Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Not to mention trying to burn them out makes you REALLY popular with the neighbors.
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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
If you're having difficulty pressing the old bushings out (my 12T HF press hasn't yet so far on any bearing or bushing I've done on it) try this trick:
Press out the center tube (the one that the bolt goes through) first. It should come out pretty easy with the old rubber bushing being shrunk/hard/crumbly/torn, neatness doesn't matter. Then take a 6" long 10 to 14 tpi blade in a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) and using the old center tube hole, start a cut from the center outward through the rubber bushing and carefully cut through the outer steel shell the entire length of the bushing. Liberally apply your favorite penetrating oil around the edge of the bushing shell on both ends and into the saw kerf you just made and let soak for a bit. Should press out easy-peasy. I used to use this method before I bought a 12Ton press a couple of years ago (why I never did before is beyond me) and a large socket the right diameter and a 2lb hand sledge to then drive the old busing out. The cut allows the outer shell to collapse inward a bit, which usually breaks free the corrosion (along with the penetrating oil) that is the cause of the bushing binding up in the control arm and not wanting to come out.
Press out the center tube (the one that the bolt goes through) first. It should come out pretty easy with the old rubber bushing being shrunk/hard/crumbly/torn, neatness doesn't matter. Then take a 6" long 10 to 14 tpi blade in a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) and using the old center tube hole, start a cut from the center outward through the rubber bushing and carefully cut through the outer steel shell the entire length of the bushing. Liberally apply your favorite penetrating oil around the edge of the bushing shell on both ends and into the saw kerf you just made and let soak for a bit. Should press out easy-peasy. I used to use this method before I bought a 12Ton press a couple of years ago (why I never did before is beyond me) and a large socket the right diameter and a 2lb hand sledge to then drive the old busing out. The cut allows the outer shell to collapse inward a bit, which usually breaks free the corrosion (along with the penetrating oil) that is the cause of the bushing binding up in the control arm and not wanting to come out.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Left rear turn signal failing again. Have replaced left and right complete units within the last two years. Left side I have had apart about three times, eveytime the weather goes from extreme cold to extreme warm, seems there are some kind of a metallic contacts that tweaks and then fails to connect. I think NAPA is getting this one back. Right side has never give a problem one. LOL
Rodd
Recruit
Kill 3 birds with 1 stone. Get rid of the birds that have been pooping on my wifes truck, kill the annoying mosquitoes, and piss off my neighbors. Sounds like a plan. LOL
Big T
Well-Known Member
Use the press. Burning them out creates a stinky mess, but some enjoy burning things.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Continued adventures with gauges and all the ancillary crap that goes on with these things.
Having cleaned grounds and added a couple I started pulling out old gauges. All the ISS[not}PRO stuff is out.
The CTS sender is working (OBDII Scan Tool indicates it is seeing the engine coolant temperature) but the OEM gauge in the instrument cluster isn't so I'll pull that and check connectivity etc.
To replace the EGT gauge sender, the fitting in the crossover wasn't budging with a wrench and the wrench was starting to round off the fitting. So I pulled the cross over to get at things better and was able to remove the sender without damage and then the fitting came out with a socket. Whew, thought I was going to have to use my old crossover or drill out the old fitting and chip out the remaining threads like that hot water bung at the T-Stat housing. Since there some discussion as to the effect of wrapping the crossover and it now being subject to rusting I unwrapped one side to see how things were looking under the stuff.
Wrapped
Unwrapped.
No issues after 5 years and 30K miles. Only rust is from the clamp crimping the two halves together being in direct contact with the pipe and that is very light and cleaned up with some steel-wool and elbow grease. I live in the high desert but, the truck is parked outside and we do get snow. The pipe was sourced through Heath Diesel. I never got him to tell me his source for the exhaust system but, it isn't whatever brand folks tend to recommend here.
One issue with the wrap is the clearances for the bolts to exhaust manifold suffer, even with studs and wrestling the crossover off the studs on the passenger side is further complicated by the down pipe being wrapped too. One can get the nuts off but, the socket is a pain on a couple of the nuts. I had other issues but, it stemmed from using studs so it won't apply to the majority here. I don't have a picture and I want to spare ya'll the '1000 words' that probably won't make any sense.
Having cleaned grounds and added a couple I started pulling out old gauges. All the ISS[not}PRO stuff is out.
The CTS sender is working (OBDII Scan Tool indicates it is seeing the engine coolant temperature) but the OEM gauge in the instrument cluster isn't so I'll pull that and check connectivity etc.
To replace the EGT gauge sender, the fitting in the crossover wasn't budging with a wrench and the wrench was starting to round off the fitting. So I pulled the cross over to get at things better and was able to remove the sender without damage and then the fitting came out with a socket. Whew, thought I was going to have to use my old crossover or drill out the old fitting and chip out the remaining threads like that hot water bung at the T-Stat housing. Since there some discussion as to the effect of wrapping the crossover and it now being subject to rusting I unwrapped one side to see how things were looking under the stuff.
Wrapped
Unwrapped.
No issues after 5 years and 30K miles. Only rust is from the clamp crimping the two halves together being in direct contact with the pipe and that is very light and cleaned up with some steel-wool and elbow grease. I live in the high desert but, the truck is parked outside and we do get snow. The pipe was sourced through Heath Diesel. I never got him to tell me his source for the exhaust system but, it isn't whatever brand folks tend to recommend here.
One issue with the wrap is the clearances for the bolts to exhaust manifold suffer, even with studs and wrestling the crossover off the studs on the passenger side is further complicated by the down pipe being wrapped too. One can get the nuts off but, the socket is a pain on a couple of the nuts. I had other issues but, it stemmed from using studs so it won't apply to the majority here. I don't have a picture and I want to spare ya'll the '1000 words' that probably won't make any sense.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Is the wrapped pipe stainless or galvanized?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
The trend seems to be aluminized
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
nobby
Old Timey Diesel Guy
LOL my Heath crossover did not look like that after 5 years under the wrap but then again I'm in the land of copious amounts of salt use. Replacement is now unwrapped and looking way better after several years.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
My first Heath sourced cross over doesn't look as good as this one and it was never wrapped.
In other news. I got the Coolant Gauge in the instrument panel working again. Must have corrected the right ground wire cause I'm not sure what exactly happened but, it's working as are the new AutoMeter ones...sorta. The Boost gauge only goes up to 5psi so I'm sure the little tube is possible being crimped somewhere on its path / maze through the A pillar. Oh well, chasing a P0401 (EGR insufficient something or other) on my son's Gasser today. Thinks its done but, since the city is repaving the street in front of the house, no road testing anything.
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
Tore down the Burb, crank pulley failed, so it's time to put all the parts on I have been setting aside. New harmonic balancer, seal, water pump, and electric fan clutch. now to @ak diesel driver thread on wire info one more time!
snarl95
Well-Known Member
replaced cv axle
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Sorted out the Boost gauge. As I thought, the tube was crimped/kinked at the back of the gauge. Not enough clearance in the way the pod is molded for the compression fitting and tube.
Used two 45 degree brass fittings and new compression fitting (all 1/8") to route around the issue in the pod's molding.
Works fine now. No more swinging / unresponsive Fuel, Pyrometer or Boost gauge needles.
Though I miss the green lighting of the ISSPRO's, the blue looks pretty good.
Used two 45 degree brass fittings and new compression fitting (all 1/8") to route around the issue in the pod's molding.
Works fine now. No more swinging / unresponsive Fuel, Pyrometer or Boost gauge needles.
Though I miss the green lighting of the ISSPRO's, the blue looks pretty good.
Attachments
Pruittx2
Been around a bit
just got home 500 mile trip to family and the cabin for a few days.
Gotta love the 3:42 gears. gonna fill it tomorrow and figure mileage. Then next week a new IP.
Once it's warmed up then shut down,, it won't start without a drink of water. ;(
Hope to have it till the kids are grown, the oldest has already called Dib's on dad's truck.
Gotta love the 3:42 gears. gonna fill it tomorrow and figure mileage. Then next week a new IP.
Once it's warmed up then shut down,, it won't start without a drink of water. ;(
Hope to have it till the kids are grown, the oldest has already called Dib's on dad's truck.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Replaced the foam in the driver’s seat of the ‘99 Suburban. The foam cushion I ordered said it was for 1999 to 2001 Silverado and 1500/2500 Suburban, but it was not an exact match on the sides. So I trimmed and glued pieces from the old to the new and all is good. Seat is much better now.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Replaced the front rotors on my wife’s 4Runner
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Spur of the moment Road Trip with the Burb. Rescued my 88 year old 2nd Cousin in northern UT when her car kaputed.
Took her to New Mexico to join her son; went over the mountains and down to Benson AZ to see Ted (635) and add some pretty stuff to his Gasser Burb; PHX to see mother-in-law and now for a stop in Flagstaff waiting on Ted to linkup and take me home....
RIP 1999 Suburban. Taken out in a left turn, T-Boned by a Jeep Patriot driven by a 20ish year old who doesn't know what a red light is. Spun me 100 degrees and ruined a beautiful day. I'm sure the gal's insurance company will not want to pay for the cost to replace the Fender, Flare, Inner Fender, Bumper, Bumper Filler, Valance, washer fluid tank, radiator, hub, ball joints, upper and lower control arms, CV half-shaft, tie-rods....
Took her to New Mexico to join her son; went over the mountains and down to Benson AZ to see Ted (635) and add some pretty stuff to his Gasser Burb; PHX to see mother-in-law and now for a stop in Flagstaff waiting on Ted to linkup and take me home....
RIP 1999 Suburban. Taken out in a left turn, T-Boned by a Jeep Patriot driven by a 20ish year old who doesn't know what a red light is. Spun me 100 degrees and ruined a beautiful day. I'm sure the gal's insurance company will not want to pay for the cost to replace the Fender, Flare, Inner Fender, Bumper, Bumper Filler, Valance, washer fluid tank, radiator, hub, ball joints, upper and lower control arms, CV half-shaft, tie-rods....
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Wow Paul hope you came out unscathed.
Guess I'll chime in. Haven't physically done anything with the Beast today. But answered a couple "is it still available" messages (really don't want to sell but have no $$ to fix, pmd killer) and getting really mad at someone who said it isnt worth $1000 that I'm asking... Stupid people who want a brand new truck for a grand...