• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

TTS Newbie & 1st Diesel

Yours being a 3500 probably wouldn’t have egr unless it was a California truck.

Take time to fill out your signature with all your rides so other people can see what your working on
 
EGR is on top of the intake dead center in plain sight if equipped. YouTube videos and link them here.

Finish the glow plugs system check out and repair first so it can start without hours on the genset powered block heater.
 
Are there any complaints on the glow plugs from SSDIESEL? They do appear to glow hotter than standard plugs (at least by their pics) and they say they won’t swell.
 
OMG!! So glad you asked before buying.

STAY AWAY!!
They do swell. They swell and break off easier than the regular ones. I sent them the piston with their glowplug stabbed into it to prove it to them. Yes it destroyed the head and the block too. And they denyed it so much they wouldn’t even do a refund on the glowplugs.

Buy only AC Delco 60g or Bosch 80034 (there is a longer number with them too, but that is the one I remember and ordered them by. Both of these plugs are the only self regulating plugs available. Self regulation is the only way they stop from swelling- which when it sweels to much is how they break off.

Leroy sells the plugs, and a small solenoid that attaches to the controller. You just run a single wire to it from a button or switch you control for when it is way cold and needs a second cycle, yes you will loose an extra 5-7 seconds more on the coldest days when doing second cycle. Added up over 300,000 miles of starts you are WAY ahead of replacing an engine for it.

Something that folks in colder areas really should focus on is the powermaster starter. It cranks the engine so much faster than the regular one, and crank speed is huge.

Please NEVER use starting fluid. Outside the obvious blow the idi diesel apart problem, the fluid as it burns actually has a chemical process with the metal of the glowplug and form crystals on the plug, causing them to fail much sooner. Sometimes first use.
 
Best to stick with Bosch or AC Delco.

The ones from SS are great for about a year and are are known for working great in trucks where the computer *disables the alternator* when the GP's are hot.

There is a known issue with the SS GP's in GMT400's (your) truck as alternator applies 14+ volts after the motor starts and *does not* disable the alternator when the GP's are hot. So, in a year they will start to fry as those GP's cannot handle the extra voltage.

Put another way: Been there. Done that. And moved over to Bosch.
 
Ray2377 said:
Are there any complaints on the glow plugs from SSDIESEL? They do appear to glow hotter than standard plugs (at least by their pics) and they say they won’t swell.
Click to expand...

Plenty of complaints! Of course you ask for warranty and you will be told "It's your fault." And it is for dealing with SSDiesel.

Put the glow plugs in a vise and hit them with the dual 12v batteries. I have watched quick heat plugs swell up while the 60G and Bosh Duraterms just glow till the batts die.

@Will L. Isn't kidding when he says " Buy either AC Delco 60 G or Bosch 80034. Nothing else, period." Rock Auto carries them.

I used both 60G and Duraterms with a manual Glow Plug override switch. No problems.

The only way I killed 60G's was using ether, starting fluid, on an engine that had a hole in a piston. Engine was coming out anyway and saved me having to drag it on trailer with a come a long. There were only nubs of the plugs left. Again don't use starting fluid...
 
Great responses!!! I haven’t used any starting fluid. Is running the “Wait to start” a couple of times before trying to start the same as manually triggering the glow plug relay for extra time?
 
Yes but how long can vary based on year of truck and program if applicable. You dont have your signature filed out, so that it depends. The old 6.2 design will do 100% cycles every time. The early 6.5 will do cycle time based only on coolant temp. The later 6.5 will be cut back by a rew things.

If you have a ds4, you can have programming for all the normal improvements, and longer glow

Oh yeah, was going to mention- i had a head on a shelf and wanted to see how much better the instafails were than others before I learned the hard way.

So I measured heat using contact probes on the piston side of the precup. Yes the instaheats got it hot wuicker than the 60g I tested it against. But about 3/4 through the second cycle the 60g surpassed the heat of the ss destruction. And that was with the ss running non stop.

times iirc.
 
I hate to sound stupid, but I can’t figure out how to add my truck info. Under my profile it has my DOB & State. I have a 1997 Chevy K3500 flatbed with single rear wheels, just a farm truck.
 
Click on your avatar at the top of the screen and then at the bottom of the list you should see “signature”
 
I got the drivers side plugs out & they all lit up when tested. They were AC’s & I got 4 new ones to replace them, but I don’t think they were very old. I get 11.47 volts on 3 of the leads and 9 volts on the damaged lead. I am thinking of replacing the wiring harnesses.
 
9v on damaged lead is why I recommended testing before thowing parts at it one page 1. You will find that saves money.

Passinger side is hard to do. As my down pipe is welded on I am a bad example of missing 1 GP...

Need to test them for voltage. Odds are the mice ate more than 1 wire, but, testing will show this.

What number on the AC G plugs?
 
Keep in mind the “wires” that go from the controller to each glowplug is not regular wire. It is fuseable link.

Clean the connectios and inspect closely. Examine the one lead with dropped voltage for a small damaged area. The insulation might be ok, but you might feel a damaged inside.
If you find a spot, You might be able to cut out a section and splice it with crimp connector to bypass it.

Did you unplug them first, then get the voltage reading?

If you decide to buy a new harness, factory ones are available, and there is a really nice quality one on ebay for $150 by PT Wiring.
 
It was the PT wiring I was looking at. I tested the voltage with the connectors off. The bad wire has broken insulation all the way around with exposed wire. All off the connectors were somewhat corroded. The truck did start with a single application of the glow plugs without being plugged in at all, but it was 60 degrees outside and the truck was sitting in the sun all day. And of course, it started popping and blowing black smoke after idling a half hour. Gremlins!
 
Well, I finally got a look at the passenger side glow plugs, sort of. I could only see 3 and two of them had no wire connected. The other had a wire but it may not have been any good as I think the spade on the plug partially broke when I removed it. The furthest one to the rear of the truck is inaccessible because of the exhaust system. I sprayed PB on the 3 and only hope that I can get them out. If so, I am gonna cross my fingers that 7 good plugs will get her going in the cold. What a bitch of an area to work in even with the tire off.
 
Pretty sure the #6 plug is blocked by the exhaust not #8. Can you tell if it's the same as the other plugs? Going with self limiting plugs means you need to absolutely know what all 8 plugs are before you increase glow time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top