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replacement injector pump and a couple other questions

yes they are the same, at least they will interchange I highly doubt it is an engine issue and would look at fuel supply and IP first
 
"Test stand" ?? If your timing gears are ALL correct, you had identical problem with different ips. No compression or leak down check, what are you going to test outside the truck? Unless you take my occasional approach of "well since it is out anyways, a complete rebuild is in order." The compression test is to see if that is part of your hard start and general unhappy operation. Wet compression tells if it rings vs head. Somewhere engine oil is getting in your cylinders. That can make hard starting.

Is the timing cover from a db2 engine so it has the s ore mark for timing the db2?

You said you adjusted timing to help with start up and the blue(engine oil) smoke- was it a hard start but than ran good if timed correctly?
 
Have to see which tester. Diesel is higher than gas.

As for the adapter, can you weld or braze? Take an old glow plug - break off the ceramic end with a hammer where the wire connects. Drill out the inside of the ceramic area all the way through with body in a vice. Now all that is left is steel. Grab a steel fitting with a female end that fits the hose for the compression tester and weld or braze it on.

I lost one out of my kit, and did this in about 30 minutes.
image.jpgimage.jpg
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

That bell piece is just a 1/8" or 1/4" npt fitting I had on hand that matched the threads on my tester hose.
Think I goofed the order of pics, but you get the idea. Otherwise take a old glow plug with you to see if they have a correct adapter.
 
Here is from my note:

to adapt the HF Comp Tester to work in 6.5TD, needs:
- Copper 1/8" Pipe thread nipple 4" long
- F-to-F 1/8" Pipe thread union

I have not verified it because I have not needed to test the compression but I got this from here or the other forum.
 
A strong engine will have 400 lbs or more per cyl. IIRC they should be within 10% of each other.
 
pronghorntractorworks said:
ok, It will start with lots of GP. It smokes blue and runs rough until it warms up. the only way to get it to run halfway decent when it is cold, is to advance the timing to the point where it rattles like a powerstroke. It did that with the previous IP as well. I dont want to run that much advance. it has the lift pump that was in it when i bought it. I think it might be OEM. Wife officially hates the truck, but I am way too stubborn to let it go. Just need it to run.
Click to expand...

:WTF:
I don't know how I missed this thread. I suggest your timing/chain/gears are fine. I do not know how it happens but, maybe they aren't getting the 6.5 pumps right.

This sounds like MY truck with the $250 Conestoga "no warranty special" 6.2 turned up to a 6.5 pump I purchased. It runs vs. the no hot start head and rotor pump I pulled out. I have to advance the pump 1/4" or more to get a decent start and then have too much advance rattle at light throttle. A diesel shop here couldn't get it to time properly without lots of white smoke on start-up. (Even a hot start-up would smoke white.) It also breaks up at high RPM via a snap test.

Supposedly it was built before they bought out the shop, it was 'cheap', and the truck goes down the road. Idles like s#it but it runs. (Feels like a miss at non-smooth idle) Even passes emissions with B99. So I have been giving it and their reputation a 'free pass'.

For more power than a 6.2 pump can provide and getting my engine running like it should I have been looking for a good 6.5 pump. I was seriously thinking about having Conestoga build me a Moose pump with the smoke puff limiter added.
 
pronghorntractorworks said:
Great. Mine is showing 375. Anybody have a book for spec?
Click to expand...

Have not been able to find my books since I moved to the new homestead, but found this thread...


http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?11992-Compression-Test-Procedure

idk if his info is 100% but sounds mighty familiar.

On the no oil vs. use oil to do wet test thing- ALL gp's pulled the engine will not run on 1 cylinder. The oil squirted in is only a few drops in liquid form, not in a mist like coming from an injector. I have "wet" tested every single engine gas or diesel I ever ran a compression test on, hundreds of them diesels. Never once did I get a single cylinder to compress the liquid oil enough to flash off and try to start the engine. idk, maybe I have just been that lucky all these years, and the ol dudes that trained me, and the other guys in the shops I've worked with... Now, maybe, if some one tried it with oil in all cylinders at once, and gp's installed, maybe? If someone is worried about it, don't try it, just tear down complete instead of just a head job when it happens.
 
I appreciate everyone's input. So here is some weird stuff. After replacing the timing chain, I noticed the exh valve was closing when the stroke was only about 3/4 complete. I got a wild hair and decided to move the cam. long story short, it runs better now than it ever has.... will see what happens when i start it "cold" (about 80 tomorrow) will post more info about it tomorrow. off to bed now.
 
What timing set brand you using? Maybe they mis-marked some.
 
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