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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Big T said:
I should clarify that the speaker that was crackling and static sounding when hooked to the DS 2nd door wiring, worked perfectly on the passenger side 2nd door wiring. Wiring tested fine on the multimeter, so my conclusion and that of JBL warrant rep was that a channel was out in the amplifier.

JBL warranty rep suggested testing with another amplifier, so I bought one.
Click to expand...
Installed the used amplifier I bought off eBay for $35 and it corrected the problem in the DS 2nd Door Speaker.

Before:

After:

I then installed the reverse gear bypass harness for the Pioneer Head Unit thinking it would recover the rear roof speakers, but it did not. Now I need to troubleshoot the rear roof speakers.
 
Finally, I reunited the 2nd row seats with the ‘99 Suburban after hauling them up from Fullerton, CA to Stevensville, MT. They previously were removed to allow the hauling of an 8’ stainless work table/cabinet.

I think that’s about it today for work on the ‘99 K2500 Suburban.
 
Rear roof speaker update: Rear roof speakers are blown. I tested the wiring in both locations with one of the new JBL GTO-939 speakers and it worked in both locations. I need to trim an arc in the backing metal to clear the larger magnet on the new speakers. Also have some Metra plugs on order for the quick hook up. But finally the finish line on this install is in sight.
 
Too short for a new thread in ‘Electrical.’
Years ago, I realized the OEM bulbed 3rd Brake Light / Cargo Lamp fixture needed replacement. Bought an LED unit that worked fine…for a while. Cheap unit that I replaced with a ‘better one.’ All good until a year or so ago, the cargo lamp stopped working. I’d T spliced in bed lights using those guillotine things and then removed and repaired the damaged wires. Figured this was the culprit. Brake light still came on so, ignored it until this week.
After testing components and voltages at points 1 - 4 the issue appeared to be the fixture itself.
IMG_0024.jpeg
1. Fuse 3 was obviously good because all the other shared items worked.
2. Removed and spliced in a new harness connector as part of the wire repair. 12v present on the Orange wire.
3. Tested the switch and all continuity checks were good.
4. 12v present at the connection only when the switch (3) is closed. Confirmed with multi-meter and test lamp probe.

I had bought a replacement 3rd Brake light when the cargo lamp quit but, kept it on the shelf until now. Installed it…did’t work either!?! Cheap Chineesium Parts (redundancy?) or is there another issue? Can’t return the light because it’s probably been too many years and, LMC’s restocking and shipping fees makes a refund moot.
“Reload!” The parts cannon and, with fingers crossed, ordered this one. Works as advertised. “Happy 250I’d America.”
Next project….
1785247964045.png
 
Paveltolz said:
Too short for a new thread in ‘Electrical.’
Years ago, I realized the OEM bulbed 3rd Brake Light / Cargo Lamp fixture needed replacement. Bought an LED unit that worked fine…for a while. Cheap unit that I replaced with a ‘better one.’ All good until a year or so ago, the cargo lamp stopped working. I’d T spliced in bed lights using those guillotine things and then removed and repaired the damaged wires. Figured this was the culprit. Brake light still came on so, ignored it until this week.
After testing components and voltages at points 1 - 4 the issue appeared to be the fixture itself.
View attachment 100255
1. Fuse 3 was obviously good because all the other shared items worked.
2. Removed and spliced in a new harness connector as part of the wire repair. 12v present on the Orange wire.
3. Tested the switch and all continuity checks were good.
4. 12v present at the connection only when the switch (3) is closed. Confirmed with multi-meter and test lamp probe.

I had bought a replacement 3rd Brake light when the cargo lamp quit but, kept it on the shelf until now. Installed it…did’t work either!?! Cheap Chineesium Parts (redundancy?) or is there another issue? Can’t return the light because it’s probably been too many years and, LMC’s restocking and shipping fees makes a refund moot.
“Reload!” The parts cannon and, with fingers crossed, ordered this one. Works as advertised. “Happy 250I’d America.”
Next project….
View attachment 100256do you have the whites hooked up as backup lights?
Click to expand...
 
Paveltolz said:
Too short for a new thread in ‘Electrical.’
Years ago, I realized the OEM bulbed 3rd Brake Light / Cargo Lamp fixture needed replacement. Bought an LED unit that worked fine…for a while. Cheap unit that I replaced with a ‘better one.’ All good until a year or so ago, the cargo lamp stopped working. I’d T spliced in bed lights using those guillotine things and then removed and repaired the damaged wires. Figured this was the culprit. Brake light still came on so, ignored it until this week.
After testing components and voltages at points 1 - 4 the issue appeared to be the fixture itself.
View attachment 100255
1. Fuse 3 was obviously good because all the other shared items worked.
2. Removed and spliced in a new harness connector as part of the wire repair. 12v present on the Orange wire.
3. Tested the switch and all continuity checks were good.
4. 12v present at the connection only when the switch (3) is closed. Confirmed with multi-meter and test lamp probe.

I had bought a replacement 3rd Brake light when the cargo lamp quit but, kept it on the shelf until now. Installed it…did’t work either!?! Cheap Chineesium Parts (redundancy?) or is there another issue? Can’t return the light because it’s probably been too many years and, LMC’s restocking and shipping fees makes a refund moot.
“Reload!” The parts cannon and, with fingers crossed, ordered this one. Works as advertised. “Happy 250I’d America.”
Next project….
View attachment 100256
Click to expand...
Are those white lights reverse lights?
 
OK while we’re on the electrical stuff, I finally finished the Pioneer Double Din AVH-2550 install on the ‘99. This has taken almost a year of troubleshooting to complete.

2nd door speakers were brand new JBL GTO-639. Driver’s side speaker was crackly. Working with JBL warranty rep, determined it was not the speaker and most likely the amplifier. Ordered a used OEM amplifier off eBay for $35 shipped and that fixed the problem.

Installed new JBL GTO-939 speakers in the rear roof position. Had to do major metal cutting in the mounting plates to get them in. The cut jobs were ugly, but they work and you’ll never see them. Initially one speaker did not work and it was the one I dropped when my wife came out to give me a kiss and tell me she was off on errands. The tweeters broke from their glued position. I epoxied them back into place. Upon initial install, this speaker did not work. I was sick over it and ordered a new pair off Amazon.

On Saturday I made a run to Deer Lodge for some 2nd door panels, roof speaker grills, and misc interior plastic parts from a salvager. This was an 1 hr 45 min run. Door panels came with speakers, so I decided to test if they were good using the wiring to the one roof speaker that was not working. This also tell me if the JBL speaker was bad.

Well when I pulled JBL speaker, one of the female wire plugs was not attached. I attached it and the speaker worked. Must have dislodged it on the install. I tested the just acquired door speakers and they both worked, so now I’ve got back-ups for the front doors. I was able to cancel the Amazon order before it shipped. So all is good and I’ll live with it as is for now. This head unit has back-up camera capability and I have the back-up alarm on the ‘99, so that wiring can be used. That’s a longer term project.
 
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