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1995 K2500 - $1k Facebook Find

Thanks, everyone. I went ahead and purchased the harness and the gasket kit. That'll also allow me to change out the return line on the injector and clean that area up a bit.

I'll also purchase a new coolant hose to run from the reservoir to the radiator.

And the comment on the amp gauge was good - I should've thought of that. I do have a voltmeter already - it's one of the cheaper ones from Lowe's. I can't reason myself into purchasing one over a hundred bucks...
 
Might be a dumb question, but if the lift pump were dead, would I still have fuel come out of the top of the fuel filter while I crank on the starter?

Is there a T handle that I'm not seeing on my 95, that I could turn to bleed the fuel filter, because I can't seem to find it and I don't know if it's because I'm blind, or...?

The lift pump looks OLD!! Will - you recommended I install a clear hose for the return - do you just connect it to the IP and into the black line? Or is there a clear/opaque tubing that could be run further back? (when I remove the intake manifold)
 
Another "cheap" part that I thought I'd try is the OPS?

Also - the SES light IS on when cranking. I have not had a chance to check the codes yet, but a good friend of mine has shared how to check the codes and what the codes mean. I will do that, probably, next. And reset the codes.
 
Unless it's been modified it won't run the LP even when cranking. System is designed so the LP won't run until oil pressure comes up.
The clear line is just cheap hardware store clear plastic tubing 1/4" IIRC you only need about 6", it goes from the IP to the metal return line just in front of it closer to the radiator.
T handle may be missing as they tend to leak with age follow the hose coming off the FFM forward to see if you can find it.
 
I followed the fuel line from the IP and it went down into the valley. I'll do a search and make sure that I'm following the correct line, because it looks longer than 6".

I'll also follow the hose off the FFM forward to see if I can find the T handle. Thank you.

So - with the LP - I just need to find the harness and connect 12 volts to get fuel up to the IP? Would the fuel that is coming out of the filter housing be from the IP than, as I'm cranking and have the filter housing cracked open?
 
There's 2 lines coming off the FFM the smaller one goes to the t valve the larger one to the IP. The IP has 2 lines as well the larger one from the FFM and a smaller one going to that steel return line in the front.
You can run a jumper wire directly to the LP to see if it works and to get fuel up to the IP. Probably take 2 wires power and ground
 
treegump said:
I followed the fuel line from the IP and it went down into the valley. I'll do a search and make sure that I'm following the correct line, because it looks longer than 6".

I'll also follow the hose off the FFM forward to see if I can find the T handle. Thank you.

So - with the LP - I just need to find the harness and connect 12 volts to get fuel up to the IP? Would the fuel that is coming out of the filter housing be from the IP than, as I'm cranking and have the filter housing cracked open?
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Do you hear the lift pump run or have fuel at the FFM with key on?

With a used vehicle it is possible that somebody has changed the wiring to power the lift pump with key in the run position. It's easy to check. Turn the key to run and crack the T valve or crack the Bleeder on the FFM. If you hav6e fuel the lift pump is running.

If the lift pump is not running with key on, I would make a long jumper with a plug to fit the lift pump on the end and 2 alligators and an inline fuse on the other end. You can also use 2 pin connectors instead of a lift pump plug, to connect your harness to the lift pump

Jumper the lift pump and check for fuel at the drain T, if it has not been removed - it should be near the thermostat. You should also be able to hear the lift pump run when you hook it up. Sometimes if I make a jumper like that, I also install an on/off switck at the inline fuse.

I would not invest in an OPS before investing in the lift pump relay upgrade. Often a bad OPS will still put out enough juice to trigger the relay, even if it will not run mmm the lift pump on it's own.
 
DieselSlug said:
I would just find the thread size and get a plug for the inspection port. Assuming that barb you see is some type of vent. Whomever painted this thing has no taste, blue up top red down low.

Also those starter bolts don't look stock. These pictures are bringing back memories of my old plow rig from underneath.
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I have some washer head GM Starter bolts with the knurl on them not sure which vehicle they came off of
 
At the start of this, did you say it started and ran funky? If so, I would be installing new glow plugs and verifying power to the glow plugs. Use high temp antisieze on the threads only when installing the glow plugs. I also coat the spade connectors with kopper kote or dielectric grease
 
Sounds to me like yoh are confusing supply line and return line for ip.

Best answer imo- you take a picture of your truck where the lines are visible and post it here. I will label the parts in the picture.

the return line that gets replaced with clear is 1/4” and 5” or so long.
The supply from the ffm to the ip is 5/16 and needs to be sae30r9 unless you do FTB mod which moves it up to 3/8”. I cant remember what size the wif drain line is that comes off the ffm and goes to the little valve.

The following video is of a 6.2 with a db2. It shows the worst condition air intrusion that still allowed the truck to run. The engine rpm was around 1200, but throttle was about 85-90%!!! Really only showing it here so you can see how short the clear line is.
 
Wow! Thank you everyone for the flood of information and clarification!

I somehow missed the comment about my starter bolts not looking stock. Good to know. Though I'll also say that I noticed the bracket not being secure AFTER bump starting it on and off the trailer. :banghead::depressed:

I must've been looking at the feed lines. I'll check the front of the pump for the return line. Feeling a bit dumb about not making that connection of the feed line, haha.

Fuel is found covering the FFM after cranking the motor, if I crack the top open. But I can't turn the key to ON and watch it come out. But I also hear what I remember the pump sounding like for a couple quick seconds, when key is turned to RUN. I have jumpers somewhere, or I'll make new ones, and try that.

I think I might check and try all the above, including checking and resetting the codes, before replacing the glow plugs, because than I'll have to replace the harness because that looks worse than the plugs themselves, haha. But that is on the list of things to upgrade as soon as I'm able, especially if I don't find a warm spell to work on it and the heater turns out to be a dud.

Thanks again everyone!
 
I wish I could've worked on it Sunday afternoon, with how warm it was! But, I couldn't, and that's alright. I don't have a reason to drive a truck but, maybe, twice a month, and since I still have the F250, I'm not in a huge rush to get work on it while it's cold.

It saddens me a bit on how little I drive a truck anymore...
 
treegump said:
I wish I could've worked on it Sunday afternoon, with how warm it was! But, I couldn't, and that's alright. I don't have a reason to drive a truck but, maybe, twice a month, and since I still have the F250, I'm not in a huge rush to get work on it while it's cold.

It saddens me a bit on how little I drive a truck anymore...
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Same here. I hardly drive anything anymore
 
I might drive, maybe, three or four times a week or less. The farthest I drive is Sunday mornings, about 30 miles one way.
I just dont have a lot of reason to go anyplace. Now that's a lot of change compared to 50 years ago. LOL
Okay, end of the hijack. LOL
 
I have not reduced or added to correct the list for a while. With grandkids we have 6 drivers.

Sounds like Marty and I run about the same these days. Not much compared to 1989 when I put on 45,000 in 9 months. My wife drives almost daily and most of the time when we leave the house. - maybe 2 times a week for me
 
jrsavoie said:
I have not reduced or added to correct the list for a while. With grandkids we have 6 drivers.

Sounds like Marty and I run about the same these days. Not much compared to 1989 when I put on 45,000 in 9 months. My wife drives almost daily and most of the time when we leave the house. - maybe 2 times a week for me
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Yeah, aaaand, when going to church, the wifey loves driving the truck, on the highway, not so much in town, so, when she decides to travel along to church, She bugs the crap outta Me until I hand her the keys. LOL
 
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