MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
All I can think of is there must have been some oil in the threads of the dampener.
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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Nah. More likely some paint or powdercoat overspray residue. Oil would lubricate, so you wouldn't build up friction heat from metal to metal contact. Now, slightly smaller threads coated with paint . . .
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
When you said compression ignition while installing your damper, I envisioned you on the bolt with a breaker bar/torque wrench and turning the crank and having a piston fire off on the compression stroke - like an old Model T with a front crank starter!
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
That reminds me of a true story of an incident with the 6-71 Detroit in our former Continental Trailways Flixible VL100 Angola Coach motorhome conversion that happened at Lake Okobogi, IA July 4th weekend 1976. I'll have to tell you about it some time.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Well, that's a relief offa Mine mind. LOL I was laying in bed thinking about all that white residue, thinking maybe I should pull it all apart and check to make sure there is no visible damage.
Okay, now my curiosity is runnin rampant. LOL
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If anyone is thinking of changing out their harmonic balancer, I would advise getting Leroy Diesels balancer removal installer tool. Getting that front cranking shaft bolt torqued to 200 foot pounds without that would be quite a chore.
Even with the 1/2" breaker bar, a two foot cheater pipe on that then putting My foot onto the torque qrench is how I got the bolt to the 200 ft.lbs. as specified in the book. LOL
Even with the 1/2" breaker bar, a two foot cheater pipe on that then putting My foot onto the torque qrench is how I got the bolt to the 200 ft.lbs. as specified in the book. LOL
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Suburban was finally moved from CoPart in Phoenix to a friends property in SE AZ. CoPart towed it from Flagstaff to Phoenix in July but, wouldn't coordinate with the Tucson CoPart to move it from Phoenix to the property despite the insurance company stating they would foot the bill and the Phoenix CoPart people saying they would do the coordinating. !@#$%^&* Every time I called they would either change their story or go back on what they had previously said they would do. %^&U*I(O)P
Anyway, Ted (formerly 635 on here) will get the majority of the interior while I get the parts I want sans the motor (turbo, intake, water pump assy. IP, IP lines, injectors, etc. I do want to recover). The guy who drove up to get it and schlep it back gets the motor (short block).
Anyway, Ted (formerly 635 on here) will get the majority of the interior while I get the parts I want sans the motor (turbo, intake, water pump assy. IP, IP lines, injectors, etc. I do want to recover). The guy who drove up to get it and schlep it back gets the motor (short block).
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Seems a lot of nice components You have coming there.
Soaking the manifold bolts on the K3500, have the Diamond eye cross over to install. Started soaking the bolts yesterday. going to be squirting them down as the day advances onwards.
In the meantime, going to attempt removing the old exhaust system and making room for the new 4" unit.
I was going to take it to the muffler shop and have them do it, but, if they busted off a manifold bolt, I dont know how that`d work out, if they even have the tooling to get one removed. Besides, I know it would be over 150 bucks to have them do the work, I can take My time and get it done for free, then, have a little more fun tickets to spend else where, LOL
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
CRAP, BROKE A BOLT OFF ON THE LEFT SIDE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE. 
Big T
Well-Known Member
Thougth you weren't going to mess with the wreck?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
On mine when I drilled and tapped for a new bolt it was like it had never had a bolt in it before. I cut the flange off the old crossover to use as a guide for drilling.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
That's a good idea.
I`m usually pretty good about getting the hole started to real close to center of the broken bolt, which it is in this case, but, I got off on the angle so the top side of the hole is against the threads of the manifold and the opposite side is way off.
Welp, I been trying to carve it out but that aint working so, Now, I`ll get out the other carving device and blow it out.
The biggest secret to blowing a broke bolt out of an exhaust manifold is to have a hole drilled completely through the broken bolt, someplace for the slag and heat to escape.
Early on, in My younger years I tried blowing a broken bolt out of a SBC exhaust manifold and pretty much destroyed the flange.
An old timer welder friend that I told about what had happened told Me about drilling through the bolt. I had another manifold off of an old ford that had a broke bolt. I took that over and he demonstrated, after I drilled the hole, He took the torch and blew out that bolt slick and clean. touched up the thread with a thread chaser and good as new.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Just be careful not to start a fire. LoL
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
No fire started but, the portion of the bolt is still in there. I had the torch fired up but just could not get it into a position where I felt it was going to blow out the bolt without creating damage else where.
Maneeefold is coming off, I hope without breaking any more bolts.
Maneeefold is coming off, I hope without breaking any more bolts.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Wasn't, no more than I had too anyway. I had to mess with CoPart or face fines for not getting it moved as it is my property on their property. Already covered CoPart's backtracking and half-truths. So, beyond getting it moved off CoPart's lot and recovering what was a long list of parts... Done.
As it turns out, 635's buddy says he thinks he can fix it by straightening the frame and is willing to buy it. I'm sure some JB Weld will take care of everything to include the front differential.
He's got tools, land, time and only about 30 other cars sitting in various states of desert patina...what's one more? Between a back hoe, 10K fork lift and some chains, I'm sure he can get the frame to move. What's the worse that could happen?
He had to stop twice on the way home to change tires because he runs them down to nothing. A former tire shop owner, he's got a lot. 635 said he brought 10 spares with him for the 300 mile round trip. The spares I saw in the pictures reminded me of the line in 'Christmas Story' where the kid says, "My dad's spares were only tires in the sense that they were round and once made out of rubber.'
Anyway, fine, sold, I don't want to $%^&* with it. Take the money and sign over the title. But, he doesn't get the turbo, air cleaner (1st Gen Heath unit), upper and lower intakes (powdercoated and extruded) nor the aluminum skid plate and PMD cooler. MINE!
635 still gets the seats (he has bench seats which his buddy will take), center console, along with the wheels and tires and whatever else his friend will let him have. Rapidly becoming not my problem.
Not recovered by me now will be the water pump with fan clutch and fan, fluid dampner, the new oil cooler assy (which I wasn't planning to recover anyway) along with the other new stuff like headlights, taillights, turn signal lights, stereo and a host of other little things.
It was fun while it lasted. RIP TULKAS
Attachments
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Appears that the engine needs to be lifted to get that Diamond Eye down pipe into the hole, the one from the turbo back. Crap.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
or remove turbo. I don"t recall having to do either
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I never thought it`d be this complicated.
I told the welder friend this morning, I guess I just need to stop doing a lot of this repair type stuff. It seems I get started then before the job is done, get totally frustrated. Being with this RA dont help too.
Headed out to take another stab at it. LOL
I thought I`d place the pipe into position then, mark where the bung for the EG sensor needs to be drilled/welded in and be done with that mush, I mean much. LOL
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I drilled the manifold just under the turbo for mine. Have you removed the inner fender? Might make everything alot easier to get to
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
YUP, got te pipe shoved part way through between the frame and the exhaust manifold, then, only to have it run against an exhaust manifold bolt with a stud lug hanging out from it.