavement!
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I went with stock stall speed. A year ago I would have asked for their lower than stock RV stall speed but your higher stall speed converter thread made me rethink that. I didn't feel so bold as to go to a higher than stock stall speed though. Maybe if I wasn't going to be towing any..... I'm still waiting to hear how you like your converter in more situations.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I like the triple disk billet converter however I see no torque multiplication specs posted on their site did the unit come with the info or?
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
No it didn't come with that info. I didn't realize that was a variable in torque converter design, I thought it was an inherent feature. So you're saying that torque converter manufacturers can tweek the torque multiplication as well as stall speed?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Yes, they can within limits of transmission torque capacity this multiplication of torque is the reason for the HX40w 18 cm2 spooling almost instantly on the 6.5td!
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Hmmm, I've never explored converters in depth, just casually shopped and I've never seen a spec for torque multiplication before. I'll have to do some more looking. I trust my rebuilder so I think I'll stick with this converter but that's good info to know for future builds.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
No offense to anyone but that trans case looks like it just came out of the truck. It doesn't even have a coating of mexican silver, lol.
I could be wrong but stall and Torque multiplacation are one in the same, I've never heard of anyone talking about TM yet alone specs.
I could be wrong but stall and Torque multiplacation are one in the same, I've never heard of anyone talking about TM yet alone specs.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
"Torque multiplication is the built in stall ratio of the converter (can be from X 1.4 to 3.5 +-) so if the ratio is 2.0 then it's X 2 whatever your engine torque output is as it hits stall speed." This torque multiplication (ratio) is not constant over the rpm range either and peaks at the point of converter stall speed. As stall speeds increase so does torque multiplication ratio which can be trimmed +_ the web is chock full of information on this (charts too) and IMHO the converter builder should include the tq ratio with their converter specs.
Remember all the talk about turbo boost and load well the tq stall ratio is the total load per say with automatic transmissions @ stall speed.
There are billet quad clutch torque converters for the 4L80/85 now.
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FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
It's my sometimers again YES stall torque ratio (STR) & torque multiplication are the same real pros can tweak this ratio +-.
I should note that diesel produce torque down low in the rpm range and benefit from lower stall speeds than come stock from vehicle manufacturer 4L80e billet triple clutch can be had @ low 1.2k stall for diesel applications the lower the stall the cooler the transmission runs and is best for towing, hauling etc.
Hot rod your diesel then the sky is the limit w/stall speed and things in the drivetrain can break easier too.
I should note that diesel produce torque down low in the rpm range and benefit from lower stall speeds than come stock from vehicle manufacturer 4L80e billet triple clutch can be had @ low 1.2k stall for diesel applications the lower the stall the cooler the transmission runs and is best for towing, hauling etc.
Hot rod your diesel then the sky is the limit w/stall speed and things in the drivetrain can break easier too.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Low stall for diesel + more mpg's too!
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Did I just hear you start that beast, or?
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I wish!! I was going to post an update today during my lunch, but Leroy used a bunch of my time giving me good customer service
....so now I don't have time to post an update.I didn't get anything to speak of done this weekend, but I did get back to engine assembly last night so I will post an update with pics soon!
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
I was going to post an update today during my lunch, but Leroy used a bunch of my time giving me good customer service
Yeah, and I am sure that excuse worked for your homework too
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Yeah, and I am sure that excuse worked for your homework too
Maybe....
From now on when you guys bump me for an update I will absolutely be responding with, "Leroy ate my homework". 
I give all homework to the expert below.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
If you are following Leroy's build thread, then you'll know why I stopped actively building the engine and moved on to external build details.
When I cleaned my rocker arms so I could check pushrod length and valve-to-piston clearance I found that the shafts were seriously galled from the coolant in my oil! I contacted Harland Sharp directly and then sent my rockers to them for inspection. They agreed that the problem was contaminated oil and therefore it wasn't a warranty problem. Interestingly, the aluminum rocker arms themselves were ok, but the steel shafts were damaged. They told me that I could simply flip the shafts over and be ok or they could replace the shafts for $100. Since they had the rockers already I figured it was smart money to have the shafts replaced. Harland Sharp was very good to deal with, they're just a family business and very passionate about their products. It was a really pleasant experience dealing with them.
After my situation was handled to my satisfaction I contacted Leroy to let him know my experience since he is the vendor for the product. Since he had just installed his rockers the way they felt was fresh in his mind and when he looked at the side wear on my rocker bodies it got him to thinking further. His rockers were sealed under his valve covers so he couldn't easily inspect further, so he asked me to look at my rockers. He suspected that the middle rockers were tight to each other. I installed mine without pushrods and this really highlighted the problem....they were very tight! He has a home remedy that will take care of the problem, but I have a little time so I'm going to see what HS's solution to the problem is.
Here are some pics of my initial damage. I guess next time I have coolant in my oil (which hopefully is NEVER) I will not drive with that condition going on if there is anything in the engine that I hope to use again. The coolant also took out my turbo - I noticed some marks from the compressor wheel rubbing the housing so I felt the shaft and sure enough it was moving in there. I disassembled it hoping I could just put new bearings in it, but the shaft is scored. Rather than just do a cartridge I'm just getting a whole new turbo since it doesn't cost that much more. I am keeping the old turbo as I can use that to play with different wheels some day I figure. Of course the turbo that I bought in December has gone up about $100 on Ebay . I found it on the interwebs from I think the same vendor, but after I purchased it they told me it was out of stock....I suspect that they realized it was at the old sell price on their website, but who knows. So instead I am buying a JM Turbo off of Ebay.....it supposedly has the same specs so we'll see what it looks like when I receive it.
Here are some rocker carnage pics.
When I cleaned my rocker arms so I could check pushrod length and valve-to-piston clearance I found that the shafts were seriously galled from the coolant in my oil! I contacted Harland Sharp directly and then sent my rockers to them for inspection. They agreed that the problem was contaminated oil and therefore it wasn't a warranty problem. Interestingly, the aluminum rocker arms themselves were ok, but the steel shafts were damaged. They told me that I could simply flip the shafts over and be ok or they could replace the shafts for $100. Since they had the rockers already I figured it was smart money to have the shafts replaced. Harland Sharp was very good to deal with, they're just a family business and very passionate about their products. It was a really pleasant experience dealing with them.
After my situation was handled to my satisfaction I contacted Leroy to let him know my experience since he is the vendor for the product. Since he had just installed his rockers the way they felt was fresh in his mind and when he looked at the side wear on my rocker bodies it got him to thinking further. His rockers were sealed under his valve covers so he couldn't easily inspect further, so he asked me to look at my rockers. He suspected that the middle rockers were tight to each other. I installed mine without pushrods and this really highlighted the problem....they were very tight! He has a home remedy that will take care of the problem, but I have a little time so I'm going to see what HS's solution to the problem is.
Here are some pics of my initial damage. I guess next time I have coolant in my oil (which hopefully is NEVER) I will not drive with that condition going on if there is anything in the engine that I hope to use again. The coolant also took out my turbo - I noticed some marks from the compressor wheel rubbing the housing so I felt the shaft and sure enough it was moving in there. I disassembled it hoping I could just put new bearings in it, but the shaft is scored. Rather than just do a cartridge I'm just getting a whole new turbo since it doesn't cost that much more. I am keeping the old turbo as I can use that to play with different wheels some day I figure
. Of course the turbo that I bought in December has gone up about $100 on Ebay . I found it on the interwebs from I think the same vendor, but after I purchased it they told me it was out of stock....I suspect that they realized it was at the old sell price on their website, but who knows. So instead I am buying a JM Turbo off of Ebay.....it supposedly has the same specs so we'll see what it looks like when I receive it.Here are some rocker carnage pics.
Attachments
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
More pics. The last pic shows the top of the shaft, which is the side of the shaft that doesn't experience load and therefore doesn't wear.
