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Stall - No Start

Will L. said:
Yeah, you need to get a flywheel turner or prybar to use as a flywheel turner and check that the engine can be rotated.
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When I had a TC bolt losen I was able to grab the Flywheel with a rag and turn it. I'll give that a shot first then try a pry bar or flywheel turner.
 
Rodd said:
I just checked the batteries and they were both at 25% and 35%. I'm thinking alternator now. I will have the batteries tested tomorrow at autozone after I charge them. I would have noticed for sure if I were driving when it happened. My teenage son was driving with his brother and friends not paying attention to the lights or gauges when they were driving. When I got to them last night all the lights were bright so I didn't think it was the batteries or alternator. I'll see tomorrow.
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Need to teach son what to look for on gauges. This is common by OEM's putting in idiot light gauges on stuff that doesn't move or displays fiction. The gauges may not have shown anything as the alternator could have hidden it. The 80's had horrible gauge locations that I didn't look at when a block heater fell out - cracked a head.

@Will L. has a real point. Tight corroded connections are useless. One has to take them apart to make sure they are clean.

You testing the top posts of the batteries while using the weaker side posts? I have burned side posts to (high resistance) lower voltage and clean open on batteries. Yet the top posts tested fine on the said batteries.

Bad rash of starters out there that go "thunk" and a Communist China solenoid won't spin the engine. You have to measure voltage at the battery cable to starter and the ign switch wire. I recall it's 9v on ign switch and 11v at starter minimum. To check if engine locked up: Use the alternator bolt to rotate the engine backwards (1995 older) or normal (newer) depending on where the tensioner is in the system.


Solution to the bad parts rebuilt garbage is a USA made Powermaster 9052.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/the-powermaster-9052-starter-for-6-2-and-6-5.26396/
 
On the power master starters btw, I spoke to them about how tight the positive post is. They have redesigned it for better clearance. He said not sure how many that could use a trim are out there in stock on store shelves, but all new ones are good. Just something that didn't have a clearance spec on it in their records so it got missed.
They wont affect warranty if you trim it, or of coarse you can send one back in at their expense to have corrected.
 
Well I finally had a minute to see if I could get the flywheel to move and unfortunately it is stuck. won't move either direction. I'd love to get one of the 2 that Leroy has but I think I'm going to have to settle for one of the used ones from Ted's.
 
Take of the serpintine belt and try again. I have seen locked up accesories hang up enough to cause it.

What did you use to try turning it?

I have a rule about condemning an engine before seeing what is locked up, here it is: DON’T.

A locked up trans could do it to. You’re going to have to find the issue to know you are fixing it.

I seen a faulty fan clutch cause over heating, a new radiator went in first, but guy didn’t remove one of the plugs. Then when I looked at it I saw old fan clutch and had him swap it, then on test idle noticed no flow and told him to remove t stat and see ehat happens. I went on service call that finished my day and the next two I was off. I came back to him coming back from the office where they decided to just sell the truck for $1,000. 2 year old rig with about 80,000 miles on it. I looked into it out of interest after work, found the problem but owner of company was related to mechanic working on it and said- sell it anyways. I bought and flipped it for a fast $8k in 1 day. Good paycheck for me that week. Anyways just one example of people condemning too soon.
 
Will L. said:
Take of the serpintine belt and try again. I have seen locked up accesories hang up enough to cause it.

What did you use to try turning it?

I have a rule about condemning an engine before seeing what is locked up, here it is: DON’T.

A locked up trans could do it to. You’re going to have to find the issue to know you are fixing it.

I seen a faulty fan clutch cause over heating, a new radiator went in first, but guy didn’t remove one of the plugs. Then when I looked at it I saw old fan clutch and had him swap it, then on test idle noticed no flow and told him to remove t stat and see ehat happens. I went on service call that finished my day and the next two I was off. I came back to him coming back from the office where they decided to just sell the truck for $1,000. 2 year old rig with about 80,000 miles on it. I looked into it out of interest after work, found the problem but owner of company was related to mechanic working on it and said- sell it anyways. I bought and flipped it for a fast $8k in 1 day. Good paycheck for me that week. Anyways just one example of people condemning too soon.
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I did disconnect the belt and then tried to turn the flywheel with a prybar. I wedged it between the flywheel and TC and used one the the bolt areas where the 2 are connected to get some leverage. Wont budge either direction.
 
Paveltolz said:
Could it be hydro locked? Pull glow plugs and see if it will turn over and, if so, what's coming out. It won't necessarily be good news if it does but, at least you'll know what the issue is and can then decide to either fix it or replace the motor.
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Trying to start it caused the old starter to go out and now the new one fell to the same demise.
 
Other bad news if it's locked up it really doesn't matter what's wrong because the engine is coming out as scrap metal. What way can an engine lock up and not damage anything that needs to be pulled to fix? Yeah... The scrap metal part is determined after it's out.

So before the engine is pulled make sure it's not simple. Pull all glow plugs as suggested because maybe, just maybe, its a head gasket or cracked head hydrolocked and didn't bend a rod. Then its an in frame head job. What's the coolant level and is there engine or trans oil floating on top of it?

Whats the trans oil look like as the trans can lock it up. Can you move the front of the crankshaft aka broke crankshaft?

I would pull the oil filter and cut it open. Bunch of metal can indicate a spun bearing or coolant would be a clue.
 
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Will L. said:
Wait-
You Skipped the step from our Utah friend. Pull all 8 glowmplugs and try turning over to see if hydro locked.
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I'm not opposed to taking out the glow plugs but wouldn't the flywheel turn if I with a prybar? I torqued on it both ways and it wouldn't budge. I just checked the oil and it is good. I also checked the trans fluid and it is clean. The trans was rebuilt in November and has less than 5000 miles on it. It could have failed I guess. Is there anyway to unscrew the TC/FW bolts to confirm one or the other without being able to turn the TC/FW?
 
Imo pulling the plugs before the engine is worth the effort.

No. You won’t be able to get all the bolt that hold the flexplate to the converter.

If she is locked, your pulling an assembly not just engine. Some people pull engine with tc attached and bring an engine straight forward 6-7” and slide tc off trans input shaft. To risky to me to F up the trans. I pull trans with it in that situation.
 
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