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TTS Newbie & 1st Diesel

Ray2377

New Member
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Location
Ohio
Ok, I fully charged the batteries and ran the heater block for 6 1/2 with my generator. Temps started at 19 degrees and warmed to about 42 after that 6 1/2 hours. Did not start on 1st cycle, but it almost hit. 2nd cycle it fired up & has settled out to a good idle. I am going to let it warm up good and then run it down the road. This should rule out air in the system and the lift pump right?
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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AZ
Put a hose on the water drain. Open it with the engine running. Stall means lift pump dead. Fuel coming out lift pump working.

Looks like block heater helped bad glows or low crank RPM.
 

Ray2377

New Member
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Location
Ohio
Update: I drove it 25 miles and ran it up to 80 mph, but couldn’t get it to make the exhaust popping. I need to get this starting problem fixed because plugging it in for hours is going to be cumbersome. I will try and check the glow plugs for power next weekend.
 

JayTheCPA

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Given the report that the truck was grumpy to start at 40* F and then seemed to run normally once it lit, I'd focus on the GP system.

On a semi-related note, avoid the temptation to energize the glow plugs while using a battery charger as not all GP's play well at the higher voltage level.

If you know somebody with an IR camera, a quick test to isloate which GP's are working is to use the camera after a few cycles. The ones that are working should show a small rise in temperature. Naturally, this presumes a completely cold engine bay and I would not pre-heat with the block heater. Goal here is to find which items in the GP system need attention (and not start the motor).


Aside, my take on the block heater is that something is not up to par. Reasoning is that I saw about a 30 - 40* F rise in temps after about 3 hours of heat time. So, perhaps the generator is not putting out or the heater element is due for replacement.


Mods: might consider breaking this thread at the appropriate point and moving it to the 6.5 section.
 

Ray2377

New Member
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Location
Ohio
I would say that my starter speed sounded comparable, but it’s hard to determine. I hope to check the glow plugs for power next time and maybe check the lift pump by opening that drain.
 

Ray2377

New Member
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Location
Ohio
Today I tried to start it after plugging in for 2 hours—40+ degrees and sitting in sunshine. It took 4 tries this time. I let it idle for 30 minutes and then gave it gas. It immediately started the popping and blowing lots of black smoke out the exhaust. It ran popping like this for two or three minutes and would not settle out at idle. It would accelerate ok, but start popping again when I let off the pedal. I finally shifted it into gear and when engaged it settled back to a regular idle. I slipped it to neutral and accelerated and the popping returned on deceleration, but settled out again when I shifted back to drive. It blew black smoke the entire time. Over fueling issues?
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Maybe a video of it popping?

Squirrel/rat/mouse ate wiring. Some reason it didn't eat the wires under the intake manifold, back of engine, etc?

I don't see where you finished the glow plug system repairs? It's possible the SOB's broke off and are sticking in a valve. Esp if you used ether and didn't disable them. Hint don't use ether (unless it's a life or death emergency the you are ok with writing off the complete diesel engine.)

Black smoke is NO AIR. Debris plugging the intake, rats nets in air filter (failed emissions once due to this), clogged snorkel in fender, and again exhaust. Come to think of it the crossover is known to delaminate and collapse internally. Wouldn't hurt to inspect the turbo to see if it spins and any sign of the wheel rubbing the housing.

Its possible the IP is going full fuel to speed the engine up due to a misfire slowing the engine down and this is your black smoke. Maybe the PMD is about to run away on you. Maybe the CPS wires are chewed off and the ECM is having weird RPM signals.
 

Ray2377

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Location
Ohio
I didn’t see any chewed wires. With the problem being so sporadic, it has me confused. Like I said before, I ran the dog piss out of it last week and it didn’t miss a lick. And I idled it about the same amount of time to warm up. I haven’t had time to mess with the glow plugs yet, but they can’t be causing this problem. Sometimes it will do it on the road after I have driven it for 1/2 hour or so, but sometimes at start up, and then not at all other times.
 

JayTheCPA

Well-Known Member
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All indicators are that the GP's are a problem, so that is one thing that needs to get fixed ;)

X-2 on getting a video on the popping sound which will make diagnosis from our side of the Internet a little easier . . .

Also, highly recommend getting software (like AutoEngenuity) or a CKO Tech II to see what is happening from the computer's perspective.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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The PDM as you called it: it's a PMD Pump Mounted Driver. PMD is a bad high current design that has the PMD going bad, but, like a zombie it tries to hang on with all kinds of trouble. It's on a heatsink, where? Does it have a extension harness? Do you have a spare PMD?

Under the hood in the EZ-Bake oven on a cheap Communist China extension cable is the worst case.

Tap the PMD and then wiggle it's harness to see if the condition stops or starts up. PMD's and extension cables are one part we do throw at 6.5's due to their codeless intermittent failures.
 

Ray2377

New Member
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Location
Ohio
I did take a video, but I get an “oops, error occurred “ when trying to put it on YouTube. A guy I work with watched it and wondered if the EGR valve was functioning right? I am not sure how to verify if it is working. I am looking for a problem that is intermittent and would think that a valve would fail completely.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
I did take a video, but I get an “oops, error occurred “ when trying to put it on YouTube. A guy I work with watched it and wondered if the EGR valve was functioning right? I am not sure how to verify if it is working. I am looking for a problem that is intermittent and would think that a valve would fail completely.
If the SOB EGR valves just dropped dead that would make life easy. No. They like to stick and then unstick randomly. Or go full open instead of proportional to exhaust back pressure. If in doubt I believe you can, on a cold engine, shove a finger into the bottom of the valve and force it full open with the engine running. See if it makes it act up in the same way. On gas engines the EGR is enabled just off idle and back pressure controls it. The 6.5 may be vacuum modulated meaning the solenoid by the turbo wastegate solenoid driver side back of engine may be bad or both EGR and solenoid bad. Of course check all vacuum lines and pump for proper operation and no cracks, leaks...

I do recommend GM Dealer if you replace the EGR valve as aftermarket ones make you select the orifice size from a box of 50 washers as 'one size doesn't fit anything'.

Most people on here fix the EGR with a vin F intake manifold if they don't have to pass emissions.
 

Ray2377

New Member
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16
Location
Ohio
Ok, I wondered if vacuum had anything to do with it. When I went to test the truck for purchase a year ago, it did the exhaust popping consistently when decelerating on the freeway. The guy found that the vac pump was bad, but had a used 6.5 that he pulled one off of and replaced it. It then ran for months without any issues. So, when it started again I immediately thought that the vac pump failed again, but it’s working and so is the waste gate solenoid. I am getting 20 in Hg at the waste gate.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Well throw parts at it to fix it... I would start a new thread on EGR under the 6.5 section because someone knows better than I how it works.
 

Ray2377

New Member
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Location
Ohio
I haven’t put any parts to it yet, so I am not sure where that came from. Plugged it in for 4 hours or last weekend and it was about 45 degrees. It started on third try and I let it idle for 15 minutes. It did not do the popping this time. I didn’t get to drive it, but it confirms the sporadic nature of the problem.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
EGR is throw parts at to fix... Intermittent failure so replace EGR valve and solonoid switch. Confirm it's the problem by manually opening EGR valve and seeing if engine runs the same with popping.
 

Ray2377

New Member
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16
Location
Ohio
I thought I sent an update the other day, but apparently not. I plugged it in for 4 hours and it fired the 1st try in mid 40 degrees. I saw one wire to a glow plug on drivers side is damaged but may still be working. I didn’t get to measure voltage due to it pouring rain. I let it it idle for 30 minutes or so then accelerated it, but no popping, again. I tried to find the egr valve/solenoid, but couldn’t find either. I have read that some of these engines don’t have egr’s?
 
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