1969 IH 1300D 4X4 - Pump Truck

[BIGR]

Tell the owner of that boat to hold his horses, there's a major pandemic going on...

 

[DieselSlug]

Tell the owner of that boat to hold his horses, there's a major pandemic going on...

I dont think he has any plans to get out on the water but I do know he wants to get some stuff installed on it.

 

[BIGR]

I dont think he has any plans to get out on the water but I do know he wants to get some stuff installed on it.

Just funning with you on that.....

Yelp, I suppose he is wanting something to do during lock down.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got a pic of what they call west coast mirrors with the IH stamp, these are sought after in good condition:

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Pulled the rear drum & hub units.
Driver below:

Passenger below:

 

[DieselSlug]

Cleaned up the rear drums and got the one taped up. The other will wait for the new inner bearing/race.

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Little miss QC inspector

 

[Husker6.5]

Looks like you have plenty of lining left on what looks to be a fairly recent set of rear brake shoes. If it were me, I'd say just disassemble, clean the backing plate and parts, paint the backing plate and any non-friction parts necessary, lube the pivot/wear points and reassemble them.

Going to have the drums checked/turned while they're off?

 

[DieselSlug]

I am surprised at how much shoe there is as only 1 brake worked on this truck! I'm guessing either way out of adjustment or the WC are seized. I actually already ordered all of the brake components prior to disassembly (shoes, WC's, adjusters and spring kits as they were cheap). Due to the pandemic I wanted to have ample order/delivery time.

My plan was to turn the drums however the IH gurus highly recommended not doing that as the drums are unobtainable. My plan is to put them back on and try them out and turn only if I must. They do look to be in very good condition surprisingly. Only some pitting on 1, passenger rear.

 

[Husker6.5]

Perhaps not working is why the linings are in such great shape! Yeah, if you already have the parts. . . Didn't know that about those drums. Really rare and aren't the same as other drums used on that rear full floater by other truck manufacturers? That does seem a little strange, but then again IH did always seem to drum to the beat of their own marcher.

 

[Will L.]

just take a scotch brite pad and hand scuff them. If you are out of scotch brite pad, check the kitchen sink for the sponge with the green scrubber pad on back. You can tell the wife "Will said I could have one!" Justdon't let her tell my wife I'm in trouble...

 

[DieselSlug]

Good idea, I actually have a rectangular piece I use in the basement to clean electrical connectors.

 

[Husker6.5]

I was going to suggest that. That, or you can take a piece of Emory cloth and lightly, in a circular motion, burnish the contact area inside the drum to "break" the glaze. Those drums do look amazingly good in those photos, I don't see any noticable grooves or ridges in them. It's quite possible that it had a rear "brake job" done on it recently (mileage-wise) before you got it. That would explain the nearly new-looking brake shoe linings and drum surfaces and the pretty clean looking backing plate and hardware in the photos (unless you brushed/blew or brake cleanered them before taking pictures).

Are you going to replace hoses and the steel lines to the fronts and rears during this restoration, too?

 

[DieselSlug]

I was going to suggest that. That, or you can take a piece of Emory cloth and lightly, in a circular motion, burnish the contact area inside the drum to "break" the glaze. Those drums do look amazingly good in those photos, I don't see any noticable grooves or ridges in them. It's quite possible that it had a rear "brake job" done on it recently (mileage-wise) before you got it. That would explain the nearly new-looking brake shoe linings and drum surfaces and the pretty clean looking backing plate and hardware in the photos (unless you brushed/blew or brake cleanered them before taking pictures).

Are you going to replace hoses and the steel lines to the fronts and rears during this restoration, too?

I will definitely take something somewhat abrasive as you say to try and freshen up where the pad rides. They are all very smooth with no grooves and a tiny rust ridge on the passenger rear that I wire wheeled down carefully. I didn't clean up anything in there surprisingly, picture was taken as soon as I pulled the drum to not disturb anything in case I needed it to put back together.

I replaced the front rubbers with new custom made units so most likely will be doing the same at the rear flex hose. Most of the steel brake lines are in superb condition and I am reusing, however some small pieces had corrosion up front and I purchased a stick of NiCopp line and a Rigid double flare tool to replace as necessary.

 

[MrMarty51]

I usually use 80 grit black sanding paper on drums and disks that I are not turning. It seems to work quite well.

 

[Husker6.5]

That's a pretty aggressive cut, IMHO. You want to break the glaze and give the pads/shoes a surface to 'bite' and seat into, not rows to plant corn in! LOL!

 

[MrMarty51]

That's a pretty aggressive cut, IMHO.

IDK, seemed to work quite well for a lot of years.
Usually by the time a person scrubs enough to get the glaze removed, the sanding paper has dulled down a lot and so the end results aint as bad as it sounds. LOL
I also use the 80 grit on the DA sander for flat flywheels and keep rotating the fly wheel so I dont pick up a pattern. Have not ever had a problem with doing this, but, I always also thoroughly scrub the surfaces with sudsy detergent and hot water to remove the grindings.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the axles, conical wedges and hardware painted up! All the brake parts are in. Just waiting for the seals and new bearing. (still need to order the bearing, having trouble cross referencing).

 

[Husker6.5]

One of the problems with working on old orphan brands, finding parts by the manufacturer's PN. Have you tried measuring the bearing's OD, ID and Width and cross referencing those with TRW, Chicago Rawhide, SKB and Timken dimensions to see if you can come up with an equivalent bearing/seal? Things like roller/ball/taper bearings and seals, regardless of the vehicle brand installed on, are pretty much standard for dimensions and dimensional increments (mm's, 64ths or thousandths).

 

[DieselSlug]

I am in the process of it with my caliper. Having issues finding the race. For some reason it's a separate sale.

 

[ak diesel driver]

That's not uncommon

 

[Husker6.5]

Outer and inner races for tapered roller (Timken) bearings are often available/sold as separate pieces from the cage and roller assembly. I have also seen them sold as a complete set of inner and outer races and the rollers and cage in one box.