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The Powermaster 9052 starter for 6.2 and 6.5

WarWagon

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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As the hard start and air issue caused the demise under the no questions asked Jegs warranty of my 1st Powermaster I had the opportunity to compare cranking RPM between starters. (The starter would spin without turning the engine.) The Powermaster liked to spin at 180 cold. It would take a rotation or two to get there, but, long enough to get the 130 RPM reading. So you could call it 180 RPM. The other starter is a rebuilt gear reduction factory starter. Using 1 optima and 1 flooded cell battery. New battery cables for both positive and negative. (Yes, the other optima was crushed awhile ago from an elk.)

Test was from the factory starter verifying cranking speed for troubleshooting hard starting. When my replacement starter arrived and was installed I took another set of readings for grins. Mainly because the front skid plate was off for front end work. After all you can hear the engine spin faster than the factory starter. No hot reading yet due to other work needing to be ‘finished’ ASAP. Pink injection pump wire, a DB2 ease of use feature for this test, removed for extended cranking allowing final steady RPM tests. Readings were taken 3 times each.

I used an optical tach hand tool on the crank to test the following Vs. the standard gear starter on my 93 6.5:

Cold engine 120 RPM factory starter. (Steady state RPM 5 rotations or more.)
Cold 130-180 RPM Powermaster. (180 was the final steady number. 130 was the lowest reading I could get during the first 2 rotations.)

Hot engine 180 RPM factory.
Powermaster hot: Untested as of this post date.
 
Both actually. Jegs acted as an agent for Powermaster.

Powermaster, 1 year street use warranty.
Jegs on my phoned in request covered shipping to Jegs and sent me a replacement starter. So no out of pocket expense to me other than changing out the starter. Case in point of a good mail order outfit and how issues should be handled.

The downside could be the 6.2/6.5's rep for eating starters makes 1 year look like a short warranty. Also being mail order and not readily available locally I had to use my spare starter. Sadly I have 2 spares sitting on the garage floor - a sign of a 6.X addiction.
In my case I need to find and fix starting issues faster. The saga of doing so for this issue is a long one though.

The upside of faster RPM cranking could start you faster while the glows are still hot. Thus, less starter wear, battery drain, and heat from long cranking.
 
Truck on in and ask.
Many times if you call you will be told NO.
But sometimes if you are on site and catch somebody in a good mood they will cut a local person a deal. Good public relations.
Or you could follow them to a bar, buy them some beers and ask them.
 
Update: 35,000 Miles of city engine stop and start and almost 2 years later this Powermaster 9052 still going strong! This replacement did have to live through finding the hard start issue of bad injectors.

I am not impressed with any 6.2/6.5 starter as they were troublesome in 1989 and rebuilt units still are like a bowl of bad cherries. You may or may not get a good one to bolt on. This includes local rebuilt units as even they had issues - 2 in a row that went thunk and did not turn the engine 1 of 4 times. (factory 1989 unit in 1992 spit a chunk of the commutator out that tore the brushes up, it's replacement would hang in and freewheel spin till the batteries were pulled and I forget other starter issues combined with bad glowplugs and air in lines from filter box other than I hated to change the starter. Recent starters had the brush plate short on a local Tuscon rebuild, phoenix local rebuild 2 bad units that would pull in and not spin, starter drive with broken overrun clutch from sticking injectors hammering the clutch noted above, melted brush wires (my bad) from starting an engine with a hole in a piston, and one slow spinning one from GASP! worn out brushes - the factory one on the 1995 burb. Only one starter made it to the expected lifetime of the brushes.
 
I was going to buy the powermaster, but I didn't want to spend the $300+ that Jegs and Summit wanted, so I decided to try a Bosch starter from a supplier of mine. It is a brand new starter, not a rebuilt, and when I got it, it said on the box more torque than stock starter plus a 12 month roadside service for free, and a 12 month warranty. I have had it for about 3 months now with no problems, and it does turn the engine over way faster than my stock starter did, warm or cold. It was $180 for the brand new Bosch, so we'll see how long it works. But so far I'm happy with it. Hope this powermaster works out for you.
 
WarWagon said:
Update: 35,000 Miles of city engine stop and start and almost 2 years later this Powermaster 9052 still going strong! This replacement did have to live through finding the hard start issue of bad injectors.

I am not impressed with any 6.2/6.5 starter as they were troublesome in 1989 and rebuilt units still are like a bowl of bad cherries. You may or may not get a good one to bolt on. This includes local rebuilt units as even they had issues - 2 in a row that went thunk and did not turn the engine 1 of 4 times. (factory 1989 unit in 1992 spit a chunk of the commutator out that tore the brushes up, it's replacement would hang in and freewheel spin till the batteries were pulled and I forget other starter issues combined with bad glowplugs and air in lines from filter box other than I hated to change the starter. Recent starters had the brush plate short on a local Tuscon rebuild, phoenix local rebuild 2 bad units that would pull in and not spin, starter drive with broken overrun clutch from sticking injectors hammering the clutch noted above, melted brush wires (my bad) from starting an engine with a hole in a piston, and one slow spinning one from GASP! worn out brushes - the factory one on the 1995 burb. Only one starter made it to the expected lifetime of the brushes.
Click to expand...

Good info, too. I'm still leaning the way of the starter on mine. It just seems lazy at startup recently and it almost acts as if it isn't getting full fuel at first, as well. I think I might have a combination of issues to deal with. The Powermaster videos I've seen of a 6.5 starting, though, is incredible and it wakes up like it WANTs to run.
 
1999gmc said:
I was going to buy the powermaster, but I didn't want to spend the $300+ that Jegs and Summit wanted, so I decided to try a Bosch starter from a supplier of mine. It is a brand new starter, not a rebuilt, and when I got it, it said on the box more torque than stock starter plus a 12 month roadside service for free, and a 12 month warranty. I have had it for about 3 months now with no problems, and it does turn the engine over way faster than my stock starter did, warm or cold. It was $180 for the brand new Bosch, so we'll see how long it works. But so far I'm happy with it. Hope this powermaster works out for you.
Click to expand...

so is your Bosch still going strong?
 
1999gmc said:
I was going to buy the powermaster, but I didn't want to spend the $300+ that Jegs and Summit wanted, so I decided to try a Bosch starter from a supplier of mine. It is a brand new starter, not a rebuilt, and when I got it, it said on the box more torque than stock starter plus a 12 month roadside service for free, and a 12 month warranty. I have had it for about 3 months now with no problems, and it does turn the engine over way faster than my stock starter did, warm or cold. It was $180 for the brand new Bosch, so we'll see how long it works. But so far I'm happy with it. Hope this powermaster works out for you.
Click to expand...

Where did you get this Bosch and where was it made?

I also keep 2 rebuilts on hand. Used to be 3 til we had the 98 Suburban starter fiasco. Broke 2 housings installing a starter. Never had an issue installing a starter before or since. Never heard of anybody ever cracking the housing while torquing the bolts. I still do not have a clue what went on there
 
If it cracked between the bolt holes, it is usually a tiny pebble gets on there. When you tighten it down the little uneven surfaces causes the aluminum to try to flex and ka-snap goes the housing (and usually temper too). Not that I ever made that mistake but uhh dont ask how i can answer that.
 
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