Hope it go's smoothly.
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The TerraShuttle is getting a military Optimizer! Now what?
- Thread starter Sentinelist
- Start date
Sentinelist
Active Member
They're now saying it needs new rods and main bearings after they found some grime in there. Taking care of that as further prevention and peace of mind... What else is there that I'm not touching at this point? I guess the pistons, which are OK. Basically a full rebuild, though both shops say the motor looks like it has no more than 10k miles on it, tops. They're also polishing the crank. All the shiny black paint is coming off though they said, no biggie I guess as long as it's a clean silver left behind.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
That's how mine was too. Better to do it right (and thoroughly) while you're in there. I don't recall, are you doing cam bearings? Those are a must.
Sentinelist
Active Member
Thanks yes, cam bearings are being replaced by the same shop doing this initial work along with the gapless rings. I'm unfamiliar with the pin bushings. The added cost to do the rods and bearings was another few hundred bucks.
Sentinelist
Active Member
Motor is out of the machine shop as of Monday and back at the diesel shop, who is still running behind... I'm calling every few days for an update but it's just been "trying to get this other truck together first then yours is next".
The swap was supposed to start happening today, but I'll call tomorrow to see. What did I say about November, eh? Ranch projects are really starting to stack up. I'm now planning to take a day off work the day it's done to pick it up, get it inspected and do another oil change, and spend the rest of the day hauling stuff in- 20 square bales of hay and a few 12' gates mainly. Might do two oil changes in one day! (Leroy advised cheap 10w40 at the shop, drain and refill after 50 miles, then drain and synthetic after 250 miles I think... good advice- thanks, Leroy. correct me if I'm wrong).
If my next update is having the truck back in my hands and running well, I'll make a new thread with pics.
The swap was supposed to start happening today, but I'll call tomorrow to see. What did I say about November, eh? Ranch projects are really starting to stack up. I'm now planning to take a day off work the day it's done to pick it up, get it inspected and do another oil change, and spend the rest of the day hauling stuff in- 20 square bales of hay and a few 12' gates mainly. Might do two oil changes in one day! (Leroy advised cheap 10w40 at the shop, drain and refill after 50 miles, then drain and synthetic after 250 miles I think... good advice- thanks, Leroy. correct me if I'm wrong).
If my next update is having the truck back in my hands and running well, I'll make a new thread with pics.
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cheap 15-40
250-500 miles. Some say to go longer to seat the rings, but new cars come brand new with synthetic so rings on these motors should break in too.
250-500 miles. Some say to go longer to seat the rings, but new cars come brand new with synthetic so rings on these motors should break in too.
Antique engine design this be I recommend minimum 1000 miles before synthetic. Ring seating is critical and I have seen an engine where the 2nd ring did not seat. No amount of abuse after that would seat them so it had blowby.
Be careful on oil brands as I have seen different results in UOA from different brands. Your engine gets used to an oil so keep using the same brand. Avoid the cheap oil during the critical break in of your engine.
Be careful on oil brands as I have seen different results in UOA from different brands. Your engine gets used to an oil so keep using the same brand. Avoid the cheap oil during the critical break in of your engine.
Sentinelist
Active Member
Should I still dump it after the first ~50 miles? Or just run it for 250-1000 mi right off the bat? Cost of oil is not a big deal to me for something like this. I may just start running Rotella right off the bat.
The shop said they were getting started on it first thing yesterday morning. Trying to not piss the guy off too much, so I'll call for another update late Monday if no word before then. NEXT WEEK?
The shop said they were getting started on it first thing yesterday morning. Trying to not piss the guy off too much, so I'll call for another update late Monday if no word before then. NEXT WEEK?
100 Miles is ok to dump it and change the filter. Gets the stuff out that opening up a engine lets in. 50's almost too short. Next change at 1000 miles if you do UOA, otherwise 500 miles / whatever you like. Most break wear in should be complete at 500 miles and finally at 1000 miles.
I run mine 30 minutes to an hour then dump it. You never know if there is some big chunk from rebuild got in there. Then again 250 miles later.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
X2. And then again at the 1K mile mark, and so-on until you are confident in stretching out to longer intervals. As WW mentions, oil analysis will help with this.
My vote is to hold off a bit on the synthetic. Agree that new motors can run synthetic as they benefit from current technology which builds them to different tolerances.
For when to switch over to synthetic, I'd wait until oil analysis shows that the oil is starting to run clean (for a diesel). As a reference point, I am just under the 10K mile mark on the new P-400 and have yet to run conventional oil past 3,500 miles as UOA keeps coming back as 'abnormal' for metal particles; also, the first few changes were on much shorter intervals. Have a contact at AMG who feels that even though the UOA shows 'abnormal', the motor is within its normal profile at this point.
When I can get the motor's UOA profile to level-off, will switch over to synthetic as I'd rather not waste the money on frequently dumping synthetic.
Chevypoor
Active Member
x3 on letting it run and 30mins to an hr then change. I usually go 500, then 1000, then the full 3000. On synthetic I would say a minimum of a 1000 miles, I always thought 10,000 was a better number before switching over, it can take a awhile for rings to seat and other wear parts like cams and lifters to fully break in. Oil analysis is a great way to protect your invest and I agree with Jay- it will let you know for sure when Synthetic is a go. And no on the cheap oil as well. Get the best dino juice you can afford. I like Chevron Delo on my diesels and I run Valvoline race oil in all my old gassers- it still has the zinc in it for max cam life.
Sentinelist
Active Member
Great tips- thanks, all. I'll plan to dump the initial dino fill after an hour or so and keep running it while the rings are seated. Was unaware of this being part of the break-in period, and having the oil analysis is not a bad idea. It'd be nice to have a contact at AMG who can vouch on the parameters if I have them to share.
The shop says almost all the ancillaries have swapped over successfully and the engine is almost ready, but still on the stand, and the old mill is still in the truck. I pressed for a wide ETA perhaps sometime this week and got back, "I'm going to play it by ear." He says he's taking his time getting it put back together properly and so it'll look nice, as he hasn't done a 6.5 in awhile and wants it done right the first time. I trust this and respect that. I also gave him Leroy's contact info if he runs into any technicalities.
Distance makes the heart grow fonder, right?
The shop says almost all the ancillaries have swapped over successfully and the engine is almost ready, but still on the stand, and the old mill is still in the truck. I pressed for a wide ETA perhaps sometime this week and got back, "I'm going to play it by ear." He says he's taking his time getting it put back together properly and so it'll look nice, as he hasn't done a 6.5 in awhile and wants it done right the first time. I trust this and respect that. I also gave him Leroy's contact info if he runs into any technicalities.
Distance makes the heart grow fonder, right?
jrsavoie
Recruit
In my opinion, it is a good idea to have even new injectors tested and balanced