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1995 K2500 - $1k Facebook Find

Will L. said:
Give it a shot- they last decades before failing.
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And issues are often plug related. A lot of times all you need is a new cord.

I would pull the plugs and look at them. After ether was used on my sons truck the ends of the glow plugs were gone. I think I would do that and a compression test, before going much further.

If you have a temp gun, they are fairly cheap anymore, you can shoot the block heater and know within a few minutes, if it is working.

I have the 95 Tahoe and the 96 Suburban for sale for 1100 each. I have been a little overwhelmed here and am trying to catch up on projects.

I have them priced based on what they are worth in parts to me. Are you on the 6.5 pages on Facebook? I have them advertised there.
 
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jrsavoie said:
And issues are often plug related. A lot of times all you need is a new cord.

I would pull the plugs and look at them. After ether was used on my sons truck the ends of the glow plugs were gone. I think I would do that and a compression test, before going much further.

If you have a temp gun, they are fairly cheap anymore, you can shoot the block heater and know within a few minutes, if it is working.

I have them priced based on what they are worth in parts to me. Are you on the 6.5 pages on Facebook? I have them advertised there.
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I can't remember if I ever purchased a temp gun or not, but I probably need one anyhow. I'll look into that.

And I'm not sure if I am or not. I'll take a look at them, but I doubt the wife would be ok with me purchasing yet another truck without getting rid of a truck, haha.
 
treegump said:
I can't remember if I ever purchased a temp gun or not, but I probably need one anyhow. I'll look into that.

And I'm not sure if I am or not. I'll take a look at them, but I doubt the wife would be ok with me purchasing yet another truck without getting rid of a truck, haha.
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The Suburban is locked up. It got ran out of oil when the bypass filter came lose. Apparently I did notbget it tight. If anybody had ever checked the oil they would have noticed the mess under the hood. It is a good parts vehicle. It has a Fluidampr, engine oil cooler lines, decent 265/75R16 load range E Firestone - I think they are Transforce TAs- going on memory.

Recent work includes, AC Delco 60G glow plugs, starter, IP rebuilt, rebuilt balanced injectors, transmission rebuilt. Some front end work and brakes. It also has a new, never installed fuel tank. The tank on it leaked if filled over 3/4 full.

All work was done not too long before it got killed.

The Tahoe has been sitting since I drove it in the shop to change injectors and seal the valve covers. 4 years now. I believe. I'm sure there is a related post. I was also swapping to an F intake, as long as I was removing the intake anyway
 
treegump said:
It has a plug, but I don't know if it works.
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Use a multi meter, check at the cords plug end between the two flat blades, if I remember correctly. should be continuity between the two blades and maybe between one of the blades and the round grounding terminal.
If there is no continuity, remove cord end at the heater and check for continuity through each cord strand, most times it is the cord.
If continuity is good, then, check for continuity between the heaters terminals. if no continuity there then heater is shot.
 
The cord on My K3500 was okay, then, when it got to about 20 below last winter, the cord burned out. The truck started right up but it took a bit longer cranking than usual. Puffed some greyish smoke and stuttered for a little while. LOL
New cord and all is good once again. LOL
 
treegump said:
Turned my volt meter to continuity and it read 1 at the plug. So... I'm guessing at least the plug is bad.
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Sometimes the plug becomes unplugged from the block heater. I have had that several times. Especailly after having others work on something. I always wonder how?

Unplug the cord and test for continuity, end to end. Give it a good visual. You may just needn
A new end on the cord. A new cord is not much more than a good male plug end
 
So... Is there an adapter for the PMD connector?

Plugged in a new PMD into the crappy 2 piece harness that's there and the new foot pedal, and no noticeable difference, but I didn't have a chance to work on it long.20200125_171958.jpg20200125_171936.jpg
 

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treegump said:
I wonder if the $35 injection pump pmd harness would work.

A wiring harness might but a great idea, but if I can confirm it runs first, that would be fantastic..
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Yeah, it would be nice to hear it run, even if it was for only several seconds, enough so a person could determine if it sounded good enough to invest more into it.
 
Back to the block heater... When the coolant is really cold and plugging-in the heater, you can hear it for about the first half minute. Sounds a bit like a sizzle.

But with an Ohm reading of 1, does not look like I'd expect to hear anything. If possible, might try to get a reading directly at the heater without the extension to start isolating which link in the chain is the issue. Cables / cords with alligator clips will help here.
 
I'll get the $35 cord - although - this is the response I got back from Quadstar:
"You(')d need both the injection pump harness and a PMD extension cable to repair that. And remove the intake to install it so intake gaskets also"

If I actually need to remove the intake, that would be a prime time to move the harness outside of that valley, wouldn't it?

As for the block heater - I'll check it the next chance I get. I purchased a cheap chinese knock-off amp meter clamp, so might try that out as well. On Sunday I cleaned out the wire rat nest that was connected to the trailer brake controller (if I get it running, I'll rerun all that wiring) and also noticed that the coolant supply/overflow tube is kinked at the reservoir.

As soon as I get the title back, I'll probably post it for sale at a firm price of what I have in it = mat'l & time - not because I'm giving up but because if someone were to purchase it, I can buy something else, haha. And I'll continue working on it in the mean time and hope I get it fixed before it gets sold, or sold before I find that the motor is a dud.

The goal is always to get something better.
 
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If you replace the harness, the new one would be good for the next 25 years, and it all wont fit well "outside" the valley.

a clamp on ammeter over the cord wont work because hot and neutral will both be inside the current transformer clamp. You have to clamp over just the hot or just the neutral to do that. I think the suggestions of replace the cord after testing the element separate of the cord is ok- BUT not until you simply try plugging it in. Don't over analyze all the possible repairs of the heater to the point you go buy parts when it might be working just fine-especially if you might just sell the truck.

Starting fluid is not your friend - but spraying a little squirt of diesel down each runner of the intake isn't hard and is mighty close to free. IF and only IF you already plan on new glow plugs AND have someone crank it while you LIGHTLY spritz starter fluid in it, you might learn something about its ability to run. play nice though💣
 
treegump said:
I'll get the $35 cord - although - this is the response I got back from Quadstar:
"You(')d need both the injection pump harness and a PMD extension cable to repair that. And remove the intake to install it so intake gaskets also"

If I actually need to remove the intake, that would be a prime time to move the harness outside of that valley, wouldn't it?

As for the block heater - I'll check it the next chance I get. I purchased a cheap chinese knock-off amp meter clamp, so might try that out as well. On Sunday I cleaned out the wire rat nest that was connected to the trailer brake controller (if I get it running, I'll rerun all that wiring) and also noticed that the coolant supply/overflow tube is kinked at the reservoir.

As soon as I get the title back, I'll probably post it for sale at a firm price of what I have in it = mat'l & time - not because I'm giving up but because if someone were to purchase it, I can buy something else, haha. And I'll continue working on it in the mean time and hope I get it fixed before it gets sold, or sold before I find that the motor is a dud.

The goal is always to get something better.
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I think that Quadstar recommends laying their harness to the outside of the intake manifold.
A simple volt ohms meter, usually about 15 bucks at Walmart will tel You if Your cord is okay. place the dial on an ohms scale, touch together the two lead, should come up with all zeroes, as in zero resistance. Place one lead into the heater end of the cord, the other lead against one of the wall socket terminals, if no reading then switch to the other wall socket terminal, if zeroes dont come up then the cord is fried or busted. Pretty simple aaaand, You have a nice little meter for testing other functions.
 
It can go either way. I ran mine underneath because my braided fuel lines are in the way up top. The harness is better made than the original so will probably last longer. The guy that makes them lives in Texas and it is a real nice harness. The glow plug harness is designed to be run up top as well, at least the passenger side, and it cannot be run underneath. The number 8 wire is too short to run it that way.
 
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