• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Rebuild for a performance oriented 6.5

Look on the bright side Leroy. If this cam works out and he actually starts selling them to the 6.5 crowd, you can start making offset keys to sell along with your gear drive! So in other words, you're welcome[emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Have you ever weighed your truck to see how much that alone weighs?
No, I never have. I weighed my extended cab long bed 2500hd duramax when I owned it years ago and I think it came in at 7800 or 7900 lbs. So with the lighter duty drivetrain/frame but also longer frame/cab and dual wheels, maybe somewhere around there? But I really have no idea.
 
Well sh*t. I borrowed Nate's solid lifters and got it all bolted down to check the stock rockers again....and it hits. Right before the intake valve closes, the piston hits it. So now we're back to square one. Going to talk with R&D and see what options we have on the cam. Would hate to scrap the cam as a failed test, but I guess we'll see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My mistake. I did the opposite head since the other one was already bolted down. It's the exhaust valve that is hitting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Way better to know now. If you ran it without trying this out it would have hit and you'd be wondering what went wrong. Plus the $.
 
What did you set the centerline to ? Are these the same specs from the website ?
 
That does suck but glad you found it the easy way using a "solid lifter" (ok Husker I left myself open:) )
 
What did you set the centerline to ? Are these the same specs from the website ?

Icl spec was 110-112. I was at ~111.5.

I could try putting another 2* offset key in and see what that does, but I don't know if that will be enough to clear, especially if I try to run my 1.6 rockers.
 
I guess I could try thicker head gaskets and another key.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah but the thicker gaskets are only .010" more thickness. If I recall correctly .090" is the safe clearance. I had safe clearances and I still had light piston to valve contact (I still don't know why). This sucks. Sorry to hear this.
 
New found issue that I don't really get at the moment: I put the cam back to stock (lined the timing marks up) and bolted the head down to recheck everything and the valves still hit. Now, keep in mind, it's a regrind, so one would assume that the valves should be closing slightly quicker since material was taken off. So I stuck my dial indicator on the two valves that I have the solid lifters in, and when I tighten down the rocker arm, it pushes the valves open .075". The only thing I can think of is there was a crapload of material taken off of the block and heads. He told me how much he took off, I don't remember exact numbers, but I didn't think it was very much. And then he offset the rod bushings to make up for the material taken out. So unless he mistakenly did something wrong, what else could it be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Duh, I guess offset rods won't fix the pushrod being too long for the shortened block and head....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top