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Savanna Camper Project

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Made your pics full size again. Select that option when you attach them.
And BTW, that's a mighty nice lookin scooter!
 
Looks like I'm going with Leroy Diesel for a new LP and harness, (unless someone can help me with a diy harness/relay).
I'm replacing all the stock plastic fuel lines since they are too short. I need suggestions on what type line, IE
SS or nylon or aluminum or rubber lines. Also correct sizes??? There is a stock, (I think), filter with water separator mounted under the cab.
Just change filter or should I replace anything else??? Once I finish fuel system frame stuff down under, and the clear U shape tube up top, I'll tackle the emer brake cable hookup and sock removal. That should button up fuel system rebuild unless someone can think of anything else. Then on to wiring harness swap.
 
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Get the stock injectors from Leroy. Without doing a ton of hot rodding to an engine, marine injectors simply are not needed. Marine injectors are to push massive fuel at high rpm. The factory injectors can push more fuel than your current build needs.

Give it a bit of looking to fine the relay thread. I suggest adding the switch like Leroy does it to assist primingvafter filter changes.

Fuel lines in stainless are best. Any flexible lines should be SAE30R9. 3/8” supply, 5/15” return. Most factory feed is 3/8” from tank through LP to filter. Then it reduces to 5/16. This is an error in design or possible cost savings in manufacturing. Having it go to the ip in 3/8 is best- this modification is known as ‘feed the beast’. Depending what liftpump and filter you are running determines which fittings you need. Picture of filter housing helps determination.

Something I forgot earlier, the belt drive should be repalaces at same time as balancer. If you invest the big money in the fluidampr, I suggest Leroy’s billet pulley. If not going to spend the big bucks, just get an AC Delco.
 
Will L. said:
Get the stock injectors from Leroy. Without doing a ton of hot rodding to an engine, marine injectors simply are not needed. Marine injectors are to push massive fuel at high rpm. The factory injectors can push more fuel than your current build needs.

Give it a bit of looking to fine the relay thread. I suggest adding the switch like Leroy does it to assist primingvafter filter changes.

Fuel lines in stainless are best. Any flexible lines should be SAE30R9. 3/8” supply, 5/15” return. Most factory feed is 3/8” from tank through LP to filter. Then it reduces to 5/16. This is an error in design or possible cost savings in manufacturing. Having it go to the ip in 3/8 is best- this modification is known as ‘feed the beast’. Depending what liftpump and filter you are running determines which fittings you need. Picture of filter housing helps determination.

Something I forgot earlier, the belt drive should be repalaces at same time as balancer. If you invest the big money in the fluidampr, I suggest Leroy’s billet pulley. If not going to spend the big bucks, just get an AC Delco.
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Figured on the AC Delco since this won't be a daily driver. Maybe 10k miles a year tops. Gotta work sometime! The belt is a no brainer plus it's shot. Looks pretty bad. All new hoses too.

Haven't found the LP harness diy thread. If anyone knows where to find it post a link. Can't believe this isn't a common diy project. Guess the plug n play is just too appealing and easy.
 
Will L. said:
Get the stock injectors from Leroy. Without doing a ton of hot rodding to an engine, marine injectors simply are not needed. Marine injectors are to push massive fuel at high rpm. The factory injectors can push more fuel than your current build needs.

Give it a bit of looking to fine the relay thread. I suggest adding the switch like Leroy does it to assist primingvafter filter changes.

Fuel lines in stainless are best. Any flexible lines should be SAE30R9. 3/8” supply, 5/15” return. Most factory feed is 3/8” from tank through LP to filter. Then it reduces to 5/16. This is an error in design or possible cost savings in manufacturing. Having it go to the ip in 3/8 is best- this modification is known as ‘feed the beast’. Depending what liftpump and filter you are running determines which fittings you need. Picture of filter housing helps determination.

Something I forgot earlier, the belt drive should be repalaces at same time as balancer. If you invest the big money in the fluidampr, I suggest Leroy’s billet pulley. If not going to spend the big bucks, just get an AC Delco.
Click to expand...
Found some SS tubing on eBay in 5/16 and 3/8. planning on Leroy LP Carter. Should I use Flair or compression fittings. I have a single flair tool or I have a boat load of compression fittings. I like compression but what do you think?
I have a million questions and I already highly respect your advice, so sorry if I'm pestering you.
 
Man, your in trouble if you like my advice! Everybody that answered before me are folks I trust more than myself btw.
Whatever fitting you like is what you will get best results from. Both hold WAY over the max pressure and vibration.
iirc The fitting into the ip is special- so order from Leroy.
 
Will L. said:
Man, your in trouble if you like my advice! Everybody that answered before me are folks I trust more than myself btw.
Whatever fitting you like is what you will get best results from. Both hold WAY over the max pressure and vibration.
iirc The fitting into the ip is special- so order from Leroy.
Click to expand...
You see its tidbits of information like that last fitting that makes your advice special. Thanks
 
If you are doing the water pump you may as well do the timing chain. Get The Leroy Diesel gear set to eliminate the sloppy chain. It's worth the coin as the chain stretches out rather quickly from the IP shock loads. 30K and it's sloppy. GM just made the 'slop' acceptable allowing a jaw dropping 0.8" of slop. Run a slop chain like that and watch the exhaust valve tips fatigue from hammering...

How much blowby did the 6.5 have? You are staring at the engine, now, so it's a simple process to replace the rings. Rings are not so much a wear item as overheating causes them to loose tension. No Tension means lots of blowby. Not only do high compression diesels (Ford 7.3, CAT, Etc.) suffer ring damage from going over 210, oh no, GM had to be extra special and crack heads and blocks from running hot. 210 you see mentioned above is the absolute redline you do not want to go over. Really "overhaul" and just do the rings with a cylinder deglaze. Check the cam bearings if you want to look for things, but, how was the summer hot oil pressure? Nothing else should need work and the rod bearings get an inspection when you do the rings.
 
SplitSsss said:
Which injectors should I get? I have read the marine injectors are a good bet. What is your opinion?
Click to expand...

X-2 on going with OE plugs. Or better yet, call Leroy and get a set from him.

I ran marines for a while and towed with them. They were Ok, but always belched a lot more at start-up compared to OE's. After I installed OE plugs from Leroy, the motor was a bit more responsive to throttle inputs.


SplitSsss said:
I'll be hauling my 1986 Suzuki Samurai . . .
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Neat jacked Samauri. Still original engine, or replaced it a time or five?
 
WarWagon said:
If you are doing the water pump you may as well do the timing chain. Get The Leroy Diesel gear set to eliminate the sloppy chain. It's worth the coin as the chain stretches out rather quickly from the IP shock loads. 30K and it's sloppy. GM just made the 'slop' acceptable allowing a jaw dropping 0.8" of slop. Run a slop chain like that and watch the exhaust valve tips fatigue from hammering...

How much blowby did the 6.5 have? You are staring at the engine, now, so it's a simple process to replace the rings. Rings are not so much a wear item as overheating causes them to loose tension. No Tension means lots of blowby. Not only do high compression diesels (Ford 7.3, CAT, Etc.) suffer ring damage from going over 210, oh no, GM had to be extra special and crack heads and blocks from running hot. 210 you see mentioned above is the absolute redline you do not want to go over. Really "overhaul" and just do the rings with a cylinder deglaze. Check the cam bearings if you want to look for things, but, how was the summer hot oil pressure? Nothing else should need work and the rod bearings get an inspection when you do the rings.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the insight. Engine ran cool this summer when I bought it. Had a compression test run on it pre purchase and it had all good numbers. Temps were normal but I never really put much load on the rig. Only thing I could find wrong was a very little oil weep on the turbo cross over and some around valve covers. Overall a pretty clean tight engine. I think fleet maintenance played a large roll in its life. At least that’s my hope.
Timing chain upgrade sounds like a real good idea. Thanks I should of thought of that. Timing chain at 100k on any engine is always a good idea. Thanks.
MrMarty51 said:
I love them G~Sheps.
Welcome to thetruckstop.
Click to expand...

This project is as much about the dogs as the toys! The “3 Stooges” are awesome travel buddies and a hell of a good security system!
JayTheCPA said:
X-2 on going with OE plugs. Or better yet, call Leroy and get a set from him.

I ran marines for a while and towed with them. They were Ok, but always belched a lot more at start-up compared to OE's. After I installed OE plugs from Leroy, the motor was a bit more responsive to throttle inputs.




Neat jacked Samauri. Still original engine, or replaced it a time or five?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. Contacted Leroy and new Bosch injectors are out of stock with no time frame for getting them in.
He can get me rebuilt Bosch injectors. Fortunately I can wait and see if he gets them ina month or two. Gonna use Leroy for a bunch of stuff on this build.
Got a stock Sami out of California with ZERO rot! 28k origanal miles.
Pulled motor and built it up with Weber carb mod, 9.1 to 1 pistons. Cam, header 2” exhust, ignition mods etc. Gages. Lifted it 7”. Flipped rims inside out and relocated vale stems. High back buckets. Tranny and transfer case hard parts to tighten shifter. Rock sliders are home made. Bikini top modified with snaps to eliminate straps. Gonna take it wheeling out west and
 
In its OE form with highway tires, it is sure-footed on off-road. Never rock-crawled with it, but did hit trails that had significant slope to them and it was impressive. Also went through deep muddy ruts with no troubles. One day a buddy grabbed his map of off-road trails in the mountains around him and even he was impressed as we went places that he would not take his Explorer. Again, all of this was with highway tires.

With that lift, light weight, and short wheelbase, might consider avoiding steep uneven surfaces until getting a solid feel of how it behaves.

And if not already noticed, it will flat-tow just fine.
 
My friend had one and it was impressive! Took his up ridiculous inclines. We did manage to tip her over on her side! I blame the beer!
I might tow it. I’ve got the set up for it. If I thought it would save fuel.
 
I also got the fuel pressure gauge fitting from Leroy and installed an in cab fuel pressure gauge. With His setup, harness and Carter pump, the truck runs at eleven pounds under heavy pulls.
 
SplitSsss said:
Hello,
I'm an experienced wrench but have very little diesel experience. I bought a 2000 Savana 3500 box truck originally gas powered. I also bought a 2001 Savana 6.5 diesel ambulance with no box. I have removed it's cab, removed engine, fuel system, HD 8 leaf rear end and most importantly it's wire harness.

The plan: The box truck's box was modified by the last owner. Insulated, windows added and tinted and a 120V a/c for camping. It came with one loading ramp and I picked up another one so I can drive my "Toys" into it and go camping! I'll post pics soon.

The box van has the box removed, fuel system removed, no drive train and I have swapped the rear end and all suspension components. I am currently putting in the diesel fuel tank. I plan on upgrading the lift pump and harness. I am considering the LEROY kit w/ Carter pump and harness to include the wait to start option.
I would like to make my own harness as $120 seems a bit high for relay plugs switches etc. I need a good diagram if anyone has one,BTW.

Planning on a Duramax clutch fan, 185 thermostat, high flow waterpump, all new injectors and glows. PMD was already relocated. Planning on a 40HP computer upgrade with some additional gauges. Basically the typical bomb proof stuff I see on the net. This truck will haul a good deal of weight in hot climbs.

So I have some questions.

1: The plastic fuel lines are too short and are labled do not repair. Should I just go with metal and rubber fuel lines? Thats what I was planning. if so any recomendations would be helpful.
2: Eliminate the vacuum pump or not? If I eliminate it what is the best way to control the waste gate? Anyone got pics?

Feel free to suggest other helpful mods. Keep in mind cross country towing with heavy loads in the box.

Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

Thanks for some great ideas. Now that you have a good idea of what I’m building and it’s usage, I’d like some feedback on which tuner upgrade would be best. Looks like I’ll have to have custom exhust since turbo is center mounted. Unless someone knows about an after market setup or kit.
 
Penisular diesel used to have one made, an S300/S400 hybrid that was nice, not quite as good as a properly sized hx 35/40 but close. I spoke to Dave of Unique Diesel the new owner of Peninsular and he is not selling them. It might be worth a call.
 
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