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Water pump leak

Just noticed after backing the truck up to the garage that it did not leak much at all over night and it was pointed slightly uphill. When facing the garage pointed slightly downhill, it would lose at least 1/2 gallon overnight.
 
Trying to remember this job. Do I need to remove the front Pulley to pull the timing cover? If so, do I need a pulley puller? Just trying to make sure I have the right tools come up with my wife.

Do I need to remove just the upper timing gear or both to get the chain on?

Truck has never overheated on local trips this week, though I do smell the coolant.

What sealant should I use on timing cover and water pump?

The idler pulley as it has some worn rubber on it, though the belt itself looks good and I replaced it a couple thousand miles ago. It is very tight and within the marks for the pulley.

I have so many things on my plate with construction going on at Stevensville, Montana home and starting a kitchen remodel at Fullerton, CA home. All I needed was another project.
Fortunately the GC on the Montana home is good. If I don’t like something, I tell him and it gets corrected.
 
You have to remove the belt pulley and harmonic balancer to get the front cover off. I used a Harmonic balancer puller to remove both if I remember right.

i ain't never did a chain on a 6.x so can’t answer the timing gear question.

I’m pretty sure I used gaskets on my timing cover but I think a lot of people use Permatex Ultra Black with good results.




I remember telling myself that the next time I do a water pump on my truck I’m pulling the radiator out for extra room and comfort.
 
When you take apart the timing chain set up line up the timing chain and gear dots first. Then unbolt the gear that drives the IP gear. Everything should line back up then
 
You have to remove the belt pulley and HB to get the timing cover off. There are lots of "gotcha" bolts. Look at the manual to know where to expect the timing cover bolts. Two behind the IP gear to the block I recall. The hardest are the little ones in the oil pan. The biggest leak chance is the corners of the oil pan, block, and timing cover. GM bolted every damn thing they could to the water pump on this engine. But once it's off it's really not far to the chain.

The bypass hose to the T-Stat is almost easier to pull the crossover off to fit that hose on...

You need the HB puller. The lower timing sprocket may be stubborn. The cam and crank sprocket come off at the same time. A new chain will be tight - normal.

The Right Stuff with gaskets should work. I have used high temp RTV. Note the timing cover is a mess to seal up with the water pump outlets going through it. I have used the gaskets with RTV on both sides of the gaskets.
 
WarWagon said:
You have to remove the belt pulley and HB to get the timing cover off. There are lots of "gotcha" bolts. Look at the manual to know where to expect the timing cover bolts. Two behind the IP gear to the block I recall. The hardest are the little ones in the oil pan. The biggest leak chance is the corners of the oil pan, block, and timing cover. GM bolted every damn thing they could to the water pump on this engine. But once it's off it's really not far to the chain.

The bypass hose to the T-Stat is almost easier to pull the crossover off to fit that hose on...

You need the HB puller. The lower timing sprocket may be stubborn. The cam and crank sprocket come off at the same time. A new chain will be tight - normal.

The Right Stuff with gaskets should work. I have used high temp RTV. Note the timing cover is a mess to seal up with the water pump outlets going through it. I have used the gaskets with RTV on both sides of the gaskets.
Click to expand...

Which means not only puller, but also the big torque wrench with floor jack handle over it to break the crankshaft bolt free. Also something to lock the crank like one of the pulley bolts through a demo bar jammed into the frame crossmember. My body aches just thinking of this.
 
Big T said:
Which means not only puller, but also the big torque wrench with floor jack handle over it to break the crankshaft bolt free. Also something to lock the crank like one of the pulley bolts through a demo bar jammed into the frame crossmember. My body aches just thinking of this.
Click to expand...
Good time to really clean the cooling stack too back to front w/high pressure air...
 
WarWagon said:
:stop: Power tool rule. Compressed air and a rattle gun or maybe big electric rattle gun. Rent a compressor if you have too.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to an impact wrench? What size is the bolt on the crank? Trying to have my wife/son provision all the requisite tools at my Fullerton home.
 
The crank bolt is torqued to 200 ft lbs. or somewhere close to that.

It was all my little 160 lbs as& could do to break it free and torque it back down. I was pulling my whole body off the ground to torque it back down.
 
Jaryd said:
The crank bolt is torqued to 200 ft lbs. or somewhere close to that.

It was all my little 160 lbs as& could do to break it free and torque it back down. I was pulling my whole body off the ground to torque it back down.
Click to expand...

Really need the size of the socket for the crank bolt? Is it 36mm?

I used a 5' long floor jack handle over a 1/2" breaker bar. Guessed on the torque based on what it took to break it free. It's worked for 10 years.
 
Big T said:
Really need the size of the socket for the crank bolt? Is it 36mm?

I used a 5' long floor jack handle over a 1/2" breaker bar. Guessed on the torque based on what it took to break it free. It's worked for 10 years.
Click to expand...
That's what is nice about the HB puller/installer kit from Leroy Diesel. It has this nice tool for holding the cranking shaft from turning while loosening and torqueing down the front bolt.
 
Alright, this is baffling me. The leak has now stopped. No longer leaking while running, nor is it leaking while parked, regardless of being parked uphill or downhill.

The water pump and gaskets have arrived, but still waiting for the timing chain.
 
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