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‘94 Transfer Case

I think the kit looks like a solid & quality package

There is the spline difference, and different input shaft bearing sizes between the 94 and 95 model years. I think the cases will swap into the truck no problem. But if you want to rebuild the spare 95 it's best to open it up first and verify input shaft bearing size and the chain width & number of links. That way you know for sure what rebuild kit to get
 
Nope. I guess you could measure it?

I went out and measured it with the calipers and got an ID measurement of 32.5 to 33.0 mm
Measuring only works if the splined are the same size as opposed to the shaft.

The Toro's have a fine and course spline on the same diameter shaft.

I'll get counting when I get outside.

I sometimes have trouble with numbers bigger than 4
 
I think the kit looks like a solid & quality package

There is the spline difference, and different input shaft bearing sizes between the 94 and 95 model years. I think the cases will swap into the truck no problem. But if you want to rebuild the spare 95 it's best to open it up first and verify input shaft bearing size and the chain width & number of links. That way you know for sure what rebuild kit to get
I was tempted to split the case today, but I just e-mailed the vendor instead, including the pic of the model tag. They should know w/o my having to split the case. I don’t want to get all dirty just before family comes over.

I reviewed a bunch of how to videos on rebuilding the NP 214 C and it seems rather simple. I’m guessing the seal that leaks is on the input shaft as they say that it is prone to getting brittle. Will I need to press seals and bearings in or can they be tapped in with an appropriate sized wheel bearing tool and a mallet?
 
Nope. I guess you could measure it?

I went out and measured it with the calipers and got an ID measurement of 32.5 to 33.0 mm
The input measures about 30.4 mm at the outside of the spline according to my harbor freight digital caliper that I don't trust for anything.
48.43 OD.
 

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The input measures about 30.4 mm at the outside of the spline according to my harbor freight digital caliper that I don't trust for anything.
48.43 OD.
I measured between splines. Harbor Freight digital. 32 spine is pretty much what our Chevy’s got.
 
I punted on splitting the ‘95 case on Thanksgiving. Went shooting with my son on Friday left for Montana on Saturday. Vendor messaged back they would need the VIN# to get the right rebuild kit for the transfer case. Easy to get the VIN# off the ‘94, but the ‘95 wreck is long gone. Texted my son to see if he still has and paperwork on it and he did. Hooray!
 
Get out the engraver and put that vin number on the case. while going through it.
That’ll help you & whoever in the future..
 
94/95 was a crossover year for that transfer case, so still probably best to split it to find what size input bearing it has. As far as I know you can't decipher model year from the tag on the 241, which is probably why the vendor went by VIN

I've split a 241 open several times, they are really simple and not difficult to work on when it comes to seals, chain, and some bearings. There's a few blind hole bearings that will need some kind of puller if you want to go that deep into it. Some just leave the bearings and do the seals, plastic tabs on the shift fork and call it good. Getting the rear output shaft assembled is a bit tricky with the oil pump sliding around and pickup tube easily dislodged. Just take it easy going back together and you'll be good.

I don't see this bushing in the rebuild kit, it's for the tail housing, link if you want to go the extra mile


Also I suggest this upgraded snap ring as part of the output shaft assembly, much sturdier than factory and prevents future problems of the slip yoke repeatedly slamming into the single snap ring


Finally when re-sealing everything Permatex Optimum Black is my recommendation, a hard gasket maker did not play nice with my case. I use Optimum black on pretty much everything with great results. I also run TriboDyn 75W90 gear oil in my case instead of ATF, but I'm putting a lot more abuse on my rig so either would be fine for your application
 
94/95 was a crossover year for that transfer case, so still probably best to split it to find what size input bearing it has. As far as I know you can't decipher model year from the tag on the 241, which is probably why the vendor went by VIN

I've split a 241 open several times, they are really simple and not difficult to work on when it comes to seals, chain, and some bearings. There's a few blind hole bearings that will need some kind of puller if you want to go that deep into it. Some just leave the bearings and do the seals, plastic tabs on the shift fork and call it good. Getting the rear output shaft assembled is a bit tricky with the oil pump sliding around and pickup tube easily dislodged. Just take it easy going back together and you'll be good.

I don't see this bushing in the rebuild kit, it's for the tail housing, link if you want to go the extra mile


Also I suggest this upgraded snap ring as part of the output shaft assembly, much sturdier than factory and prevents future problems of the slip yoke repeatedly slamming into the single snap ring


Finally when re-sealing everything Permatex Optimum Black is my recommendation, a hard gasket maker did not play nice with my case. I use Optimum black on pretty much everything with great results. I also run TriboDyn 75W90 gear oil in my case instead of ATF, but I'm putting a lot more abuse on my rig so either would be fine for your application
Thanks. Is there another vendor that sells a more complete kit?

Here’s the paperwork for the ‘95 with the VIN#:
6FEFA761-B5FF-4996-8EFA-89AFB0C11395.jpeg
 
I purchased a few kits and a chain from Transmissionpartsdistributors.com as I couldn't find a kit like the one you found (didn't really look too hard on ebay I guess) and it seemed to be a bit cheaper to buy the bearing and seals kit, the small parts kit, and the chain to make my own kit

I got the bearing and seals kit for '95: (note if you need the larger input bearing for '94 the SKU is BK241)


The small parts kit:


and the chain:


I also had to get the bushing I linked to earlier separately as it doesn't seem to be considered an internal wear part.

As I'm sure you've read about these rebuilds, one of the first things that wears out is the plastic tabs on the shift fork. Which is essentially why I got the small parts kit. You can also see in the small parts kit how feeble the snap rings are, don't even have tabs on them for snap ring pliers, which is why I really recommend the upgraded ring for the output.

I still haven't torn into my grenaded unit, but when I pulled the shift selector sensor it was covered in fine shavings so who knows what kind of grinding was going on. If you split the case and everything looks really good inside you could probably get away with just replacing the chain, plastic tabs and seals as the bearings are known to hold up for hundreds of thousands of miles.
 
I purchased a few kits and a chain from Transmissionpartsdistributors.com as I couldn't find a kit like the one you found (didn't really look too hard on ebay I guess) and it seemed to be a bit cheaper to buy the bearing and seals kit, the small parts kit, and the chain to make my own kit

I got the bearing and seals kit for '95: (note if you need the larger input bearing for '94 the SKU is BK241)


The small parts kit:


and the chain:


I also had to get the bushing I linked to earlier separately as it doesn't seem to be considered an internal wear part.

As I'm sure you've read about these rebuilds, one of the first things that wears out is the plastic tabs on the shift fork. Which is essentially why I got the small parts kit. You can also see in the small parts kit how feeble the snap rings are, don't even have tabs on them for snap ring pliers, which is why I really recommend the upgraded ring for the output.

I still haven't torn into my grenaded unit, but when I pulled the shift selector sensor it was covered in fine shavings so who knows what kind of grinding was going on. If you split the case and everything looks really good inside you could probably get away with just replacing the chain, plastic tabs and seals as the bearings are known to hold up for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I’ve watched a number of videos on this and it does seem pretty simple, but I do have questions.

One video the guy was converting from a NP 246 to a NP 241 C and he had to move the torsion bar crossmember to drop the transfer case. Is that pretty typical?

Few if any of the videos show replacing the pump. None of the kits include a pump. Is it typical to not replace the pump?

I suspect some of the bearings people pass on replacing are for the shift shaft.

I do like the Borg Warner chain, as the name gives me confidence.
 
I can't speak to swapping from a 246 to a 241. I've never had to do anything with the torsion bar crossmember when pulling my case off the manual trans. It is a PIA to pull and reinstall as you essentially have to bench press the thing up sideways and then once above the crossmember rotate it to align with the transmission

You don't need to replace the pump; it's on a shaft but somewhat loose, it has 4 tabs that rest on a face of the rear housing assembly. It's somewhat hard to explain but basically it's possible for the pump to slide within the large opening of the housing and have one of the tabs on the wrong side of the opening, preventing the case from fully sealing. I learned this the hard way when my two halves wouldn't close tightly, and tightening the case together snapped off one of the supporting tabs, which meant replacing the pump. Aside from that, just make sure the pump pickup tube stays in place when it all goes back together, you'll see what I mean one you open it up. If you run into any issues/ questions just post pictures here and I'll do what I can to help.

I felt the same way about the Borg Warner Chain

One more thing- at least on my manual transmission, getting to the top most bolt of the t-case (where it's mounted to the transmission) was incredibly difficult. Get yourself a ratcheting 15mm flex head wrench, it's really tight up there and done mostly by feel
 
Sent the ‘95 VIN # to the eBay vendor and got the boiler plate response:

Verify your chain prior to your purchase.

Your NP 241 case may have any 1 of 3 1.25" wide chains.

(36 links, 42 links, or 49 links)

I will be back down to Fullerton in February, so this project won’t happen for awhile.
 
Give JB Conversions a call. I got a complete rebuild kit from them awhile back when I rebuilt a 241-c for swapping in place of my 246. Quality parts and great service. Cost is a little higher than comparable kits on ebay, but wmore than likely you will be talking to the owner when you call and he can help you determine which kit you need.

Get yourself a big external snap ring plyers, which you probably know if you have been watching rebuild videos.

Use a gasket maker/sealer that you trust when reassembling the two halves.

Probably a rare case, but I had to track down a main shaft to replace the one in the 241 as it had one of the big snap ring grooves worn out real wide. Came from behind a 6.5 with broken crank so maybe that was it. It was a pain in the butt because I had to get it reassembled and didnt notice the main shaft was bad until the day I went to assemble it.

Anyway, its not too hard a project.
 
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