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Thermostat Bypass Blocker?

So there is a post on the bottom of the tstat that extends down to block the bypass hole? It's always warm on phoenix, so I think I would rather restrict it by going to a smaller hose. A hose barb for a 3/8 ID hose has a passage of about .300", big enough to allow circulation and reduce pressure on the tstat when fully closed. I have been tapping and plugging the bypass hole in smallblock race engines for 30 years with no problems, but I also always drill a 1/16" hole in the tstat flange to purge air and allow some circulation when closed.

Heath Diesel does something like this for dual t-stat setups that factory don't have the bypass blocker on the T-stats.
For the single T-stat setups you could boil coolant in the heads before the t-stats opens, but, Heath Diesel already does this so YMMV. The bypass allows coolant to move and open the thermostat. Granted the heater core also does this on single stat systems at least, but, I block the heater core flow.
 
Has anyone here had any experience with Water Wetter.

The theory is to reduce the size of bubbles in the coolant and to keep more coolant in contact with the metal parts.

Any thoughts ????

I run it. I do not have results to post due to several changes done at once, but, I don't question it being effective. I also run "weak" antifreeze concentrations to like 12 above 0 F. You need 2 bottles for the diesel engine cooling system capacity. You need to replace it every so often - I forget the time frame. With green coolant I don't recall if the change/add interval is shorter or the same. It does not last as long as the orange coolant for sure.
 
I heard Missy talking about making sure the ram scoops in the bumper were intact, as they help with cooling. The one on the right side looks good, however the one on the left looks like there may be a piece missing in front of the oil cooler lines. Can someone confirm if there is a piece missing? If so, I'll fab something up to go there. Actually I'll probably do it anyway, as it should help direct the air toward the cooling stack, but it would be nice to know if something is missing. Here are a few pics. Thanks

Oh, I included a pic of the finished fan clutch with the tang secured in place.

Matt
 

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Might sound dumb, BUT! what is "Jet Dry" for your dish washer? Ive only had the thought in my head, but it seems like its function is to reduce surface tension so all the water runs off the dish. It also works in pretty high temps.

I also wondered how it would work if you added it to your car wash?

Can see the google searches flying now! :hihi:
 
Might sound dumb, BUT! what is "Jet Dry" for your dish washer? Ive only had the thought in my head, but it seems like its function is to reduce surface tension so all the water runs off the dish. It also works in pretty high temps.

I also wondered how it would work if you added it to your car wash?

Can see the google searches flying now! :hihi:

I gotta hand it to you Leroy, your definitely an "Outside The Box" thinker! Maybe a little to far outside the the box. :shocked::hihi:

Matt
 
Back in my younger days..one of my secondary jobs was mobile wash for a big outfit with 30 wash trucks. We used water that went 1st through a softener, then reverse osmosis. Never left water spots.
 
I picked up a factory GM 190 T-stat with the bypass blocker today, just to see how it affected the temps. I can't believe the difference! It lowered my temp during the heat of the day by 15-20 degrees! Not having the blocker was really messing up my cooling system. With the outside temp at 102, with the AC on, and my foot to the floor all the way to about 100 mph, the temp gauge never went any higher than you see it in the picture below (about 190-195). All this time I've been having to pay extra close attention to my temp gauge was because I had a t-stat without the blocker! I feel like an idiot! :rolleyes5:
I haven't pulled a load yet, but I will soon, and as soon as my new 9 blade fan comes, I'll get it installed. I'll probably install a 180 T-Stat with the blocker, in the near future, but I'm in no big hurry now, as its running much cooler.

Here are a few pics from different angles of the different T-stats. From Left To Right.
1. MotoRad 190 (came with the truck).
2. AC Delco 190 (the one I just installed).
3. High Flow 180 without the blocker. (the one some idiot (ME) installed after rebuilding the engine, and just removed)

Jay, in on of the pics below you can see my crossover, and directly below it, is the bypass hose. The blocker on the thermostat extends into there to restrict the flow, and keep the hot coolant going threw the radiator, rather than just being recirculated back threw the engine. This is something I just learned.

Here are the pics.

Matt
 

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If you compare the motorad 190 to the OEM 190, you will notice the springs for the bypass blocker are different. The OEM stat uses a 2 pound spring to hold the blocker down while the MOTORAD uses a 10 pound spring. The problem comes in that teh 6.5 closes off the blocker passage before the stat goes full open. So that extra spring tension prevents the stat from going full open. This is why it is SO important to run ONLY the OEM stat.
 
I think thats the 190 single crossover. Won't work with dual tstats.

EDIT: just looked at link above, thats for a single. Dual looks more like OP stat on right in pic above.
 
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