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1996 Silverado 6.5 Duramax swap

Just bought a complete (supossed running) 6.5 for $50 Actually I turned my brother onto it. If he did'int grab it I was going to.
You may get something for the heads?
 
Burning oil said:
Just bought a complete (supossed running) 6.5 for $50 Actually I turned my brother onto it. If he did'int grab it I was going to.
You may get something for the heads?
Click to expand...


o wow i wish i coulda found that deal before i bout the donor. but ya im not trying to get rich off the engine just dont wana throw it away some1 has gotta need something somewheere haha
 
Nick 6.5 said:
o wow i wish i coulda found that deal before i bout the donor. but ya im not trying to get rich off the engine just dont wana throw it away some1 has gotta need something somewheere haha
Click to expand...

I bought a know bad 99 6.5l a few years ago for 250, traded the serp drive for my 82 that DROVE onto the trailer. Then pulled the pan on the engine to find a snapped crank and maybe 1/4" Crack at a main Web w/ over 200k on the engine. Some helicoil, main studs, scat crank, and she's good to go.

I can buy 6.2s and some 6.5s on Craigslist for 500 and down, most can be heard running.

Source Unknown
 
got a blown up one at an auction with the IP still on, out of at aleast a 97, complete with engine wiring harness for 100 bucks. IDK how the block is, but the pan is trashed.
 
Forgot, I got the big k47 (3500hd), vin f, and core ip w/ mine. Also a working pmd, ffm, flywheel and clutch, good starter.

Deals are out there.

Source Unknown
 
I havnt really had the time to work on the trucks this week work has been crazy busy. i hope to the engines them pulled and the bay of the 96 cleaned up and ready for installation by friday or saturday. a while back I found some engine mounting plates for duramax swaps in chevelles and older style pickups ( 3 bolt style mount) on ebay. I bought them just out of curiosity to see if they will work. If not ill just weld my custom mount onto them. the shape of the plate is the same as the plate in the swap guide. pretty hefty. 1/4 inch solid unfinished steel plate pre shaped and drilled to bolt to the dmax block. I guess ill see what happens I1380824010.jpg
 
I used 3/16" on mine, and even that was pushing it for thickness with the stock 4 bolt mounts. I ended up grinding reliefs in each of them for the 2 humps on the mount to fit down into. I tried to sit my engine as low as possible, and it still rubs the hood some. It will be a TIGHT fit with it in there. I have MAYBE a 3/8" clearance on the oil pan to the steering linkage, and my A/C lines and air intake rub the hood on top. If you could slide the engine back you could get more room, but then you run into a whole host of other problems(transfer case will hit the torsion bar cross member, the steering shaft will hit the drivers side manifold, and a stock truck oil pan will hit the steering center link).
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
I used 3/16" on mine, and even that was pushing it for thickness with the stock 4 bolt mounts. I ended up grinding reliefs in each of them for the 2 humps on the mount to fit down into. I tried to sit my engine as low as possible, and it still rubs the hood some. It will be a TIGHT fit with it in there. I have MAYBE a 3/8" clearance on the oil pan to the steering linkage, and my A/C lines and air intake rub the hood on top. If you could slide the engine back you could get more room, but then you run into a whole host of other problems(transfer case will hit the torsion bar cross member, the steering shaft will hit the drivers side manifold, and a stock truck oil pan will hit the steering center link).
Click to expand...

i bought these plates pretty much just for shits n giggles to see what happens. i figured it would be a lil bit easier considering they are pre shaped and drilled. i do have access to a welder but not where the trucks are at so im trying to make it as easy as possible(obviously. think every1 does). question for u. where does your hood rub? the center at all by the intake air horn and ac compressor? or by the actual intake filter? im ganna be buying a cowl induction and am curious if u think that would fix the rub problem
 
A 1" lift would fix the rubbing, but BIGLEY put a cowl induction hood on the red truck and doesn't have any rub. Mine rubs on the plastic intake tube that runs from the air filter to the turbo horn. I could make a oval shaped one to fix it, but it doesn't rub enough to hurt it. And I have dual A/C, so I have more A/C lines running over the alternator and they rub some.
 
625fireman said:
Thats what that outfit out west (colorado IIRC) does when the drop a dmax in.

IIRC Ferm said that he saw where that would help but didnt want the lift.
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i was actually thinking about buying the lift and putting the blocks on a chop saw and cutting them down. if i need an inch clearance for the hood ill use an inch. but im hoping id only have to use 1/2 at the most. i hate body lifts with a passion! so minimal is best. ill find out once its in i guess. good to know the cowl will make it work.
 
I agree, I don't like a body lift on any of my trucks. That was the main factor in sticking with the 6.5 instead of Duramax or cummins in my Hummer..
 
Sorry for the delay guys. i had some family issues back home in washington state i had to deal with. ill be back at it this week. so far i only got the 6.5 trand and tcase out. hopfully i wont have any more disruptions
 
Its been awhile since my last update. i had alot of stuff going on. i havnt been able to do anything with the trucks untill now. everything got put on the back burner and started collecting dust... so anyway im back. i got the 02 all torn down and all the parts off it that i needed and sold the rest off for 1500. Im ganna pressure wash the engine bay of the 96 this week and get that all cleaned up and read for the moch up of the drive train. i have a couple pics that ill post as soon as i can.
whats your opnnion on air dog 100? Also has anyone bought the diamond eye downpips for the LB7? i already have the diamond eye 4" .
 
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