dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
When I pulled to top off the IP on the 93 I found that part of one of the solenoids was removed. here is a couple pics on the one from the engine I have and the one that was on the 93.
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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Thank you! Idk what I would do without you guys. I was trying to use the wrong solenoid connection. funny thing was the rear most connection when I applied voltage I could plainly see something move looking directly down into the return line barb on the IP. I assumed that was the one. NOPE! the one that's more towards the front of the IP had a larger spade connection on it so after seeing your post I used a stripped piece of wire and stuck on the tiny hole in the spade to the wire for it since the spade that was there wouldn't fit. tried cranking once more and she fired right up!
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Got the truck all buttoned up, then took it out on the road. had to go pick up my son from his friends house. Now that the factory shutoff solenoid is working, the truck immediately shuts off with the key. No more "dieseling" I even connected the other solenoid and the fast idle one on the linkage that was running to the coolant sensor on the crossover. on startup the engine was cold and it's about 42 degrees outside. that pat kicked in but not until I touched the throttle. I guess that little solenoid on the linkage needs some help to push. That part turned off in about 3 minutes after starting.
I wasn't planning on opening up the intake today but it warmed up and the sun came out so I went for it LOL. before I got into that I had been working in the cab trying to re-locate the boost gauge. I ended up pulling the overhead console and removing the rounded face that just snaps in there. wittled down a piece of old scrap pallet wood to fit in the hole, then cut the hole out for the gauge. The PO had ran more of that same 1/4" clear tubing that was used on the fuel pressure gauge for the boost gauge. I pulled all that out and ran some 1/8" tubing though the firewall, up the drivers front pillar and over to the console along with a power wire for the gauge light. when I got all that buttoned up and started to connect it under the hood is when I decided to open up the intake and do the shutoff solenoid.
Here is a photo of the results on the console. I still have room for one more gauge. the gauge trio the PO installed has a trans temp gauge but the probe won't reach to that area. I'm thinking about removing the cubby where the factory radio goes and mounting it there.
I wasn't planning on opening up the intake today but it warmed up and the sun came out so I went for it LOL. before I got into that I had been working in the cab trying to re-locate the boost gauge. I ended up pulling the overhead console and removing the rounded face that just snaps in there. wittled down a piece of old scrap pallet wood to fit in the hole, then cut the hole out for the gauge. The PO had ran more of that same 1/4" clear tubing that was used on the fuel pressure gauge for the boost gauge. I pulled all that out and ran some 1/8" tubing though the firewall, up the drivers front pillar and over to the console along with a power wire for the gauge light. when I got all that buttoned up and started to connect it under the hood is when I decided to open up the intake and do the shutoff solenoid.
Here is a photo of the results on the console. I still have room for one more gauge. the gauge trio the PO installed has a trans temp gauge but the probe won't reach to that area. I'm thinking about removing the cubby where the factory radio goes and mounting it there.
72fj40
92 6.5td C2500
On my 92 during cold start with the wait light on, I depress the the gas pedal prior to starting to engage the fast idle solenoid, it also advances the timing until the coolant temp reaches to about 70*.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Just out of curiosity since I'm a noob to the db2's. I like how my 95 (electronic) has the high idle switch for fast warm up and when I'm running the AC sitting still. is there any such thing for the db2's? I can see the idle solenoid is not strong enough to kick up the idle with out a little help touching the pedal.
Once the weather warms up and after I get a oil catch can installed, I want to address the loud rattleness on the 93. my 95 is much quieter, this 93 is as loud as or louder than a Cummins going down the road that's cold!
on a side note: my 95 has not liked being parked for the last two weeks! I took it out yesterday to make a quick trip into town, the front suspension and steering was making a helliacous clanking and squalling which it was not doing before I let it sit since I got the 93 on the road.
when I got back home I grabbed the front brush guard and shook the front end up and down only to hear the passenger side ball joints squalling and creaking! Dam I just replaced all that stuff during the covid lock-downs we had. Leave it to piss poor quality parts! I think when covid hit all the quality went out the window!
Once the weather warms up and after I get a oil catch can installed, I want to address the loud rattleness on the 93. my 95 is much quieter, this 93 is as loud as or louder than a Cummins going down the road that's cold!
on a side note: my 95 has not liked being parked for the last two weeks! I took it out yesterday to make a quick trip into town, the front suspension and steering was making a helliacous clanking and squalling which it was not doing before I let it sit since I got the 93 on the road.
when I got back home I grabbed the front brush guard and shook the front end up and down only to hear the passenger side ball joints squalling and creaking! Dam I just replaced all that stuff during the covid lock-downs we had. Leave it to piss poor quality parts! I think when covid hit all the quality went out the window!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The db2 procedure is, As you get in the rig- press the pedal all the way to the floor then remove your foot from the pedal before cranking engine.
I do this while putting the key into the ignition.
The high idle solenoid should hold it there. It is possible the solenoid could move but be worn out and not hold proper position, but that is really rare.
The shaft is a screw that can be adjusted for proper rpm.
That rattle is probably just timing. So long as you adjust timing with the engine off- you can’t hurt it. Just play with it. Db2 is WAY more forgiving about being out of time.
Maybe try a different grease on the joints?
I do this while putting the key into the ignition.
The high idle solenoid should hold it there. It is possible the solenoid could move but be worn out and not hold proper position, but that is really rare.
The shaft is a screw that can be adjusted for proper rpm.
That rattle is probably just timing. So long as you adjust timing with the engine off- you can’t hurt it. Just play with it. Db2 is WAY more forgiving about being out of time.
Maybe try a different grease on the joints?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Which way should I move the IP? I had already bumped it toward the passenger side since before when at idle pressing the advance lever it had just got quieter. now idling if I press the lever it gets quieter plus goes into a rough idle with a little smoke out the tail pipe.
Edit: it will also roll some coal in acceleration unlike my 95. but has more power than the 95 too. I think the fuel screw has been messed with.
Edit: it will also roll some coal in acceleration unlike my 95. but has more power than the 95 too. I think the fuel screw has been messed with.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Correct me if I am wrong but from what I am reading online, rotating the IP top towards the drivers fender would be advance, top towards the passenger side would be retard?
I found this quote from another forum....
I need to start the truck and look at the belt and crank rotation but this is what I am understanding. if so, when I bumped the IP before, I was retarding it.
I found this quote from another forum....
I need to start the truck and look at the belt and crank rotation but this is what I am understanding. if so, when I bumped the IP before, I was retarding it.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Thought about replacing spark plugs in the 2014 4Runner today, but it's colder than expected, so F it. I can wait a week or so and I can do it down in warm SoCal. I guess I have an attitude problem?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I posted to update the learning to set timing on the DB2. as well as the one on how to replace the fuel shutoff solenoid threads.
Big T
Well-Known Member
This will be a rant. Love our Toyota 4Runners, but their wire harnesses are weak sauce. Changed the spark plugs on the 2014 at 349K miles today. To do this you have to pull the secondary air valves (emissions) on each side of the V6. The driver’s side harness plug has previously been problematic with a wire pulling out the back. I repaired that, but today the remaining 4 wires pulled out the back of the 5-pin plug. I’ve ordered a new pig tail plug off Amazon, and I got the proper wiring order off the 2023 4Runner. Should have the replacement pigtail plug by Thursday or Friday. Would take ~30 minutes to install. Worst case, we drive the 2023 to SoCal.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Boy I really need to get the oil catch can! I'm waiting for a paycheck or two to have the extra funds, but I checked the oil on the 93 this evening and it seems to have consumed another quart in just 100 miles! I started at 284445 when I did the oil change using Mobil synthetic 15-40 same oil I use in my 95. it now had 284740 on it and has used 2 quarts! It's not leaking it that I can tell, not leaving any drips in the driveway over night. so I can only assume it's sucking it through the turbo.
Are there any problems with running a hose from the CDR down under the truck open to the atmosphere for a while?
Are there any problems with running a hose from the CDR down under the truck open to the atmosphere for a while?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I did that on my 96 but it didn't really change oil consumption
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Have you checked the turbo seals?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
if it's sucking that much, how much would get me in to danger territory of a run-a-way situation
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
No, not sure how to do that?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
the thought of it running away is what is scary. the engine does have blowby and with the pipe to the turbo tubing pulled out it's blowing crankcase gasses pretty good, if I put my finger over it for a second, pressure builds enough to make it start coming out of the oil cap past it's gasket.
the engine does have good power so I'm assuming the oil is coming from all the blowby.
the engine does have good power so I'm assuming the oil is coming from all the blowby.
dieselolds
Well-Known Member
Last evening I made an attempt to get the door back together but got into another issue.The old steel guide track decided to let go from the bottom of the glass once I had everything together,so yet again the door needs to be taken apart to get the glass out.I found a replacement piece on Amazon for $58 and I have some 3m urethane sealer to bond the new track to the glass.
Attachments
dieselolds
Well-Known Member
Today I spent some time installing the 01 duramax diesel fan blade with 98 hayden fan clutch on my 96 gmc with the 6.2.All went well overall.The duramax unit seems like it’ll do a better job of cooling over the previous 96 fan blade.
I bought both items new from rockauto.
I bought both items new from rockauto.