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Start with the wiring harnesses, incl battery cables, for connectivity - all grounding and termination must be clean and tight, no oxidation\corrosion - battery voltage and power connections must be electrically functional - loads of info on file here vis a vis correcting the various wiring...

At 219000mi it is likely that the IP, if original equipment, has given up the ghost - also just as likely that the IP harness, defective from the factory and upgraded in late '96, is problematical - check the Stanadyne label on the IP rear facing the intake plenum - black is '94-'95 oem, blue is...

Check the main PCM harness where it crosses the ac line at the bottom of the firewall - look for frayed chafed bare wiring which could blow the fuse - look for similar in the other wiring in the engine bay

Old wives indeed, and always seems to be a few here, MGW excluded - turbo's spinning, my ankle - it is to prevent rain from entering the exhaust stack - never know when the equip will be parked outside in a sudden deluge, or over-nite, or over a weekend, or Holiday - common sense, dudes: if ya...

:rolleyes5::nana::prrr:

It is to laff, my friends - anyway, yer oem engine and trans isolators are polyurethane from the factory, just a specific compound relevent to the vibrations inherent in the particular engine\drivetrain setup, and come only in pastel black - while that may clash with yer mauve eye-shadow, at...

"H2O vs "HG............... "I cain't get no.........resolution" to quote mick jagger, eh.................

Ok, no prob, then - just having inordinate amounts of fun with the facts.......just the facts, m'am, to quote Sgt Joe Friday Far as what some people are satisfied with, some brag about 250kmi on original IP, injectors, and timing chainset and having no problems - I've been in traffic adjacent...

It's still simple: read the pre-requisite sig to determine installed equipment - oem factory-balanced 21.1:1 Diesel engines meet certain specs within lower\upper tolerance limits - an after-market balanced engine can be set up to exactly meet the specs - adding 18:1 pistons will further reduce...

Yep - even the name should be a dead give-away: Polly engine mounts............

It's simple: gasser (patooie!) stuff for gassers (you know!) - Diesel equipment for Diesels - they do not interchange, even if similar appearance - live by that rule and you can't go wrong - for those that continually choose to ignore the repeated information on Diesel engines posted across...

'92-'93 had DB2-4911 replete with 4L80E trans - is a specific DB2 TPS and stand-alone TCM and wiring harness for those vehicles - can prolly nab a set at a local boneyard - GM had reissued the TCM and prolly the harness, several years back, and is the TCM sold by B&M, TCI, and several others

Should have a CEL - what are the associated DTC's???

None of the above - go in peace...............

FYI: Fass and Airdog are designed by a father and son team - one designed his unit for 18-wheelers - other designed his unit for the Dodges and such - similar concepts, different implementation, both help to eliminate fuel aeration - totally unnecessary on everyday street trucks, they were...

Understood - good pics and good job- if that decides to let loose, keep a long worm'n'gear-type hose clamp handy, long enuff to fit completely over'n'under the cover and manifold - that should hold it till you can get a replacement - see what they've got from military surplus, over there - Uncle...

Get a thread-sert or heli-coil repair kit - you retap the stripped hole, insert the new steel threads to bring it back to original size, and yer good to go - at one time that was standard practice for aluminum blocks, heads, and associated equipment

Not just you, my friend, so no prob - nobody seems to get the concept behind the CDR: there is no Walt Disney magic in that tuna can - it is a vapor pass-thru device which is designed to limit max inlet\crankcase vacuum to ~6"H2O, which is not much more than a baby's breath - to prevent the...

Again, dude, the ultimate goal of the CDR is to pass oily fumes from the hot crankcase directly into that rubber duct on the inlet of the turbocharger compressor - if you got no oily mess, something is dreadfully wrong - if you just cleaned the duct and it is squeaky-clean, give it a few weeks...

Those pics are blurry as hell on my monitor, but if that first pic is showing upper ring land, then the offending pistons should be replaced - as mentioned, keep the original rod-serts with the rod for each cylinder