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1995 K2500 - $1k Facebook Find

treegump

treegump

Romans 3:22-24
Messages
2,296
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981
Location
Martinsville, IN
So, I just told btfarm that I wasn't going to do this until I got the truck home, especially since I don't have photos, but here is what I've got:

Just bought a 95 K2500 ext cab long bed manual transmission with a 6.5 that refuses to stay running for $1000. With title!

Had to leave it where it sat since I didn't drive a truck and trailer in today, but plan on zip-tying the clutch pedal and bumping it on the trailer - hopefully, haha.

Per the seller - truck ran amazing for 10 years until 1 day the PO high-tailed it 12+ miles because his wife was in a wreck and ever since it wouldn't stay running. They supposedly tried a new PMD and that didn't work. They diagnosed it as the injection pump - but I'm going to try the pedal (especially if I can find mine from 9-10 years ago.) The oil level was weirdly high and thick. No sign of water in it though. The front bumper was cut off - had a snowplow but didn't look like it. Coolant overflow tank had fluid in it. PMD is repositioned to a bracket on the intake. 223k miles. valve covers look like they've gotten hot. Bumper hitch but not gooseneck.

Says it'll start with a shot of starter fluid. And then run rough.

I'll post pictures when I get them.

VIN: 1GCGK29F7SE222925

Will L has already suggested a few worst case scenarios:
1) Blown head gasket, cracked block or head. Drained and refilled oil and coolant then gave up.
2)If it is not coolant then fuel is the only other thing to raise the oil level with. Injector starts dumping a ton of fuel and it washes down the cylinder..?

I'm hoping for best case scenario - foot pedal or lift pump or clogged fuel filter, hahaha
 
I am concerned about that ak diesel driver as well. I considered using starting fluid to see if I could get it to run up on the trailer, but I think I might try bumping it first. I also have a come-along, if all else fails. It appears to have 2 new batteries, so hopefully I won't need the come-along.

I'll for sure be changing the oil and oil filter, as well as changing out the fuel filter at first chance I have to work on it. If I can find my pedal, I'll change that also. I'll also do some research on here to see if there's any tests I can do before I start spending money.

Quick reminder - assuming the coolants never been flushed - what kind is supposed to be in it? It looks like it's dexcool..

The previous owner was supposedly a used auto sales/mechanice - so here's to hoping that it's in better shape than worst case...
 
Buy the 1/4” clear tubing for the ip return and get that on there first. Air intrusion could be the entire no start issue.

I didn’t catch the starting fluid thing first time. Glowplugs are worthless after starting fluid.
Get it home and begin with compression test and leakdown test. Hook up new glowplugs to truck wiring see that they light before installing to know the glow system is working fine.
Crank the engine with them out and fuel solenoid connected back up after comp/leak down tests to see proper fuel spray out cylinders while it’s apart.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Looks like quite a load for that trailer. LOL
Click to expand...

Oh, you have no idea...

However - it's got a 2-5/16" hitch, so I'm not quite sure what the deal is. I wonder if it's just worn out? If you look closely, I have the front tires parked on the ramps of the trailer, because I was concerned of the quality of the floors.

3 of the 4 tires are rated for 45 psi, but they are dry rotted excessively and the 4th is rated for 35 psi (but looked decent).

Someone at work offered to let me use the company trailer, but than I'd have to unload and reload the truck. :-(
 
Got it home, unloaded it by bumping the starter.

Before unloading, I tightened the questionable battery cables and swapped out the accelerator pedal that I took off my 96, 10 yrs ago.

Once off the trailer, I cranked it while applying pressure to the pedal and it fired up. Ran like a scalded dog and belched out white and black smoke.

I hit the pedal to knock it off the high idle and than it went from couple hundred rpm to high idle and it kept bouncing back and forth with a cloud of black smoke on each high idle.

Got out and noticed the serpentine belt wasn't moving. Turned ignition off, pulled belt out, tensioner busted, pulled fuel filter and it doesn't look fantastic - poured a little atf in it, poured rest in fuel tank, put filter back in, cranked it and stopped for the time being.

I'll be buying a new fuel relay and when it stops raining, check the cab fuses. A bunch of electronics don't work. I'm wondering if it's just a grounding issue?20200111_105651.jpg20200111_105656.jpg20200111_105700.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't know how to edit from a phone, but I meant grounding, not grinding issue.

Also, I had originally thought a PMD and I know that I shouldn't believe the seller, but I wish there was a way to check that first.

Regardless, at least the PMD is relocated.

And what also REALLY concerns me, was the belt wasn't turning.. So, I hope that's just from them working in it and they somehow broke the tensioner, but makes me wonder how long it's ran and how hot it's gotten with no water pump passing water through...

But, first things first. Belt, tensioner, battery connections, fuses, fuel pump relay (unless someone tells me otherwise on relay it I can test it). Check a few, if not all, grounds. And go from there.
 
Years ago I bought a C3500 for the tires and parts. The PO used either liberally on it, I never got it to run. All 8 cylinders had around 110 psi compression.
 
Ok-it's been 10 years since I researched where to relocate the PMD. I apologize for my earlier ignorance "relocation" statement.

I'll see if there's enough harness to go the distance to...somewhere since I don't have a front bumper yet, haha.

There's someone local that has a 6.5, but that'd be weird to ask if I could try their pmd in mine, haha.
 
But honestly - would the fuel pump relay and/or grounds cause my issues. Or should I move past that (not ignore, just not put my hope that it's the issue), and focus on the PMD.

Also, I'm assuming that pedal from my 96 might be bad, as I did replace it 10 years ago, haha. Is it possible that it could be the issue.

(BTW - I had planned on researching all this so please don't chew me out. I'm loving the assistance and the brainstorming, but fearful of flack for asking questions that have already been asked and answered. In fact, there's someone that bought a truck at the end of 2019 that I've saved his project because it sounds like he had the same symptoms. It'll probably be a few days or a week/two before I get back to mine, but appreciate any or all of the assistance, regardless of on here, or on someone else's project!)
 
That comment wasn't directed at you Forest. Just the previous owner. Ask any questions you want and we'll do our best to answer them. Best place for the PMD is the front bumper. I'd start with the cheap free stuff first namely grounds as they can cause all kinds of issues. Relays don't go bad very often and are fairly easy to test.
 
No worries AK. No offense was taken here - I saw the comment as a jab and not anything serious, haha.

And as far as along questions, I didn't want anyone getting upset because I was asking questions that had been answered elsewhere. But you guys are being as awesome as when I left, so I'm very thankful of that.

I'll start with cheap and easy and obvious (belt/tensioner/battery cables/fuses) and work from there.

Thanks!!
 
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