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Did some much needed work this weekend

toddlnrd

My first diesel!
Messages
208
Reaction score
11
Location
Garner, NC
I removed the CDR and cleaned it with the recommended Autozone engine degreaser (thanks GMCTD).

Changed the oil and filter.

Changed the fuel filter (be careful how you seat the new filter, you could damage the gasket and have diesel fuel leak everywhere. Ask me how I know!!)

Checked the coolant tank for leaks (didn't find any). I have a small leak somewhere. It smells like it is coming from that area, but not enough to show any coolant on the driveway.

Cleaned the oil cooler, tranny cooler, and AC condenser. I finally figured out how to remove the front grill. Much easier to get to the tabs when you remove the turn signal lenses. I used the aforementioned Autozone engine degreaser with a light setting on the power washer. Seemed to be very affective.

Now for the part that I thought was going to be the most difficult, I changed the thermostats. Yes, I did spend the $68 for the AC Delco t-stats. My biggest concern was getting to that 4th bolt hidden under the t-stat housing. I was able to feel my way to it with a deep socket 15mm and a 3-inch extension. Once the 4 bolts were out, a little wiggle of the housing and off she came. Much easier than I thought!!

The thermostats that were in there did not look like the t-stats that I just bought. The AC Delcos have a rubber "jacket" around the spring area. (This must be what Turbine Doc was talking about, the bypass block?) The existing t-stats did not have this extra rubber (exposed spring). Worked that 4th bolt back in place and drove her hard.

Prior to Saturday, my truck would easily see 200 - 206 degrees F. Last summer, I drove thru the NC mountains and had to turn off the AC when the temp reached 212 degrees F. Now, the "big girl" will not go above 191 degrees F.

I will be taking her across country from NC to South Dakota next week. With the wife and 4 kids and all our stuff, this should be a good work out. I will let you know how cool she stays when I get back.

Todd
 
Good job, Todd! You'll like how it stays cooler now... it sucks having to shut down the AC with the family in the truck on a hot day... been there, done that. Not any more!

Have yourself a great holiday!

Jim
 
If AC\Delphi is still selling the originally spec'ed Robertshaw t-stats, they each flow ~15% more coolant than the stant\equiv versions, which is why they were spec'ed for both single and dual t-stat coolant manifolds
 
For the suburban, the leak may come from where they tee the coolant to the front and back after the quick disconnect. When it drips, it looks like they are coming from the coolant reservoir. The stoker is plastic like tube which usually gets brittle due to age. You can get some metal brass or ss tee from the hardware store and replace it.
 
Thanks JMJNet, would I be able to see it if I crawled under the truck? Sounds like an easy fix if it is accessible. Going to the hardware store tonight for other things, do you know what size tee I need.

Todd
 
Todd,

IIRC 5/8" or 3/4" barb tee. May be get the 5/8" so the hose slip in a little easier.

You fix it from the top, it is on the passenger side of the manifold.
There are 2 of them, in and out.

It may crumpled when you tried to take them out.

If it is leaking, you probably can see it at the bottom dripping.
 
Removed the turbo inlet hose and not a drop of oil in there. The cleaned CDR must be working properly.

Still running cool and fixed my small coolant leak. (Probably would have decided to blow coolant all over the place 2000 miles from home if I had not fixed it.)

This site is great.

Thanks,
Todd
 
Again, dude, the ultimate goal of the CDR is to pass oily fumes from the hot crankcase directly into that rubber duct on the inlet of the turbocharger compressor - if you got no oily mess, something is dreadfully wrong - if you just cleaned the duct and it is squeaky-clean, give it a few weeks to return to normal

Only EPA-approved method of preventing that mess is by installing the Provent 200 or the Racor equivalent between the CDR and the intake duct, plumbing the drain into the oil-pan sump below normal oil level, which keeps crankcase pressure from blowing back up the drain
 
Sorry to make you keep repeating yourself, gmctd. I will keep an eye on the intake for oily residue. It was not squeaky clean, but not as much oil as before.
 
Not just you, my friend, so no prob - nobody seems to get the concept behind the CDR: there is no Walt Disney magic in that tuna can - it is a vapor pass-thru device which is designed to limit max inlet\crankcase vacuum to ~6"H2O, which is not much more than a baby's breath - to prevent the messy intake, install a mist-condensate filter and go in peacable cleanliness, grasshopper..................
 
Not just you, my friend, so no prob - nobody seems to get the concept behind the CDR: there is no Walt Disney magic in that tuna can - it is a vapor pass-thru device which is designed to limit max inlet\crankcase vacuum to ~6"H2O, which is not much more than a baby's breath - to prevent the messy intake, install a mist-condensate filter and go in peacable cleanliness, grasshopper..................

so...thanks for clarifying the purpose of the CDR. I know, I know - I've probably read it several times before, but now it makes sense. If anyone has ever owned a 24 vlv cummins truck - I think we can relate. The CDR vlv is a redirectional part for the crankcase fumes. On the 24 vlv, the crankcase gunk just was let out in the front part of the block and then the fan sucked it around to clog the front of the radiator. (If you're confused, I've got pics and references) I'm glad someone was thinking when venting and rerouting that oily mess.
 
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