x3 on letting it run and 30mins to an hr then change. I usually go 500, then 1000, then the full 3000. On synthetic I would say a minimum of a 1000 miles, I always thought 10,000 was a better number before switching over, it can take a awhile for rings to seat and other wear parts like cams and...
Yeah, the split window vettes, imps, chevelles- wow. I have always liked the early and late second gens. The middle years were are kinda hideous. The goal is spring. Gotta moving to make that happen.
Yep, damn thing it sounded exactly like a belt slipping. When it ate the first belt the belt left rubber on the pullies. Anyway going to pull the air box this weekend and double check the turbo bolts. The whole dog bites you once kinda thing.
I like those Chevelles, definitely one of gms styling hits. Love the old stuff from mid 60's into the early seventies. Our 69 c10 sat from 2000-2008. I will be looking for your car in an upcoming project thread.
Turbo secure- well in the old forum format that I would have given myself the diesel retard smiley! I will be brief, basically installed the a- team last October on T. Started noticing a strange sound in late December last year and around this time I threw a serp belt. Replaced with a new and it...
Thanks!The sound with the duals and the straight pipe flat rocks!
I have been very happy with the Moose Pump and Conestoga Diesel. They are only 4hrs or so away from me- I had them set my timing after install. Finding a shop down this way that knows, understands, and works on 6.2/6.5s is hard...
Thanks. The heads were #8 heads- the big chambered one with dished pistons. The thing could probably run on cat pee, compression had to under 8:1. I was considering building the Olds motor and picked up a set of the correct #6 heads for the motor with bigger intake valves. But when I started...
I always liked the styling of the Reatta- to bad it drove the wrong set of wheels!
Keeping an eye on this thread, Looks to be a cool project. Keep up the good work.
That is alot of crud on the valve. I wish I had taken pictures. Had a 305 gasser once that had the same crud about a 1/4-3/8 thick on the valve all the way to the seat cut! The same 305 broke a piston skirt because the drain back holes in the heads were packed with crud. I had golf ball sized...
Good to hear someone has had a similar issue WarWagon. Yes, the back one is PITA! I used locknuts this time Snarl, they were fun since they stop hand threading once the top of the nut flushes with the top of the stud, after that it is a wrench or socket only deal!