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A military rebuilt 6.5

The firewall matches the firewalls on Burbs in down under that came fitted with side-mount turbo because of steering box & column location on other side than ours.

I did the same insulation inside the front passenger compartment firewall, footwells and drivetrain hump made a big difference in heat rejection and sound reduction w/non-porous foam sleeping pads.

Helpful link: http://sectionhiker.com/sleeping-pad-r-values/
 
FellowTraveler said:
The firewall matches the firewalls on Burbs in down under that came fitted with side-mount turbo because of steering box & column location on other side than ours.

I did the same insulation inside the front passenger compartment firewall, footwells and drivetrain hump made a big difference in heat rejection and sound reduction w/non-porous foam sleeping pads.

Helpful link: http://sectionhiker.com/sleeping-pad-r-values/
Click to expand...

Oh, I see what you're saying...I thought you meant that I was ready to do a custom center mount turbo in that spot.

Nice info on the sleeping pads, thanks.
 
turbovanman said:
That sound paint looks interesting, wouldn't mind putting that on my tin so its quieter, damn van's, :rolleyes: :p
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Yeah I figured it was worth a try. I hear ya, our Class C with a 460 sure isn't quiet so I can't imagine what a van with a diesel right next to you sounds like!
 
Actually, the Holden suburban firewall is very much altered for both the rh drive and the center mount turbo:

HoldenSubBody.JPG


;)
 
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How about a front shot of that firewall? My focus was on the center of it and the indents I'm trying to find the post I saw in I think an Aussie web site showing that someone converted an American GMT400 lh drive pos to a center mount setup because that is what they had access to.
 
Sorry, have none. Just found that on the net with a quick google.

They are different though, the plenum area is reworked for the turbine section clearance, the in exhaust and the out. A center mount system also won't clear the NA style air-conditioning components. Not sure about a non ac vehicle though. No idea what all the reworking means for inside dash components, I didn't look. But seeing as the dash in a holden suburban is a mix of s truck and gmt400 components, anyone's guess could be right.

Saw one last time I was "down under"...
 
GW thanks, I'll be seeing if the center mount 6.5 td will fit my Burb soon thats what I'm using for my repower and planned to machine my current intake to fit the center mount heads. I'm still trying to find the conversion string I think is at the BIG 4wd Aussie site.
 
Unless you're going with a different turbocharger, there's not a lot to gain in going center mount. The OEM BW unit isnt the best starting place.

Pretty sure the van/Hummer intake manifold also has different bolt angles than the truck heads. Would at least have to redrill or build a shim to get proper bolt clamping without side loading the bolt head. Don't quote me on that though, the gray matter is getting a little dodgey these days.

;)
 
great white said:
Unless you're going with a different turbocharger, there's not a lot to gain in going center mount. The OEM BW unit isnt the best starting place.

Pretty sure the van/Hummer intake manifold also has different bolt angles than the truck heads. Would at least have to redrill or build a shim to get proper bolt clamping without side loading the bolt head. Don't quote me on that though, the gray matter is getting a little dodgey these days.

;)
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I'm pushing 66 and suffer from sometimers.
 
n8in8or said:
I got the Tunnel Shield finished on the firewall. I just need to tape all the seams with foil tape. It didn't go too badly overall. I think I have about 3 hours into installing the Tunnel Shield and of course I got faster as I went. One thing that made it faster was not worrying about making perfect butt joints and letting it overlap. I also ended up putting a second layer in the middle of the firewall to cover seams and also to hopefully get additional sound deadening there.
Click to expand...

Are you going to put the thick mat over top of the Tunnel Shield in the center area?

I did the same procedure with a different product. I had to do it because the thin material that was there was brittle and crumbling off. I installed the thick mat back over in the center area. I figured the thick mat had different sound deadening properties than the foil urethane sticky back stuff.

Good looking project.
 
Duvall said:
Are you going to put the thick mat over top of the Tunnel Shield in the center area?

I did the same procedure with a different product. I had to do it because the thin material that was there was brittle and crumbling off. I installed the thick mat back over in the center area. I figured the thick mat had different sound deadening properties than the foil urethane sticky back stuff.

Good looking project.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I think I'm going to stop with the 2 layers of thin stuff. I do like the idea of the thick stuff, but honestly I'm running out of funds so I need to watch what I spend it on and the sound deadening I did get was a bit of a splurge already.
 
Really forget the factory center mount, it's not worth the hassle. If you can fit the ATT or hx40 and custom do the intake, exhaust set up then ok. The gm6 sidemount is reworked into a wait for it...gm6 center mount. So yeah not quite as good of flow as the gm8. The block oil feed and oil drain is the other part of the equation missing there. If you feed oil from the rear port into the turbo, then route down into the oil pan it would be a much easier mod, and far better results than the gm6. Also mod the 2 rear intake runners and keep the front 6, you'll be able to keep everything else the same, and end up with more even flow than the van/hummer intake.

If I could have done it that way, I definitely would have. I just couldn't fit anything larger underneath my center a pillar. Still sometimes wish I had roof mounted a turbo.o_O;)
 
So my plan was to spray over the sound deadening paint on the tin when I painted the engine because I figured I could get it cured fully by running it through an oven at work. I called the manufacturer today to find out what oven specs would be safe and they said that wouldn't work. They said the paint forces moisture from the metal surface to the top of the paint and this takes about 30 days and heat won't speed this process up. So since I can't wait 30 days I guess I won't be top coating. So I decided I may as well put another coat of the Metal Shield on....but this time use a roller and see if I can get a better finish. Well I did it and boy does it look better!! A nice crinkle finish. I hope it stays looking like that. I think it will since this paint is so thick. Note how it holds its form in the can. I just used a foam roller and it turned out quite nicely. image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpg
 
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