2014 Honda CR-V using oil

[BIGR]

The outdated power train is why it lasts so long. No direct fuel injection. No 10 speed transmissions. No small turbo changed engine. You want state of the art and you lose reliability.

So despite the oft quoted/linked article, the Toyota 4Runner is still the top selling SUV in the U.S.

My wife's brother has an older 4Runner. It's probably got 200,000 miles plus on it, he loves that vehicle, it's been solid. He had to put an alternator on it about 2 years ago, but no major repairs that I know of.

 

[Big T]

My wife's brother has an older 4Runner. It's probably got 200,000 miles plus on it, he loves that vehicle, it's been solid. He had to put an alternator on it about 2 years ago, but no major repairs that I know of.

2014 4Runner with 319K miles on it. The alternator just went out this week. First major repair. New alternator arrives tonight or tomorrow.

P.S. I run 0w20 synthetic in it and change every 10K miles. It may go a tick below the top full line at 10K miles and the oil is slightly darker than new. That's why old, proven technology is good.

 

[jrsavoie]

Btw, Toyota tacomas get 15-16 mph if 6 cyl, 16-17 if 4 cylinder, 1-2 mpg less if 4wd.

The outdated power train is why it lasts so long. No direct fuel injection. No 10 speed transmissions. No small turbo changed engine. You want state of the art and you lose reliability.

So despite the oft quoted/linked article, the Toyota 4Runner is still the top selling SUV in the U.S.

Got done messing with the old backhoe and started on the Honda.
Start to take off the splash guard - hope I have some push pins the right size.

When I got the splash guard pulled down some I could see some oil On the left hand side of the engine.
We'll get a closer look tomorrow.
Not sure where to take it for repairs. If it has a leak.

I really need to invest in concrete and a lift or at least a little concrete and a lift.
Maybe next year

 

[Rockabillyrat]

Stay away from 4runners since you live in the Midwest. They rust frames just as bad as the Tacoma. But for some reason Toyota didn't warranty them. My buddy just put a frame under his because the body was still perfect.

 

[Big T]

Got done messing with the old backhoe and started on the Honda.
Start to take off the splash guard - hope I have some push pins the right size.

When I got the splash guard pulled down some I could see some oil On the left hand side of the engine.
We'll get a closer look tomorrow.
Not sure where to take it for repairs. If it has a leak.

I really need to invest in concrete and a lift or at least a little concrete and a lift.
Maybe next year

You’ve got a leak on the VTEC Spooler Valve. You can try to reseal it, or just replace the whole valve with new which will come with a new seal.

I have this leak on my 2005 Accord. Replacing the seal did not work. I the torqued it tighter and one bolt head is starting to strip. Leak was much reduced, so I left it for a later date.

Prices on the Spooler Valve range from $25 for CKO to over $200 for OEM.

 

[Big T]

Stay away from 4runners since you live in the Midwest. They rust frames just as bad as the Tacoma. But for some reason Toyota didn't warranty them. My buddy just put a frame under his because the body was still perfect.

Most guys in rust belt states apply fluid film or similar to the under body and frame. We are at 8 years and have no rust issues.

 

[jrsavoie]

Most guys in rust belt states apply fluid film or similar to the under body and frame. We are at 8 years and have no rust issues.

I've had better luck with other oils - anything I had handy, than Fluid Film.
I used Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, that's nasty stuff. Definitely want a respirator for that.

Marvel and any other lube I happened to have handy.

Oiling makes a huge difference.

 

[jrsavoie]

You’ve got a leak on the VTEC Spooler Valve. You can try to reseal it, or just replace the whole valve with new which will come with a new seal.

I have this leak on my 2005 Accord. Replacing the seal did not work. I the torqued it tighter and one bolt head is starting to strip. Leak was much reduced, so I left it for a later date.

Prices on the Spooler Valve range from $25 for CKO to over $200 for OEM.

I have done nothing to this vehicle since we bought it.

Where do I find schematics and torque specs?

where's the best place to buy Honda parts?

for this part, is there an aftermarket part as good or better than the Honda?

Saving money on parts has never worked out well for me.

my goal is to always buy the best quality part available.

Thanks a bunch.

spool valve 2014 honda CR-V - Google Search

 

[Big T]

I have done nothing to this vehicle since we bought it.

Where do I find schematics and torque specs?

where's the best place to buy Honda parts?

for this part, is there an aftermarket part as good or better than the Honda?

Saving money on parts has never worked out well for me.

my goal is to always buy the best quality part available.

Thanks a bunch.

spool valve 2014 honda CR-V - Google Search

I bought a Gates version of the Spooler valve for like $89. Figured that Gates was a good brand.

Torques specs are 16 ft lbs for the bolts.

Looks like this is the one you need:

15811-R40-A01 - Genuine Honda Valve Sub-Assembly, Spool

HondaPartsNow.com offers the great deal for genuine Honda parts, 15811R40A01. Valve Sub-Assembly, Spool for $139.42. All parts are backed by the Honda's warranty.

www.hondapartsnow.com

If want to be overly cautious, they recommend you use Hondabond sealant around the outside of the seal:

https://www.amazon.com/Hondabond-High-Temp-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket/dp/B006YTTV4W

 

[jrsavoie]

I bought a Gates version of the Spooler valve for like $89. Figured that Gates was a good brand.

Torques specs are 16 ft lbs for the bolts.

Looks like this is the one you need:

15811-R40-A01 - Genuine Honda Valve Sub-Assembly, Spool

HondaPartsNow.com offers the great deal for genuine Honda parts, 15811R40A01. Valve Sub-Assembly, Spool for $139.42. All parts are backed by the Honda's warranty.

www.hondapartsnow.com

If want to be overly cautious, they recommend you use Hondabond sealant around the outside of the seal:

https://www.amazon.com/Hondabond-High-Temp-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket/dp/B006YTTV4W

Thank you very much.

I really appreciate the help.

Looks like first step is removing the splash guard and verifying.

That was my plan for this morning, but it didn't work out.

Tomorrow is another day.

Do you know if there's anything in particular to ok know about doing brakes on these?

Any parts better than others?

We got 50,000 miles on whatever brakes were on when we bought. If they're Honda originals I would be inclined to go that route again.

I saw something on the Honda.com page that had a list of maintenance done by vin number. But I bumped it, lost it and haven't found the page again yet.

Other wise I would be inclined to with the Powerstop brake kits I've used on a couple other vehicles

 

[Big T]

Thank you very much.

I really appreciate the help.

Looks like first step is removing the splash guard and verifying.

That was my plan for this morning, but it didn't work out.

Tomorrow is another day.

Do you know if there's anything in particular to ok know about doing brakes on these?

Any parts better than others?

We got 50,000 miles on whatever brakes were on when we bought. If they're Honda originals I would be inclined to go that route again.

I saw something on the Honda.com page that had a list of maintenance done by vin number. But I bumped it, lost it and haven't found the page again yet.

Other wise I would be inclined to with the Powerstop brake kits I've used on a couple other vehicles

I use the top of the line Raybestos pads and power stop slotted, drilled rotors. Raybestos and AC Delco also have some very good, though a bit pricey, slotted rotors.

 

[jrsavoie]

I use the top of the line Raybestos pads and power stop slotted, drilled rotors. Raybestos and AC Delco also have some very good, though a bit pricey, slotted rotors.

Any thoughts on the power stop pads?

I've used them at least twice. But not on anything I saw again.
As far as I know they're still going strong.
Have to message the grandkids and ask how their brakes are.

Personal opinion here. I'm thinking about skipping on the calipers - they're still working fine.
Should I bite the bullet and get everything or reuse the calipers?

 

[Will L.]

Unless you have a problem, or are trying to make a major upgrade- keep the calipers.
Drilled/ slotted/ chryo treated rotors disperse heat better IF THEY ARE HIGH QUALITY ONES. But if you never experienced brake fade - meh.

I drive rough. 80 is just in the way of cruise speed. Brake harder than you accelerate means things like this help. If you drive calm and peaceful- don’t bother.

Careful using drilled/slotted off road. Mud/ fine sand build up in the holes and slots- ruining the pads way early. Ask me how I know...

 

[Big T]

Unless you have a problem, or are trying to make a major upgrade- keep the calipers.
Drilled/ slotted/ chryo treated rotors disperse heat better IF THEY ARE HIGH QUALITY ONES. But if you never experienced brake fade - meh.

I drive rough. 80 is just in the way of cruise speed. Brake harder than you accelerate means things like this help. If you drive calm and peaceful- don’t bother.

Careful using drilled/slotted off road. Mud/ fine sand build up in the holes and slots- ruining the pads way early. Ask me how I know...

My wife is prone to “warping” rotors. In her defense, she does a lot of mountain driving. The slotted rotors have allowed her to mostly avoid this problem.

The OEM rotors on my Honda warped fairly quickly. Put on the PowerStop drilled and slotted and warping has not been an issue with over 100K on them.

 

[jrsavoie]

I'm a coaster. I consider using the brakes a waste of fuel/money.

You can coast on the flatlands.

I miss the NV4500 for that. I'd coast 1/2 mile for turns and stops.

We sometimes have discussions about brake use and who is going to change them .

 

[Rockabillyrat]

Most guys in rust belt states apply fluid film or similar to the under body and frame. We are at 8 years and have no rust issues.

It doesn't matter they still rust. We do fluid film all the time at work. Your in CA, you have zero idea what happens to vehicles in the Midwest. I've been turning wrenches for 20 years in Ohio.

 

[Big T]

It doesn't matter they still rust. We do fluid film all the time at work. Your in CA, you have zero idea what happens to vehicles in the Midwest. I've been turning wrenches for 20 years in Ohio.

I've worked in Chicago and saw what it does to vehicles. Also saw what it does to bridges. I know why they call it the rust belt.

 

[Big T]

It doesn't matter they still rust. We do fluid film all the time at work. Your in CA, you have zero idea what happens to vehicles in the Midwest. I've been turning wrenches for 20 years in Ohio.

I wouldn’t buy a used car from the rust belt and I would not keep a new one more than 5 years. That’s another reason to buy the 4Runner because a 5-year old car rarely sells for less than 75% MSRP.

 

[jrsavoie]

I wouldn’t buy a used car from the rust belt and I would not keep a new one more than 5 years. That’s another reason to buy the 4Runner because a 5-year old car rarely sells for less than 75% MSRP.

We've bought at least 5 vehicles from out of state

 

[Rockabillyrat]

I've worked in Chicago and saw what it does to vehicles. Also saw what it does to bridges. I know why they call it the rust belt.

I get that, but you don't have first hand experience of what vehicles last in the Midwest like I do. Im not trying to be a dick, but im more of an expert on this subject then you are.

4runners up here will have zero rust on the body and the frame will literally be rusting in half. See it all time. There is a good amount of cars and trucks that do the same thing up here. The list of vehicles i would own is extremely small. Fluid film can help but most shops don't do a good enough job getting it INSIDE the frame. Plus you have reapply it once a year. It will wash off on areas that get hit hard from water/snow on the underside. I touch up my wife's honda every fall. I pulled all the fender liners and splash shields off. Think I put close to 3 gallons on that car initially.

Personally i would never buy a new car when you can get a certified used car for alot cheaper and still have a factory warranty. Our Honda was 3 years old with 30k on it when we got it. Since its certified used it carried the factory warranty. I always stress to people the importance of buying a certified used car if your not buying a new one.

Not keeping a car for more than 5 years!? Personally I keep them till I can fix them anymore. I expect to get over 15 years out of our Honda. My tahoe is over 20 and has been a daily driver in Ohio its whole life.

There is nothing wrong with buying a used car up here if you stay within a few years of the current model year. Which most certified used cars are. If you want some older then obviously I would look out of state. Or find a place selling "southern " vehicles. Just have to be careful as many have been wrecked, fixed and resold up here.