Rebuilding of a Truck Camper

[DieselCash]

You can also use KWIK-POLY for wood that isn't completely rotted out or in areas you need a filler. It is a very thin penetrating sealer/epoxy, and it sets up VERY quickly. I use it on boats in areas I don't feel like cutting open to replace rotten wood. I found out about it from my grandfather who uses it for restoring old wood. http://kwikpolyllc.com/

Thanks! That stuff looks pretty cool. :thumbsup:

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Thanks! That stuff looks pretty cool. :thumbsup:

It's some WICKED good stuff. It does take some getting used to as you don't have much working time if it's hot out.

 

[Will L.]

Fiberglass resin on wood is snazy as well. I never saw that stuff Ferm, i gotta check that out.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Fiberglass resin on wood is snazy as well. I never saw that stuff Ferm, i gotta check that out.

It's neat stuff. My grandfather uses it on model T wood spokes for the wheels to seal them and tighten them up in the rims, and also used it in some spots of the bodys where the wood is hard to get to but is rotting.

 

[DieselCash]

This is what I am using for the weather proofing of the wood. So far it seems to work well. It should outlast the camper considering it has a 12/25 warranty. Everyplace I will put this should be 100% covered by something else.

I removed the top portion of the outer trim last night. It was to dark to take a picture. It seems the rot goes all the way to the top up and down the outer corner.

I removed another section of siding. Have I mentioned how much I hate staples?

I started coating the generator compartment with my sealer. Here it is wet with the second coat. It "Might" rain here on Tuesday/Wednesday. I need to protect what wood I can.

I finally found out were the metal stops. The fun part will be getting it out.

I removed two more long side siding sections.


I finally got the metal corner section out. Like I stated above, more rot! :mad2:
You can also see the coating is dry on the one section. Hope this stuff works good.

Here is what it looks like underneath or behind were the metal was.

Not pretty, is it.

So far I have been lucky. No windows or the door has had to be taken off.
Might be done for a little while. The heat is finally catching up with me.
But, don't worry more to follow. :hello:

 

[DieselCash]

Well, today was very frustrating. I new my camper was in bad shape when I purchased it. I never had a clue or even an idea it was going to turn out so bad. Fixing it is the easy part. Fixing it in time to use labor day weekend is know out of the question. I am now contemplating how I want to fix the outer support beam. There is two ways I can do it. Cut were the wood is good and use metal to support it. Our keep digging all the way to the top. What do y'all say?
This picture is more for me. Just using it to remember to use some screws.

This is me measuring the beam, if you can even call it that. It measures 1 1/2" X 1 1/2". From what I am seeing that is a 2" X 2". Am I correct?


It has an extra piece of metal from the main support to the next inner board. Smart move, I will add even more.

Here is a picture of the curb side outer corner. The wood toward the corner is in ruff shape. I think I will use a L bracket and not replace it. We will see.

Here is another angle of the rot. I scraped out some of it.

This will probably be all for this weekend. Next weekend will be cut short. I am taking the hunters safety course.

 

[DieselCash]

Well I think the suspense was killing me. I sneaked out of work and tore back into the camper. I pulled all the screws holding on the door on the top, right, and bottom. I did this to peal it back so I could get to more staples, easier. I then pulled off the two short/small siding pieces.

When I pulled the door back I found more. Yep, you guessed it. ROT!!!


To get the siding off that wraps around the bottom of the window. I had to loosen up the window. It is only held on with a couple of screws. I only pulled of the screws that went down the sides and across the bottom.

I then pulled the siding off. It looks like the rot might be coming to and end. On the beam on the outer corner.



I then pulled the next up outer corner siding off. I finally gave myself some good news. It appears to have no more rot.


I will peal up our out the outer corner up the back corner to ensure there is no more rot.
Rebuilding should start this weekend. I need to get the beam back in first. I plan on supporting it with aluminum L bracket.
I also noticed this outer beam goes all the way down to the bottom of the bumper.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Thanks for all the nice photos Marty! Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:
You can rebuild it. Stronger, better, nicer!

 

[NVW]

Nice work Marty, I don't know if I would have the desire to do that.

 

[DieselCash]

Thanks for all the nice photos Marty! Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:
You can rebuild it. Stronger, better, nicer!

Thanks! :thumbsup:

Nice work Marty, I don't know if I would have the desire to do that.

This has and will be very frustrating to say the least. It is not that I have a desire to continue. It is the fact that I have more into this than what I could have gotten out of it if I was to sale it. I have no intention on putting this up to sale thou. When I get done with this corner it will be stronger than it was from the factory.

Stating what I said above. I hope to help either someone else rebuild there truck camper. Our convince them to get a all aluminum framed camper.

Thanks!

 

[btfarm]

To replace the 2x2s or any of the dimensional lumber I would recommend making the parts from well seasoned CCA treated wood. I never throw those old boards away. I just cut em to size and use for repairs that are replacing rotted stuff.

 

[DieselCash]

To replace the 2x2s or any of the dimensional lumber I would recommend making the parts from well seasoned CCA treated wood. I never throw those old boards away. I just cut em to size and use for repairs that are replacing rotted stuff.

How would I get well seasoned boards?

Purchase new and leave outside for a week?

I was planning on using treated wood and sealing it up.

 

[btfarm]

Treated wood is wet when green and twists like crazy as it dries. Seasoned means already weathered a year and dry. I don't know where you find that. I hear the AC2 stuff doesn't move as much as CCA. I'm spoiled since I have a fully equipped wood shop for when I need it and can make lumber to size and shape. I wish I was close to you and could do that part for you Marty. Your local lumber guy might be able to send you in the right direction.

 

[DieselCash]

All the wood I have removed that did not crumble to pieces I have kept.

 

[ak diesel driver]

if you buy your board from HD or Lowes they keep it inside and is usually pretty dry. It doesn't come out of the manf plant wet it just gets wet during shipping (sitting around outside) and acts like a big sponge. I actually prefer to work with it damp as it's hard and brittle when dry. Generally speaking if you can get it in position and nailed/fastened it won't move to much. Beware of knots as those will be where it warps/twists the most.

 

[DieselCash]

if you buy your board from HD or Lowes they keep it inside and is usually pretty dry. It doesn't come out of the manf plant wet it just gets wet during shipping (sitting around outside) and acts like a big sponge. I actually prefer to work with it damp as it's hard and brittle when dry. Generally speaking if you can get it in position and nailed/fastened it won't move to much. Beware of knots as those will be where it warps/twists the most.

Yes, I will get everything from home depot.

Thanks! :thumbsup:

 

[ak diesel driver]

one other thing about treated wood, at least around here, it comes in 2 different colors. Green , which is always perforated, is rated for buried or below ground. red, which you can get perforated or not, is rated for ground contact. the green obviously is the more rot resistant. you can also get brush on coating for when you cut it to seal up the cuts which is color matched to the product (red vs green)

 

[DieselCash]

one other thing about treated wood, at least around here, it comes in 2 different colors. Green , which is always perforated, is rated for buried or below ground. red, which you can get perforated or not, is rated for ground contact. the green obviously is the more rot resistant. you can also get brush on coating for when you cut it to seal up the cuts which is color matched to the product (red vs green)

When you state green. Here the wood has a green, almost like a mold splotches on the outer surface. Is this what you are talking about?

Thanks for all your help AK! :thumbsup:

 

[btfarm]

EPA regulations in the Midwest has eliminated green (CCA) that has arsenic in it and was best for burial and replaced it with AC2 which is a more brown color. It is probably what you will find by you Marty. It's probably the best for this application if dryed CCA isn't possible.

Sent from my SCH-I535

 

[DieselSlug]

Wow, that rot has settled in for a while. Glad it held together for you to get it home. Definitely tuned in.